Nissan Motorsports Oil Coolers

Mt Tam I am · 09-23-2010, 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh@STILLEN

We charge 2hrs labor.. no reason a dealership or anyone would quote higher than that.. there's nothing special about the Nissan oil cooler, outside of it's high cost. It's also not a warrantied item under the factory warranty, but a lot of dealers will treat the install with comfort in mind, just as they do with STILLEN products. Everything I've seen about the Nissan kit is a large SETRAB cooler and lines, seems like a quality kit, at a price premium.

If you mean they are telling you the side fenders literally need to be removed, that would be cause for concern. If they are working on replacing the engine, a lot will be removed already, but even if they didn't reduce the hourly time, 8 hours would literally be a tech working on installing just the oil cooler for the entire day.. you can do the math.

Thank you for your lightening quick response. To appease me for an earlier mishap, we made a deal, I pay $780 MSRP for oil cooler he installs it at his cost. So why is he giving me all this rigamarole? I do not know.

ChrisSlicks · 09-23-2010, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mt Tam I am

I just spoke with the dealership which is now installing my new short block with a Nissan oil cooler Part Number: 21300-SS370. What is the install time on the oil cooler? The dealership just said that it is 8 hours and the fenders need to come off. Remember they already have the whole engine torn apart anyway. This seems so excessive. I was quoted 4 hours before the short block had to be replaced.

This oil cooler installs in the exact same way that all the others do. The nose comes off and it is installed in front of the radiator, adapter plate is installed on the oil filter fitting and lines are snaked through. It took me 2 hours to install mine and I was doing it on the ground with jack stands, and that is including removing the bumper and reinstalling it. They are already going to have the whole front end removed, bumper, radiator etc. to get the engine out so if it takes them more than 1 extra hour I would be amazed. I can understand them wanting to charge 2, but 4 is excessive and 8 is just stupid. Why on earth they would want to remove the fenders I have no idea, and I would be a little concerned if they know what they are doing. Maybe they are just trying to make it sound harder than it is so you'll think you're getting a deal?

SoCal 370Z · 09-23-2010, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mt Tam I am

I just spoke with the dealership which is now installing my new short block with a Nissan oil cooler Part Number: 21300-SS370. What is the install time on the oil cooler? The dealership just said that it is 8 hours and the fenders need to come off. Remember they already have the whole engine torn apart anyway. This seems so excessive. I was quoted 4 hours before the short block had to be replaced.

Here's a link that actually show the factory kit parts: Nissan Motorsports Oil Cooler vs. Stillen Oil Cooler

Mt Tam I am · 09-23-2010, 10:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoCal 370Z

Here's a link that actually show the factory kit parts: Nissan Motorsports Oil Cooler vs. Stillen Oil Cooler

Thank you. Very informative. I feel I am the dealerships first 370 oil cooler and first short block replacement.

RE: oil cooler oil draining. Is it possible to tip car using jacks to effectively use gravity in draining?

spearfish25 · 09-23-2010, 07:15 AM

With a premade kit that is designed to fit, you could have it installed in under 2 hours. Especially with a lift. I made mine from scratch which required making a bracket mid-process and it took MAX 4 hours from front fascia off to front fascia back on.

Hell, you could get the Stillen SC installed in 8 hours.

Zeze · 09-23-2010, 01:59 PM

Quick (perhaps stupid) question: the considerably large oil cooler being placed right in front of the radiator, would the radiator cooling performance be affected? Or is the radiator like something that's been over-designed and there's no need to worry?

ChrisSlicks · 09-23-2010, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeze

Quick (perhaps stupid) question: the considerably large oil cooler being placed right in front of the radiator, would the radiator cooling performance be affected? Or is the radiator like something that's been over-designed and there's no need to worry?

The water cooling system seems to have plenty of excess capacity, large oil coolers don't seem to have much of an effect on water temp.

Zeze · 09-24-2010, 12:02 AM

Mmm. I see. Thanks!

Z2nv · 12-07-2010, 06:50 PM

Fenders removed? I just put in a short block and nissan factory cooler on an 2009 we charged the guy 3 hours+oil/filter+shop supplies.. The short block was under warranty so our dealership covered that. My short blocks on order right now, my z's consuming a litre per every 1500 km's. I didnt have to remove any fenders, just the front bumper.
As per the warranty on the nissan cooler, we wont cover any issues that might be caused by the oil cooller failing. Siezed motor because oil cooler failed, youll have a tough time getting them to warranty it.

BrandonT · 05-08-2011, 12:46 PM

I'm looking at getting one of these oil coolers on my new Z and have a couple questions. Leaving a bunch of oil in a cooler during an oil change does not appeal to me (fittings up), nor does having to fill an empty cooler on startup (fittings down). Would it be possible to mount these on their side, than add a three way fitting to the upper and lower fitting, so you can drain from the lower one and fill to the upper one (by taking a cap off the third nipple on the three way)?

Also how does the GTM unit compare as far as using OEM filter? Or better yet the Puralator PureOne since that is what I will be using? Which of these kits has the the thermostatic valve built in to the adaptor plate, all of them?

SPOHN · 05-08-2011, 12:52 PM

There's nothing wrong with with upright or facing down. But the other method your speaking off could be had, but I see no reason at all to such a thing. I'd do some more searching if I were you.

BrandonT · 05-08-2011, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

There's nothing wrong with with upright or facing down. But the other method your speaking off could be had, but I see no reason at all to such a thing. I'd do some more searching if I were you.

I agree that if you personally don't see an issue with either up or down facing nipples, than you will also see no reason for side mounting. But for those of us who do have issue with the previous methods, what is wrong with what I'm proposing? You could also route both hoses up similar to the upright mounting (proposed as safer by some). The only issue I see is adding additional points for leaks, and I'm not sure that these type of connectors even have caps available.

SPOHN · 05-08-2011, 02:09 PM

To me it would be easier to mount upright and just remove for each oil change. To do what your saying there's a good chance you'd have to remove the front clip anyways. Which wouldn't add to much time to do. Small price to ensure all is well. Funny how some people are such in a rush to do maintence on a car. Take the time it needs. I'm not saying that about you. Just in general.

BrandonT · 05-08-2011, 03:02 PM

Haven't done my first oil change yet (just bought it) so yeah it could be tight, I haven't looked. Good point. Maybe a drain line off the lower fitting? An upper fill hose may add too much complication (or maybe not). If you didn't use it you would still have the disadvantage of the down mount fittings in having to fill the cooler on startup after an oil change, starving the engine for a bit longer. On the other hand it would automatically air purge the cooler similar to a top mount fitting. I don't think people take the air pocket issue as seriously as they should. This is always an issue with exchangers, many industrial exchangers have vents or "burp" lines just to alleviate the problem.

kenyonscs · 05-09-2011, 04:45 PM

Hi everyone,

I'm new to this forum and find this to be a wonderful site for the ins and outs of the 370Z. I have anew Z on order from the factory (which I'm sure will be delayed). It's probably my last sports car since I just turned 63. I've owned 3 Porsches and and a 1991 240SX that I loved and just lost last year.

My new 370Z is going to be 6MT Touring with Sport Package and Navigation. And all of the other stuff. I'm quite concerned about the oil temperature problem. I burned the rod bearings on my first Porsche 356B Super because the oil temperature got too high. I never had any problems with my 356SC or my 911S (Which had a dry sump and took about 9.5 quarts of oil on a change). My 240SX didn't have any oil problems either, but I did have to replace the head gasket at around 200K.

In reading these boards, it's clear that the new 370Z's have an oil cooling problem. I'm an engineer and a pretty good mechanic. If the oil temperature gets to breakdown levels there will be engine damage from metal to metal contact. 300 degree oil temperatures? That's ridiculous. The ECU shutdown is a lame solution. Nissan made a mistake when they computed the heat transfer rate from the lubrication system to the overall engine cooling system. The heat transfer from the oil system to the water system is proportional to the temperature difference. If the water system is running at 200 degrees, there will be no oil cooling until the oil temperature reaches this level.

From what I've heard, everyone is having oil temperature problem. This will lead to engine destruction.

Is anyone NOT having oil temperature problems? If so, do you drive the car in a "spirited" manner? Driving a 370Z gently will probably keep you from having engine damage problems. Don't exceed 55 MPH.

The engine needs a better oil cooling system. It could be that Nissan has improved the oil to water heat exchanger, but I don't think so. I'll find out when I get my new Z, but I don't expect any changes.

Again, I would like to hear from 370Z owners who have NOT had problems. What air temperature? Driving Style? What altitude? Going uphill?

In the meantime I think that there are two solutions. Install an oil cooler. I've heard that Nissan may void the warranty if you do, but I don't believe it. They would have to prove that the oil cooler caused an engine failure. Fat chance. The other solution is to change the (water) thermostat to a lower temperature. This would not help if the car is driven hard enough to open ANY thermostat.

Thanks for letting me express my concerns (anger?)

Steve

09-23-2010, 07:15 AM	#5 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1857	With a premade kit that is designed to fit, you could have it installed in under 2 hours. Especially with a lift. I made mine from scratch which required making a bracket mid-process and it took MAX 4 hours from front fascia off to front fascia back on. Hell, you could get the Stillen SC installed in 8 hours. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

12-07-2010, 06:50 PM	#9 (permalink)
Z2nv Base Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Edmonton, Canada Posts: 65 Drives: 2010 370z Rep Power: 15	Fenders removed? I just put in a short block and nissan factory cooler on an 2009 we charged the guy 3 hours+oil/filter+shop supplies.. The short block was under warranty so our dealership covered that. My short blocks on order right now, my z's consuming a litre per every 1500 km's. I didnt have to remove any fenders, just the front bumper. As per the warranty on the nissan cooler, we wont cover any issues that might be caused by the oil cooller failing. Siezed motor because oil cooler failed, youll have a tough time getting them to warranty it. __________________ STILLEN G3-STILLEN EXHAUST NISMO HDRS COBB TUNE ADV1 deepkoncave 10.1.........2010 370z Sportpackage 6mt..........2004 MustangCobra SVT 495whp - Forsale..............2004 G35 sedan 6mt VIP status - sold.

05-08-2011, 12:52 PM	#11 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 46 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 222	There's nothing wrong with with upright or facing down. But the other method your speaking off could be had, but I see no reason at all to such a thing. I'd do some more searching if I were you. __________________

05-08-2011, 02:09 PM	#13 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 46 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 222	To me it would be easier to mount upright and just remove for each oil change. To do what your saying there's a good chance you'd have to remove the front clip anyways. Which wouldn't add to much time to do. Small price to ensure all is well. Funny how some people are such in a rush to do maintence on a car. Take the time it needs. I'm not saying that about you. Just in general. __________________

05-08-2011, 03:02 PM	#14 (permalink)
BrandonT Base Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Denver Posts: 169 Drives: 2009 370Z White Rep Power: 15	Haven't done my first oil change yet (just bought it) so yeah it could be tight, I haven't looked. Good point. Maybe a drain line off the lower fitting? An upper fill hose may add too much complication (or maybe not). If you didn't use it you would still have the disadvantage of the down mount fittings in having to fill the cooler on startup after an oil change, starving the engine for a bit longer. On the other hand it would automatically air purge the cooler similar to a top mount fitting. I don't think people take the air pocket issue as seriously as they should. This is always an issue with exchangers, many industrial exchangers have vents or "burp" lines just to alleviate the problem. Last edited by BrandonT; 05-08-2011 at 03:23 PM.

09-23-2010, 01:59 PM	#6 (permalink)
Zeze Base Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Central Jersey Posts: 12 Drives: 07 BMW 335i TiAg M6 Rep Power: 16	Quick (perhaps stupid) question: the considerably large oil cooler being placed right in front of the radiator, would the radiator cooling performance be affected? Or is the radiator like something that's been over-designed and there's no need to worry?

09-24-2010, 12:02 AM	#8 (permalink)
Zeze Base Member Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Central Jersey Posts: 12 Drives: 07 BMW 335i TiAg M6 Rep Power: 16	Mmm. I see. Thanks!

05-08-2011, 12:46 PM	#10 (permalink)
BrandonT Base Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Denver Posts: 169 Drives: 2009 370Z White Rep Power: 15	I'm looking at getting one of these oil coolers on my new Z and have a couple questions. Leaving a bunch of oil in a cooler during an oil change does not appeal to me (fittings up), nor does having to fill an empty cooler on startup (fittings down). Would it be possible to mount these on their side, than add a three way fitting to the upper and lower fitting, so you can drain from the lower one and fill to the upper one (by taking a cap off the third nipple on the three way)? Also how does the GTM unit compare as far as using OEM filter? Or better yet the Puralator PureOne since that is what I will be using? Which of these kits has the the thermostatic valve built in to the adaptor plate, all of them?

05-09-2011, 04:45 PM	#15 (permalink)
kenyonscs Base Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Fairfax, VA Posts: 5 Drives: 2011 Black 370Z M6 Rep Power: 15	Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum and find this to be a wonderful site for the ins and outs of the 370Z. I have anew Z on order from the factory (which I'm sure will be delayed). It's probably my last sports car since I just turned 63. I've owned 3 Porsches and and a 1991 240SX that I loved and just lost last year. My new 370Z is going to be 6MT Touring with Sport Package and Navigation. And all of the other stuff. I'm quite concerned about the oil temperature problem. I burned the rod bearings on my first Porsche 356B Super because the oil temperature got too high. I never had any problems with my 356SC or my 911S (Which had a dry sump and took about 9.5 quarts of oil on a change). My 240SX didn't have any oil problems either, but I did have to replace the head gasket at around 200K. In reading these boards, it's clear that the new 370Z's have an oil cooling problem. I'm an engineer and a pretty good mechanic. If the oil temperature gets to breakdown levels there will be engine damage from metal to metal contact. 300 degree oil temperatures? That's ridiculous. The ECU shutdown is a lame solution. Nissan made a mistake when they computed the heat transfer rate from the lubrication system to the overall engine cooling system. The heat transfer from the oil system to the water system is proportional to the temperature difference. If the water system is running at 200 degrees, there will be no oil cooling until the oil temperature reaches this level. From what I've heard, everyone is having oil temperature problem. This will lead to engine destruction. Is anyone NOT having oil temperature problems? If so, do you drive the car in a "spirited" manner? Driving a 370Z gently will probably keep you from having engine damage problems. Don't exceed 55 MPH. The engine needs a better oil cooling system. It could be that Nissan has improved the oil to water heat exchanger, but I don't think so. I'll find out when I get my new Z, but I don't expect any changes. Again, I would like to hear from 370Z owners who have NOT had problems. What air temperature? Driving Style? What altitude? Going uphill? In the meantime I think that there are two solutions. Install an oil cooler. I've heard that Nissan may void the warranty if you do, but I don't believe it. They would have to prove that the oil cooler caused an engine failure. Fat chance. The other solution is to change the (water) thermostat to a lower temperature. This would not help if the car is driven hard enough to open ANY thermostat. Thanks for letting me express my concerns (anger?) Steve

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