New clutch time

Rusty

The aluminum flywheel uses a steel ring for the fiction area of the clutch disk. What I have read. It's not a good DD flywheel. The steel ring doesn't transfer the heat too good to the aluminum. For track, it good.

Most people seem to have to adjust the Z1 CMAK set up more often. The ZSpeed is set it and forget it. There have been some teething problems with both. But the ZSpeed is the one I would get.

That Z1 14lbs flywheel is nice. But remember. The lighter the wheel, the less rotating mass you have. Hole shots will take more rpms so that you don't bog off the line. Down shifts with out rev match or heal and toe will lock the rear tires for a moment. Used to call this compression patches. Your upshifts will take some getting use to. As the engine will now spin faster and lose rpms faster between shifts. And with a lighter flywheel. It may set off the knock sensors.

My set-up would be the Z1 14 lbs flywheel. The OS Giken TR series dual disk clutch, ZSpeed CMAK, RJM clutch pedal, Tilton master cylinder Coolworxs shifter, and a Z1 poly tranny mount. And pray that it doesn't set off the knock sensors.

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-ZS-Carpenter

Exactly why I have no interest in one. If it was track only sure but it's not.

Read of too many people that have had nothing but problems with the Z1 CSC delete and the ride back to the G after the breakdown was in a car with the Z1 kit. I truly believe that one was not installed right, it felt like something was binding when depressing the pedal.
Anyway the Zspeed CMAK has been on the list of too dos for a long time.

And I don't do any real competitive drag racing. The 1/2 mile event I do is more like a 2 day free for all test and tune than something like the TX 1/2 mile or WannaGoFast. I really thought that is where I would break the CSC by doing repetitive launches with the 2 step after it was already a bit hot but a lazy 2-3 on a cool morning was all the more she could take.


I'm really looking at the rjm pedal and going with the Z1 kit+mount, Zspeed cmak, oem cmc, and only be slightly over budget once I add the little stuff and a few tools. I got a head coming for the floor jack too.


That would be my second pick. It looks like a really nice setup. The weight savings and $$ savings are both pointing me this way. I get the lightest steel FW and half the rjm pedal is paid for.

Spooler

Well, the above is a load of crap. I have driven for years with an aluminum flywheel that has steel frictions. It works just fine. I am not sure where folks got that from. Guess it is internet rumor.

As far as what clutch to get, that is so hard to say. Everyone has their own expectations. Call Joe at Zspeed and talk to him since he deals with this stuff constantly.

-ZS-Carpenter

If I get rained out I'll give him a call. Hard to find time during business hours when I'm working 12+ a day.

I think I have a pretty good list going. I've got a little time before placing the order and will give Joe a call if I get a chance to.

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Rusty

Hey crappy head. I got my info from some track rats. First hand.

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Spooler

Like I said, I have done it for years. Never had one issue driving one on the street.

BettyZ

Yessss, Flywheel War IV! I'll keep it going: I have a Grok Industries millstone in my Flintstonemobile and haven't had a problem since 5100 B.C.

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'14 MB Nismo | Boost Lab 6870 1.32 AR 553 HP / 471 ft.-lbs.
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-ZS-Carpenter

This is turning into a **** show. I'm going to grab some popcorn and ask a few more questions

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Spooler

It was not meant to be. This is my personal experience. Not a he said she said.

Rusty

Ok, I'm home now, and not distracted. Last year at a trackday. Was talking to a couple of other drivers. The subject of aluminum flywheels come up. The consensus was that they are great for the track. For street use. There is more slipping of the clutch to get moving because of lack of inertia. You have to change your driving style for it. In stop and go traffic. This extra slipping has lead to deep heat spots on the friction ring. A couple guys said that it affected disk life and feel for the clutch. 3 said that they switched back to steel. The other 4 still running the aluminum. But these guys change the friction ring on a regular schedule. The one guy had a pic on his phone and the friction ring was a solid blue. To turn blue. That's about 650F to 750F.

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Spooler

Hmm, guess I drive different. I am on and off the clutch quick. I don't slip it much at all.

Rusty

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html