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2011 6mt died when coming to a stop, wont start

Originally Posted by BettyZ What year was the Z? If one of the earlier years, oil galley gaskets perhaps? Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk This thread comes to mind.

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Old 11-13-2018, 02:13 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BettyZ View Post
What year was the Z? If one of the earlier years, oil galley gaskets perhaps?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
This thread comes to mind.

Engine Ticking Noise Rythmic
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Old 11-13-2018, 07:08 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by BettyZ View Post
What year was the Z? If one of the earlier years, oil galley gaskets perhaps?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
This thread comes to mind.

Engine Ticking Noise Rythmic
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Not in any way making a diagnosis of the situation, but it would take a whole lot more than the loss of 1 quart of oil to destroy an engine. Especially as it was still on the dipstick. Something else was definitely the culprit and I'd love to hear the consensus.
made that exact noise under acceleration. guess i found the culprit. its a 2011

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just for an FYI, I replaced my motor in my g for 4300. got a used 2015 z motor for a little over 1k$ with just under 20k miles on it, got it installed at specialty z. it's not too expensive to get it done. only reason I did it was because I have the car paid off and didn't want to get into another car payment.
this is my current plan, considering the labor for replacing the engine comes to $2600, which i find surprising, especially at a dealer.

my plan is to get a decent condition used motor, a better clutch, headers, and an exhaust and get all that installed while theyre replacing the motor.
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Old 11-13-2018, 07:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What year motor? Newer years have the updated gaskets.
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Old 11-14-2018, 05:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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made that exact noise under acceleration. guess i found the culprit. its a 2011



this is my current plan, considering the labor for replacing the engine comes to $2600, which i find surprising, especially at a dealer.

my plan is to get a decent condition used motor, a better clutch, headers, and an exhaust and get all that installed while theyre replacing the motor.
My two cents: the OEM headers are well designed and unless you're going for long tube headers - which means deleting your catalytics, which could be a problem in your state - non-LTH aftermarket headers dont have a good cost-benefit ratio.

If you havent yet, get the CMAK kit with a new clutch and flywheel from ZSpeed. And consider a mild wire re-loom and tuck while the engine's out!

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