He got tuned for 91 and E85.

yes, and no real lope the vvel makes it idle pretty much the exact same as before.

That's kind of a bummer... A little lope is never a bad thing!

eh you should hear it scream at 8200rpm though.

Is the car still at Sebs? Maybe I will go take it for a ride... :stirthepot:

I'm watchin you (squint)

i am sure your overall mod list is crazy and $$$

Wondering if there were certain parts other than the main bolt-ons (CBE, LTHs, etc.) that seemed to be the best for some gains without going completely crazy.

You mentioned head gaskets as something to do along with the cams, do they make enough of difference to make that combo worth it?

Just checked in with Seb he is out playing around with it dialing in the throttles.

if yours are blown yes, my gaskets had to get replaced so I had the cams done while it was open. I'm very much a break it and build it better kind of guy. The main ones for power were in order pretty much the intake setup, the drysump, the cams, the headers. Once you start pushing it NA everything needs to be balanced, like the manifold lost peak power (picked up 13 in the midrange) until we put the cams and headers on and then it made more because the exhaust couldn't keep up. At this point it is kind of a package deal.

Here is a teaser before I make a thread for it.

:bowrofl: wow...first of a kinda.

Sorry I meant this one :bowdown:

Eh?

looks like you got the gt-r manifold, I didn't even know they ever finished that.

The gtr manifold it is not

all custom then?

It will be in the thread all the stuff on my car will go into production.

That manifold looks like it wants to be made out of CF....very nice 1slowZ did you fab those yourself?

It will be in the thread but no it is a modified GTM ITB setup to work with the factory throttles. When/if I go stand alone it will be ITB's

At first glance, it looked similar to the gt-r one so I thought maybe ti was a custom based off of the gt-r manifold.
So everything is going into production ...by GTM? I have mixed feelings on that, haha.

Well it works so im happy, the gtr setup was cheaper but I opted to go this route and have them prototype it.

not bad !

something looks weird with the graph 5800+
Im sure there could be a smoother power line going up to your peak power
might be the vvel tune with side effect from ign timing and/or the knock control if your ROM allow it.
or it is just a side effect from the intake pulse paired with your exhaust...

great power early on but taper off around that 5800-6000 if we go with a normal power delivery with a 7500rpm , there is only a max of 340whp which is 54whp more than your baseline using pump gas as a normal baseline for the majority of the guys on here.
but since you make quite a bit more power up to 8200.

Im sure there is still quite a bit to be gained from 6000 to 8000
keep up the good work :)

hey it's my intake :p

The 6-8000 area is rough thanks to the timing and a bit of a harmonic issue, but it isn't low for how it's setup, it just looks that way due to the spike at 5800, don't know how that happened but for some reason right there it really wants to make torque. The dip from 45-5500 is entirely ignition timing.

Yeah before I went 3"

again i dont think it will matter that much. does it change things? sure. will you lose or gain a crap load of time in a 50-100? no you wont. unless you go off of your speedo that's now going to read different and incorrectly. this is no different than me changing the gearing on my race bike or stunt bike. 60mph on the highway read 110mph on my speedo on the stunt bike. so yeah!! gearing was huge showing 50-100. took like 0.01 seconds. but thats false. with other race bikes on the track with different gearing, its not like i was walking away from them that fast! but thats why for bikes we bought a little device that plugged into the oem speed sensor and we would put our new gearing into and the speedo would fix itself. only way for you now to really show a perfect 50-100 is by radar. but since its not like you put a 60 tooth rear sprocket on your car im not that worried it will be crazy faster or slower.

wtf am i looking at? thats the scariest NA graph ive ever seen!!

and wouldnt you know it, STD.

It will read slower due to the lower gearing, thats the whole point of swaping to 4.08's is it changes your acceleration, and no you're wrong gearing on the 370 does not effect the speedo if you didnt change tire size.

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So yeah nice long post but its all wrong

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yes i know its lower but you will also not have to shift at 99 like some do with a oem redline. like ive been saying. i dont think it will matter "that" much when talking gearing. id guess a 1/10th if that. i think it will all come down to power which i why im eager to see it. if you didnt change tires then you're right, the speedos at the diff.

What do you want 3rd gear or second to 3rd gear?

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Either way if ypu doubt the power i made your fighting an exercise in futility i put down 60 more hp than multiple cars with full boltons on sebs dyno, there have been quite a few z's through his door and my nubers completely eclipse them.

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so where is the build thread :excited:

looking awesome, but.... why not moar RPM? One of the perks of the dry sump is no more exploding oil pumps! that graph says there is more left on the table.

Holy crap -- that's incredible!

Not that I am in any way trying to diminish how awesome those gains are, but I am curious as to (1) SAE numbers and the actual correction value for both SAE and STD (2) the ambient conditions.

I like to go by lower bound values, and SAE tends to be more stingy -- even then, I'm guessing it's still around 365 (which is phenomenal!) but please let me know.

Also, I wonder if tuned for 93 it would be right about where you are with e85 -- did you say you had a 92 tune? I could see me going for the IM depending on price, but I'll probably stick with regular petrol.

That manifold is very impressive -- I'm very eager to learn more about the various mods and the expected cost for production pieces.

What was the cost for the dry sump??? Those are generally pretty pricey upgrades.

BTW, FWIW, I estimate you are making something unreal like 429 hp to the crank -- nearly 100 more than stock, which is insane!

With the dry sump. Where did you put the oil tank?

I decided not to open up the block yet, so for higher rpm reliability the block would need to get stronger rod bolts, valvesprings, and preferably a billet crank or a custom tune on the ati dampener

the trunk

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my SAE 309 rwhp = 326 Hp when converted. to actual or HP on the dyno chart.
My elevation was 286 ft.
For me to run a 12.34 @114.4 ,according to the weight to rwhp my car has to make 345 to 347 RWHP. The elevation of the track is 550 ft.
But I believe that 304 RWHP on the dyno jet is the real # as my base line was 264.
I feel that some of these #'s that people post are way out of line.
It s real hard to make 40 RWHP on full bolt ons

Z

It's a thing of beauty

Can't wait to see the build thread and pictures!!