Review: RJM AFP Clutch Pedal System

Ryan @ RJM

DoomMonkey, Yes this mechanism both locks the sliding track for adjusting the clutch rod angle and allows setting the exact side-tension required on the main bearings to reduce any side-side play in the pedal arm. Its worked flawlessly for 3 years now in multiple product designs without any issues of loosing height adjustment.
Now when you tightened these bolts did you follow the Install Guide Specific Procedure for Tightening these bolts or did you just crank them down tight without regard for the tension setting procedure? These bolts can absolutely lock the pedal arm bearings solid if you don't follow procedure which is what I suspect you where doing while bench testing.

The sliding track plates have so much surface area spread over 6 friction surfaces they act much like a quadruple plate clutch... where very little pressure plate force is required to generate a large holding capacity. Similarly the bracket needs very little bolt tension to result in a very large holding force on those plates, so much in fact these plates are already too stiff to move by hand by a 1/4 turn past where the lock washers are just compressed and then you still have several more turns before the bearings start to tighten up.

Finally once installed and set correctly the paint on the bearing surfaces will wear off and the bearings will break in after a day or two of driving to make them slightly looser yet after install.

So I have no worries that it'll function flawlessly once installed following the guide instructions.

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Home of the A.F.P. Upgraded Clutch Pedal System. Smoother Launches, Smoother Shifts & Improved Clutch Control Like No Other Pedal Mod You've Experianced Before Guaranteed!
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DOOMMONKEY777

Ok i understand, well i had to ask because i tightened the bolts using a socket in order to gab the bolt and my hand fingers to torque it down as tight as i could and tried the pedal it was stuck the spring couldn't bring it back up, this is where i stopped the installation thinking it might be defective also in my mind knowing that the clutch would apply extra pressure to the pedal in order to bring it back, caused me to think about how much torque to apply vs pedal position vs pedal return.

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Kids don't do Drugs, Drugs are bad, so let the professional druggies do Drugs for you. 537whp/496lb/tq@8-9PSI 93 octane

McLovin2010

did the installation and followed the instructions, did the adjustment but my clutch rod had maybe a 1/4 turn available the lock nut would bottom out the fork so the threads couldn't turn, testing first is beautiful but upon leaving the shop and hitting the road if I give any moderate gas I get no power in return/ clutch slipping, I figure this is my throw out bearing not completely releasing? what do I need to adjust or fix in the fork/clutch rod. abs and trac control light kicked on probably telling me this as well its at home and need some info on what needs adjusted.

Ryan @ RJM

McLovin,

Thanks for the email/post and I’m sorry to hear you’re having some issues. I work a full time day job in addition to running RJM evenings/weekends building these assemblies for customers in my spare time, so I’m sorry for just getting back now.

My first thought is something doesn’t sound right about your installation and I’m wondering if you installed the two white plastic firewall spacers?

If you have the AFP at 70% recommended setting and the clevis screwed completely in then your engagement should be right down at the floor or not even be able to get into gear let alone be still pushing on the throw out bearing.
The RJM pedal design unlike the factory pedal can in no way push on your throwout bearing causing slipping when the pedal is released full up and master cylinder fully returned.

The factory assembly is like a compound bow where if you push a little ways it snaps down and stays there, that is what causes slippage with the factory pedal however the RJM pedal is a linear return spring and always trying to release the TOB no matter where you are in pedal travel.

There are only two ways the RJM pedal could hold your master cylinder down and both would present an obvious problem during install or have to be done against the instgructions. The first would be to turn the clutch rod fully out (extends the fork) while simultaneously adjusting the upper switch down tighter. This would push the master cylinder rod down and would partially engage the TOB against the clutch if done to the extreme. However you’ve indicated you turned the clutch rod fully in (shortening it) which would lower your pedal making this very unlikely.

Secondly would be leaving out the white spacers which would make the entire bracket move closer to the firewall then it was designed for. This condition would artificially make the clutch rod seem way too long and you’d likely have to push the MC rod down to even get the clevis pin to line up thru the arm and the pedal would be Extremely High.

Can you give me more details about what you did during the install?

Right now if the clutch is truly slipping under power (RPMS spike or bounce off the rev limiter when the clutch lets go) then it may be your clutch, not the pedal at all and only coincidence your now noticing it today. The ABS and TCS lights being on when it happens are interesting as I don’t think the car would care if the engine reved without moving as the ECU isn’t looking for clutch slip or it would come on every time you slipped the clutch too much taking off or rev matching a downshift.

Are you sure you weren’t actually spinning a wheel when it was happening causing the TCS to rightfully engage and taking away your throttle control while it stopped the wheel spin?

Let me know your thoughts.

Ryan Morgan
RJM Performance Inc.

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Home of the A.F.P. Upgraded Clutch Pedal System. Smoother Launches, Smoother Shifts & Improved Clutch Control Like No Other Pedal Mod You've Experianced Before Guaranteed!
Visit www.RJMPerformance.com or Email Ryan@RJMPerformance.com Also Don't Forget to Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/RJM-Performance

Teddy KGB

Installed my pedal today, (and a little work last night). Love it! Much smoother engagement than stock. I set it at 70 percent and left the three bolt connection right in the middle. Travel and engagement are right where I want it. That being said, if I ever have to work in my footwell again I may just drive the car off a cliff. My back is wrecked. Lol

Ryan, excellent job! You ought to market them to Nissan as to what actually NEEDS to be in this car from the factory.


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Ryan @ RJM

Teddy KGB I'm very happy to hear your install went well and you're enjoying the new pedal system I know what you mean about working in the foot well of the Z, the tight working space is the worst part of this install but I think the increased enjoyment of the vehicle afterwards makes it all worth it
It's funny you should say that, I've spoken to a few guys who work as Engineers for Nissan and they've purposely made the G/Z's feel the way they do so I don't see them changing ways any time soon... Which is good for me lol

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Home of the A.F.P. Upgraded Clutch Pedal System. Smoother Launches, Smoother Shifts & Improved Clutch Control Like No Other Pedal Mod You've Experianced Before Guaranteed!
Visit www.RJMPerformance.com or Email Ryan@RJMPerformance.com Also Don't Forget to Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/RJM-Performance

Skyscraper

Installed my kit yesterday. As others have said, other than the work-space, installation is very straightforward. Took me maybe 2.5 hours at a very relaxed pace. I still need to spend some time playing with my settings to get it exactly to my liking, but my shifts while moving are extremely smooth now. For some reason my pedal is not fully returning when my foot is off the pedal. For me the overall pedal feel is a bit mushy. I am convinced this is due to me not having dialed in the settings to my liking yet. Sent an e-mail to Ryan to get some guidance with my pedal travel and set up.

Ryan @ RJM

Skycraper, email replied to
Short version - The issues with the pedal not returning and poor/mushy feel you're having are almost certainly due to the side tension bolts being over torqued causing the main bearings to be pinched and binding them up. See my long winded email for the play by play of how to get it better dialed in.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

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Home of the A.F.P. Upgraded Clutch Pedal System. Smoother Launches, Smoother Shifts & Improved Clutch Control Like No Other Pedal Mod You've Experianced Before Guaranteed!
Visit www.RJMPerformance.com or Email Ryan@RJMPerformance.com Also Don't Forget to Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/RJM-Performance

Skyscraper

Muchos Gracias! She's driving like butter!

Ryan @ RJM

Awesome! I'm glad to hear that got it all cleared up for you

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Home of the A.F.P. Upgraded Clutch Pedal System. Smoother Launches, Smoother Shifts & Improved Clutch Control Like No Other Pedal Mod You've Experianced Before Guaranteed!
Visit www.RJMPerformance.com or Email Ryan@RJMPerformance.com Also Don't Forget to Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/RJM-Performance

dguth66

Hey guys
I'm going to order one up very soon

Since I've got a bad back to start with...going to unhook the batt and remove the seat for easier beer drinking too

Camo500EFI

This MOD is on my short list for sure but I was just wondering what if any issues this change might have on warranty coverage if any.

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2014 370Z NISMO #0518 Gun Metal

wsarver

This is a question I have as well. I've had mine in the closet for months because I'm not sure if the dealer would try and pin anything on me for having a different clutch pedal. Would the CSC not be covered under warranty with a different pedal? What about clutch issues leading into transmission issues?
Edit: I believe I'd be out of warranty anyways given my z is an '09 with 55k miles but just to be safe I've been holding off.

Ryan @ RJM

Camo500EFI,
As with any mod the dealership can make a fuss IF they feel the part is directly associated with a failure, however they can not by law deny a warranty claim for unrelated items. Example if you pop a motor they can't blame a clutch pedal, stereo system, new mufflers, etc. They have to be able to prove the part directly caused the failure for which they are denying warranty coverage. By the same token a guy with an 800hp built block and twin turbo's can't be denied warrenty for having a "Modded Car" if say his window motor failed or some other misc thing happens.

Now most dealerships won't even notice the pedal change unless they crawl up under your dash looking for it. Secondly IF for any reason you felt you had a transmission issue that needed service or warranty replacement you can 100% put the car back to stock with the factory pedal assembly in about an hour before taking it in for major trans work. The RJM install make zero permanent changes to the car and can be put back to stock quite simply.

Finally with the reduced or eliminated risk of OEM CSC failure when using my product you're about 100x less likely to need CSC service in or out of warranty for it.

The direct reduction of excess fluid flow to the CSC with my product reduces the stress on the OEM or aftermarket CSC's and takes away the risk of over stroking which pops the seals. This is the failure mode seen most in all factory CSC's as they get stoked too far, over extend the piston and blow the seals out spraying clutch fluid into the bellhousing along with your pedal dropping to the floor.

Couple that with smoother and more controlled shifting should lead to a long and happy life for your transmission/synchros as long as it isn't abused in other ways.

Also in the past 3.5 years since first releasing the 370Z version of my product I've not had a single customer report a CSC failure since the installation of my product and I had one customer who'd replaced 3 of them under warranty in about a 6 month period prior to getting my pedal installed... been good ever since.

So anyone on the fence due to CSC issues and possible warranty issues should absolutely consider installing one as it's far more likely it'll save you major warranty work in future rather then cause it. Also just FYI the factory clutch, flywheel and pressure plate are all considered "wear items" and are not covered under any warranty coverage unless its an exceptional case like failure in the fist 500 miles etc. Only the CSC and transmission behind them are covered under powertrain.

Hope that helps!

Ryan Morgan
RJM Performance Inc.

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Home of the A.F.P. Upgraded Clutch Pedal System. Smoother Launches, Smoother Shifts & Improved Clutch Control Like No Other Pedal Mod You've Experianced Before Guaranteed!
Visit www.RJMPerformance.com or Email Ryan@RJMPerformance.com Also Don't Forget to Like us on Facebook www.facebook.com/RJM-Performance

Crypto2k

If you're doing it right, this is a good compliment/extension of your non-warranted after market CSC. I'd be curious to hear personal experience around warranty but both changes are woth their potential impact in my book. Yes I have both but am out of warranty in about 100 ways, so it wasn't a concern. ;-)