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so the joy brought by the paperclip trick was short lived. on long drives, the problem eventually resurfaces but this still tells me i am on the right track to
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#11 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 428
Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6
Rep Power: 140 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
so the joy brought by the paperclip trick was short lived. on long drives, the problem eventually resurfaces but this still tells me i am on the right track to solving this issue.
i removed the paperclip and refitted the cruise control brake switch and also the brake light switch. i read further into the issue in the FSM and there's a section that basically states the cruise control switch must be depressed first, which then switches on the brake light switch circuit. Sounds bizarre and far too complex for a simple system to be honest. But anyway, with that in mind i set out to adjust the two switches so the cruise switch trips first. Remember that this is a normally open switch (open circuit when not depressed). i took it for a drive last night and the f**king issue came up again!! my mind is now focussed on the soft plastic grommets/button pad things on the brake pedal which press on the switches' plungers. since it's winter here (a much colder winter than last) i usually have the heater on max with the air directed at my face and feet. I'd like to also mention here that my heater never felt effective. It was either super hot or luke warm... until i recently did the throttle body coolant bypass mod (complete removal of all associated rubber hoses) which seemed to restore function to the temperature modulation function. My new theory is that the heater aimed at my feet is heating up the plastic grommets to the point where they become pliable enough to allow the switches' plungers to deform the grommet and create a false pedal-depressed situation. Extreme view, but i'm losing my head over this issue |
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