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Originally Posted by Mitco39 Guys are pulling the brake lamp fuse to be able to do burn outs as to the best of my knowledge this is the only advantage
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#1 (permalink) | |
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The ABLS won't let you do a standing/brake burnout. I am having a line lock installed so I can do a proper burn out with the M/T drag radials. Need to get those tires toasty to increase the available traction. The Race Logic and the M/T's hooked the car up much better in 2nd and lowered my ET by .6 seconds. Wasn't able to do the burn out tho because of the ABLS -therefore it didn't improve my 60' time at all... The available traction just wasn't there and when the Race Logic kicked in just off the line the car bogged and lost momentum. My overall ET would have even better with a quicker 60' Won't miss the ABLS at all since you can still get the car tail end happy even with it on. Won't miss the VDC either since the Race Logic keeps the car straight and narrow all by itself. Am currently having a switch/relay installed to disconnect the circuit and at the same time enable the line lock on track days. If you can find a work around for the Brake Lights that would be the PERFECT solution! Bob Last edited by Z&I; 01-16-2014 at 11:48 AM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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For me, I'm just wiring it with a protected toggle interupting the green power wire feeding the Yaw sensor from connector 4 as per the manual. On when I want it off when I don't
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Also I did some digging through the FSM for you and found out (in theory) how to bypass the brake switch while still keeping your lights. ![]() Its a bit hard to see but you essentially want to cut the wire going from your fuse block to your ABS controller. This will kill and brake signal going to your CanBus but yet still let your brake lights function as they should. ![]() Again hard to see but the ABS connector is E41 and its pin 30 with a SB color of wire. Knowing first hand how hard it is to get to the abs connector I would probably look at the fuse block end of things (pin 1F of E103). Hope this helps! I might do the same thing come summer. Mitch
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Will download the pictures and bring up the contrast and resolution in PhotoShop. Ideally I would want to keep the ABS and Brake Lights but lose the ABLS and VDC. Hard to tell or predict without actually doing it - but do you foresee this happening ? I'm looking in to the suspension/weight transfer, camber/alignment and tire pressure to get it to hook up better. Great job on the research you did ... The shop is either going to love me or hate me when this is all figured out !!! Bob |
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The exact pages in the FSM is EXL-91, BRC-76, BRC-77. I would bet that the ABS would be disabled as this is what occurs when pulling the fuse for the whole circuit.
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Apologize profusely and muchly ... have so much going on in my head with the build ... couldn't find this info and that you already answered my question ... Keep in touch with me ... THANKS Bob |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Car is in the shop right now and we are at the point of decision as to how to best nuetralize the VDC and ABLS when I go to the track...and then return the car to 'Normal' for driving on the street. There have been some changes (or adaptations) along the way as the build has progressed... The research and info that you have provided has been invaluable. The shop has make the final determination as to the ease, effectiveness (and cost) of the modifications now. I downloaded the FSM ... yikes !!! there are a ton of individual PDF files ... Where can I find these particular diagrams ??? Just wanted to thank you again for your eagerness and ability to help me with this... AWESOME Will keep you posted as to the results !!! Bob |
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