Review: RJM AFP Clutch Pedal System

McLovin2010

did the installation and followed the instructions, did the adjustment but my clutch rod had maybe a 1/4 turn available the lock nut would bottom out the fork so the threads couldn't turn, testing first is beautiful but upon leaving the shop and hitting the road if I give any moderate gas I get no power in return/ clutch slipping, I figure this is my throw out bearing not completely releasing? what do I need to adjust or fix in the fork/clutch rod. abs and trac control light kicked on probably telling me this as well its at home and need some info on what needs adjusted.

Ryan @ RJM

McLovin,

Thanks for the email/post and I’m sorry to hear you’re having some issues. I work a full time day job in addition to running RJM evenings/weekends building these assemblies for customers in my spare time, so I’m sorry for just getting back now.

My first thought is something doesn’t sound right about your installation and I’m wondering if you installed the two white plastic firewall spacers?

If you have the AFP at 70% recommended setting and the clevis screwed completely in then your engagement should be right down at the floor or not even be able to get into gear let alone be still pushing on the throw out bearing.
The RJM pedal design unlike the factory pedal can in no way push on your throwout bearing causing slipping when the pedal is released full up and master cylinder fully returned.

The factory assembly is like a compound bow where if you push a little ways it snaps down and stays there, that is what causes slippage with the factory pedal however the RJM pedal is a linear return spring and always trying to release the TOB no matter where you are in pedal travel.

There are only two ways the RJM pedal could hold your master cylinder down and both would present an obvious problem during install or have to be done against the instgructions. The first would be to turn the clutch rod fully out (extends the fork) while simultaneously adjusting the upper switch down tighter. This would push the master cylinder rod down and would partially engage the TOB against the clutch if done to the extreme. However you’ve indicated you turned the clutch rod fully in (shortening it) which would lower your pedal making this very unlikely.

Secondly would be leaving out the white spacers which would make the entire bracket move closer to the firewall then it was designed for. This condition would artificially make the clutch rod seem way too long and you’d likely have to push the MC rod down to even get the clevis pin to line up thru the arm and the pedal would be Extremely High.

Can you give me more details about what you did during the install?

Right now if the clutch is truly slipping under power (RPMS spike or bounce off the rev limiter when the clutch lets go) then it may be your clutch, not the pedal at all and only coincidence your now noticing it today. The ABS and TCS lights being on when it happens are interesting as I don’t think the car would care if the engine reved without moving as the ECU isn’t looking for clutch slip or it would come on every time you slipped the clutch too much taking off or rev matching a downshift.

Are you sure you weren’t actually spinning a wheel when it was happening causing the TCS to rightfully engage and taking away your throttle control while it stopped the wheel spin?

Let me know your thoughts.

Ryan Morgan
RJM Performance Inc.

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