^^Used master cylinder with 60K miles?!@#

I wish you luck, hopefully you'll at least be able to bled the thing.

I realize money is tight, but redundant labor costs even more. For the master or slave, only new parts. Anything else is asking for trouble. Lets hope you can at least get some use out of it.

Thank you for the heads up and tips man! I do believe I read something about breaking it in for the first 500 miles. I think I'll do it for longer though and as for fluids I'm always putting in royal purple for all fluids- engine oil, transmission and differential :D


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Here is how the sprung disk looked after it was pulled. I have never seen a plate grenade like that, no matter how hard I beat on one auto-x'ing.

Im a mobil 1 fan, although, for the clutch I used the Motul RBF600 and for the transmission I used Redline (its expensive as sh1t) but I used that for the first time, Joe from Zspeed said it basically fends off the chatter known for clutch upgrades.

Oh! So you would recommend I use redline over royal? How's that Motul btw I see a lot of people using it


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Brother, im gonna be honest with you, I only went with redline because Joe from zspeed said so, I've heard its really good stuff, but I dont know anything about it personally.

The Motul 600 is good stuff too. But boy, the sh1t is expensive. Its like $20 a quart. (and thats on ebay)

I bought the redline on ebay as well.. and saved money on both.

I honestly couldnt tell you if one was better than the other.

I am a firm believer in Redline products. I used MT-90 in the trans and 75-90NS in the rear diff of my Evo. Great stuff and it deffinately quiets things down. The Evo has extremely notchy trans, and the Redline gear oil smoothed it out.

I've had mixed results with redline mt85. It was great when I put it in (spring), no issues that coming winter. The following winter after ~8K miles however, shifting in the cold was very difficult. Temps in chicago fluctuate greatly in the winter.

The first 5-10 minutes of operation when near freezing temps (32F), shifting was very difficult. In fact, I had to go 1-3 until the car warmed up. Double clutching didn't help either.

In the middle of january I switched back to the OE nissan fluid. Shifting problems disappeared. Being a high performance synthetic fluid I would of expected it to last longer than 8K. We'll see how the nissan fluid does this winter.

I will say this, Joe from zspeed was right, I dont hear any chatter with my new clutch & flywheel. I did get the "silent" option when I ordered everything.

Name - Year - Mileage



1: Digitonium - 2009 - 16,158

2: dubhov - 2010 - 6,605

3: Joka4411 - 2010 - 10,000

4: Zeto - 2009 - ?????

5: Calivin - ???? - 11,500

6: Lazer_Z - ???? - 3,412

7: Zilent_Jay - 2009 - ????

8: Crystalline - 2009 - 8,500

9: Sarmyth - 2010 - 10,000

10: Fastfatdude - ???? - 140

11: Quicksliver- 2008 G37s - 25,000-30,000

12: Boost'dVQ - 2011 - 7,600

13: Big_J - 2009 - 21,000

14: Trilitheum - 2011 - ????

15: anthonyy - 2011 - 12,000

16: Youseenothing - 2011 - 9,300

17: 370Z_Purist - 2009 - 12,000

18: Bking - ???? - ????

19: Knio - 2010 - 17,000

20: dragonbreath - 2009 - 28,000

21: juice14 - 2011 - 6,200

22: Random_Strata - 2010 - 36,000

23: L8N8 - 2011 - ????

24: JennyT71 - 2010 - 26,000

25: TheGreatOne - 2010 - 22,000

26: windex - ???? - ????

27: Neptune - 2009 - ????

28: afbunn - 2009 - ????

29: sparhax - 2009 - 40,000

30: sungear - 2011 - 35,500

31: lhinojos - 2012 - ????

32: Steveasis - 2012 - 8,000

33: Slikshoes - 2011 - 16,200

34: Jstevenson - 2009 - 25,000

35: Simota1 - ???? - ????

36: Talimac - 2012 - 14,000

37: Sinceday1 - 2009 - 37,000 (Kilometers)

38: Slipper4678 - 2010 - 34,000

39: luigi90210 - 2011 - 29,000 & 33,000

40: SAmilitaryman - 2009 - 60,000

41: Shutterjock - 2010 - ????

42: Zensation - ???? - ????

43: Farmosh203 - 2009 - ????

44: Ephan - ???? - 24,000

45: Jstevenson - 2009 - 33,000 *again*

46: Denny_Mcclain - ???? - 18,000 & 43,000

47: DarylP - 2011 - 33,000

48: Kail - 2009 - 48,000

49: hunterinc - 2009 - 45,000

50: MikeUCFL - 2012 - 14,500

51: mdxj - 2009 - 33,000

52: jordan777er - 2009 - 50,900

53: n8gtol - ??? - 20,000 *3rd time*

54: Kylebucket - 2009 - 27,000

55: joelito - 2012 - 12,100 *4th time*

56: 1087 - 2012 - 12,243

57: ohmikegod - 2012 - ????

58: Z_Man - 2009 - 8,000

59: Kuyo - 2014 - 7,000

60: 90_ST - 2009 - 27,500 (Kilometers) *2nd time*

61: Osirus - 2011 - 40,000 *4th time*

62: tr0n - 2012 - 21,000

63: radensb - 2009 - ????

64: JeMo44 - 2013 - ????

65: mab864 - 2013 - 9,900 *2nd time*

66: duderevs - 2009 - 30,000 (Kilometers)

67: tigwelder - 2010 - 15,000

68: Need_NewName - 2009 - ????

69: R3drckt09 - 2009 - ????

70: Johnwiki - 2011 - 60,000

71: UXI - 2015 - 2,012

72: j312311 - 2015 - 1,700

73: pbs370z - 2010 - 9,000

74: Misnomer - 2010 - 28,000

75: Agent_K - 2013 - ????

76: KoolKarmajoe - 2009 - 64,000

77: BamBamZ - 2009 - 31,075

78: VBP6US - 2009 - 30,000 & 60,000

79: ZBrah - 2011 - 25,465

80: Rumblefish - 2010 - 29,000

81: jwick - 2010 G37 - 1,200

82: Fosingwo- 2011 - 17,000

83: Trainwreck - 2009 - 49,000

84: Cheech - 2010 - 53,000

85: Rareline1773 - 2016 - 500 (Reddit user)

86: Anifaust - 2009 - 47,000

87: KBC749 - 2010 - 41,000

88: ReadT - 2011 - 58,000

89: Zmanelite - 2012 - 21,000

90: FairladyZ10PG - 2010 - 55,000

91: FairladyZ40th - 2010 - 95,000

92: 2slow2care - 2011 - 63,000

93: Mynameisname - 2011 - 43,000

File a NHTSA Complaint
https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

I have the zspeed csc for about two years 15k maybe and it feels like it's starting to go out already, anyone had this problem with the zspeed csc????

I understand the silence or quiet but I mean is that it? I'm wondering how well it protects the mechanism and how good does it handle temp? As well as smoothing out shifting... Isn't that what should matter most?


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For me, I just wanted something that works, knowing that the transmission had to be opened to replace the CSC, I thought I'd myswell upgrade the clutch & flywheel, I didnt want to deal with chatter, and for $50 more, I figured it was worth it.

Im not sure why these components cause chatter, but they do.

They like to communicate with one another lol


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Idk either but I mean metal with metal spinning at high speeds, I think yeah it's bound to haha


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I would say running redline in your transmission wouldnt hurt, if anything, if its known to reduce chatter, which it is, full speed ahead.

Uh oh...

Are you running the stock clutch?
One of the members on here had one fail but he was running an aftermarket clutch (higher clamping force).

I killed a hd csc with a garbage spec clutch. Joe confirmed that spec clutches will destroy the csc fairly quickly.

I gotta install that RJM clutch pedal I have sitting new in the box... :ugh:

Sticky: (Official) 370Z Clutch Pressure (CSC) Failures
 

What about AMSOIL guys? I read a forum discussing Royal Purple vs AMSOIL vs RedLine

The guy mentions that the base stock of red line can damage gaskets and other small components in the tranny/engine. Further he adds that Royal Purple doesn't elaborate on what their base stock for their product is and creates a trust issue leaving AMSOIL... Your thoughts?

http://www.nsxprime.com/forum/showth...rple-etc/page3

"I did several months of research on oils trying to determine if there was a better oil. I primarly was looking at Royal Purple and Redline.

What I discovered, is that oils, both dino and synthetic, are vastly different, in both their basestock and their additives. These differences contribute to differences in performance.

The API classifies oils into five different groups.

Group I base oils are the least refined of all of the groups. They are usually a mix of different hydrocarbon chains with little or no uniformity. While some automotive oils use these stocks, they are generally used in less demanding applications.

Group II base oils are common in mineral based motor oils. They have fair to good performance in the areas of volatility, oxidation stability, wear prevention and flash/fire points. They have only fair performance in areas such as pour point and cold crank viscosity. Group II base stocks are what the majority of engine oils are made from. 3000 mile oil changes are the norm.

Group III base oils are subjected to the highest level of refining of all the mineral oil stocks. Although not chemically engineered, they offer improved performance in a wide range of areas as well as good molecular uniformity and stability. By definition they are considered a synthesized material and can be used in the production of synthetic and semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III is used in the vast majority of full synthetics or synthetic blends. They are superior to group I and II oils but still have limitations. Some formulations are designed for extended oil changes. AMSOIL XL Motor Oils, Castrol Syntec and many others fall into this category.

Group IV are polyalphaolefins (PAO) which are a chemically engineered synthesized basestocks. PAOs offer excellent stability, molecular uniformity and performance over a wide range of lubricating properties. AMSOIL SAE Synthetic Motor Oils and Mobil 1 primarily use group IV basestocks. PAO is a much more expensive basestock than the highly refined petroleum oil basestock of Group III.

Group V base oils are also chemically engineered stocks that do not fall into any of the categories previously mentioned. Typical examples of group V stocks are Esters, polyglycols and silicone. Redline uses an ester basestock.

In the 90s, Mobil filed suit against Castrol for falsely advertising Syntec oil as synthetic, when in fact it contained a Group III, highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil, instead of a chemically synthesized (group IV or V) basestock. Due to the amount that the mineral oil had been chemically changed, the judge decided in Castrol's favor. As a result, any oil containing this highly hydroprocessed mineral (Dino) oil (currently called Group III basestock by the American Petroleum Institute) can be marketed as a synthetic oil. Since the original synthetic basestock (polyalphaolefin or PAO) is much more expensive than the Group III basestock, most of the oil blenders switched to the Group III basestock, which significantly increased their profit margins.

When I was trying to decide between Royal Purple and Redline, I discovered AMSOIL. What impressed me about AMSOIL was that it used the same basestock as the stock Mobil 1 (Group IV PAO basestock), but used oil analysis reports showed AMSOIL used higher levels of detergents and anti-wear additives. This was somewhat confirmed when Mobil 1 came out with their Extended Performance Mobil 1. When Mobil 1 came out with this new product, at the time they claimed that it had about 50% more detergent and anti-wear additives than the regular Mobil 1.

What turned me off to Royal Purple were several poor used oil analysis reports I reviewed, and the fact that they did not say on their website what type of basestock they used. Other companies such as Redline, Mobil 1, and AMSOIL were very up front with their basestock, so I wondered what Royal Purple was trying to hide.

My research indicated to me that Redline was (and still is) a very good oil, but I was somewhat concerned that its basestock was Group V, an ester basestock, and I'd read a few bad reports on the ester's effects on seals in the Corvette transmission.

Now, I'm heading towards Amsoil."


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Good question. I've also had my HD CSC for about two years, but with less mileage (approx. 5K). No issues to date. However, a couple of questions for you:
First, did you replace the CMC at the same time that you installed the HD CSC?
Second, are you sure that it's the CSC that starting to go and not the CMC?
I'm only aware of one HD CSC failure, and that was Chuck who coupled it to a Spec clutch, and evidently the combination did not work.
That said, It's still a good question, and I'd be interested in hearing from others who have installed the HD CSC from ZSpeed.

It should be easy to tell if it's the CSC or MC. If there is fluid loss, then the csc has failed. If fluid level remains but no clutch action and/or soft pedal then air in the line or MC most likely. If you can't bleed the system then it's the MC.

I suppose it's possible that both have failed and there is no leak/fluid loss at the CSC because the MC can't pressurize the line enough.

As the MC wears, eventually the seals inside don't seal enough to generate pressure and fluid simply moves around the piston seals. There's no visible leaks as the leak is actually 'internal'.

Thanks for the response guys I did go aftermarket clutch I bought from joe at zspeed south bend and I think it is mc most likely .... No fluid loss and yes mc was changed the first time

If your clutch sinks then yeah it'll most likely be MC that was my issue at least but my mech suggested I do the entire clutch while he's there and so I agreed hah went with some economic stage 3 we'll see what happens...


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And if you are getting a fluid loss(but none on the ground)Take a look on the inside of the car and make sure the CMC isn't leaking externally.

WHOOOPP!!! So the kit has arrived a day early than the ETA for starters! :D so awesome haha will be taking it to my mechanic tomorrow and we shall see how they run.

I'll tell you how it goes from install and then after the brake in period and finally after maybe 1k miles and should I suffer any downfalls with it will definitely update on that guys :)

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...29661cc6d6.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...86ce5de30a.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...6e35f425a7.jpg

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...ea48d23849.jpg


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JUST DO IT! Lol X) are you gonna diy it?


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I forgot to add that my csc went out on me at about 23k miles, IIRC. Year is 2012.
I drive my Z pretty hard as well, also. I've had the zspeed csc installed along with new oem cmc. I kept the original clutch mostly because I couldn't afford a new one and have had no issues thus far.

The clutch kit I purchased costed me $465 and its stage 3... Idk if you want to take a leap of faith along with haha


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hell no, maybe if I did 5 of them and had the process down to a science, a DIY for me on this project would take me 2 years trying to edit the damn video.. haha..

Lmao dude! Aw man that was good 2 yrs haha that's good enough time man I mean cmon its just 2 yrs it'll be worth it XD lol


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I think my csc may be on it's way out. The clutch feels really soft and it doesn't feel like it wants to pop up. Yesterday, it just sort of lunged as it engaged. I was trying to pull out of a spot. I had the transmission replaced under warranty at around 36k miles. I'm now at around 62k miles and completely out of my extended warranty. The dealership that replaced the trans also closed and now under new ownership. Anyway, the last thing I need right now is to spend a ton on replacing this stupid part. What have people payed out of pocket replacing this at a dealership and what are my odds of Nissan doing anything to help? Am I completely SOOL?

Bro just buy the part your self I got the Master cylinder for $75 when the stealership charges like $180 and the CSC you can get for about $100 - $120 and the dealer will charge around $160...


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The part cost doesn't worry me, the install cost does. It's around $250 at Z1 for the CMC, CSC and CSC tube. Even if I go to a local shop, it sounds like an expensive job since they need to pull the transmission.

Brother, I know, I seriously gotta just go out in this hott azz weather and knock it out... :icon14:

The labor is gonna get you, the transmission has to be pulled, it sucks..

Cost me a little over 900 for labor at dealership

Oh that's even better! Dedicate the 2 years and make sure not to bring any water with you also it'll help you work better, seriously! Lol X) aww man this has been my favorite topic/forum thus far.


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