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Giken Triple Disk Clutch Install

I will be starting my install this Friday, Anyone DIY on this item? Hints/Tips. I have installed many clutch packs in my driveway over the years. Still any input is

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Old 10-04-2015, 05:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Giken Triple Disk Clutch Install

I will be starting my install this Friday, Anyone DIY on this item? Hints/Tips. I have installed many clutch packs in my driveway over the years. Still any input is welcome. Thanks.

I have to add this to start using the NOS and launch control!!!
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Old 10-05-2015, 12:48 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Follow the directions, clean the oil off the plates, use an alignment tool, make sure you put the right friction plate in in the right direction. Use new crank bolts as well for safety also bending the middle heat sheald down so you can slide the driveshaft to the side and out saves hella time vs the factory method of dropping the rear diff. Oh and get some pb blaster or aerokroil on the cat bolts you're gonna have to pull the whole exhast behind the headers. And dropping the back of the crossmember a little to let you pull the trans wire connectors helps too. You can torque the flywheel by yourself with the car on stands just put a socket and breaker bar hanging down from the crank bolt and hold with your knees while torquing the bolts(this part sucks the most). It takes a couple days on your back if you are meticulous. Dl the fsm if you dont have it already the os instructions refer you to it a lot. When tightening the pressure plate jump around the outside with the bolts like its a wheel and do two steps to make sure it is evenly torqued AND MAKE SURE YOU USE AN ALIGNMENT TOOL OR YOUR GONNA HATE STABBING THE TRANS. Lightly grease the trans splines(like super thin coating of red bearing grease) and remember the top trans bolts are easier to tighten up top behind the motor. Also have plenty of beer on standby you will get frustrated at some point. Also dont forget the throwout bearing adapter before you put it back together and if you have a hd slave cylinder you will have to source a different one from them because the saab throwut bearing is larger and doesnt fit with the adapter.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Doing up the bolts and torqueing them in a star pattern important too -
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Old 10-05-2015, 09:22 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 1slow370 View Post
Follow the directions, clean the oil off the plates, use an alignment tool, make sure you put the right friction plate in in the right direction. Use new crank bolts as well for safety also bending the middle heat sheald down so you can slide the driveshaft to the side and out saves hella time vs the factory method of dropping the rear diff. Oh and get some pb blaster or aerokroil on the cat bolts you're gonna have to pull the whole exhast behind the headers. And dropping the back of the crossmember a little to let you pull the trans wire connectors helps too. You can torque the flywheel by yourself with the car on stands just put a socket and breaker bar hanging down from the crank bolt and hold with your knees while torquing the bolts(this part sucks the most). It takes a couple days on your back if you are meticulous. Dl the fsm if you dont have it already the os instructions refer you to it a lot. When tightening the pressure plate jump around the outside with the bolts like its a wheel and do two steps to make sure it is evenly torqued AND MAKE SURE YOU USE AN ALIGNMENT TOOL OR YOUR GONNA HATE STABBING THE TRANS. Lightly grease the trans splines(like super thin coating of red bearing grease) and remember the top trans bolts are easier to tighten up top behind the motor. Also have plenty of beer on standby you will get frustrated at some point. Also dont forget the throwout bearing adapter before you put it back together and if you have a hd slave cylinder you will have to source a different one from them because the saab throwut bearing is larger and doesnt fit with the adapter.
I bought this used with less than 1K miles on it, I have no instructions. Could you send a copy to me, or tell me the download site? I have 2 bearing adapters with this kit, I am sure the long on is for the stock bearing. Do you have a P/N for the SAAB HD bearing, I'll pick on up. Thnaks
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Old 10-05-2015, 09:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If you have 2 adapters then I'm willing to bet you already have the Zspeed one. Just use the one that fits on the Zspeed (Saab) slave cylinder. The other will be the adaptor that came with the clutch which doesn't fit on the Zspeed slave. MAKE SURE to not forget the adaptor. It will blow the seals on your slave cylinder before you ever drive it, making you have to do all of this over again and costing you $100.
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:04 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Old 10-05-2015, 07:05 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:50 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Started this, on jack stands, No problems yet. The CSC line is very long, can someone tell me if I should take the hard line and heat shield soft lines out.

Also the CF drive shaft has flat spots in the u joints. The shaft is non serviceable you have to buy a new one. Thanks NISSAN!
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Old 06-25-2016, 06:35 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Finished, peddle effor is highter. Window is narrow. Will adjust window with peddle.
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:27 AM   #10 (permalink)
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First drive very touchy, in just the 28 mile drive to work it feels better. After the install I had no rattle at a stop with the clutch depressed as the plates did not float correctly. The parts are manufactured so close tolerance that it will take some time break in. I now have some rattle and shifting is better. The manual shows a 500 mile break in. We will see. As of now other member in the family could not drive it.
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Old 07-03-2016, 07:20 AM   #11 (permalink)
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300 miles and still chatters, seems to work best when cold. As I get more heat in the clutch it gets touchy. Chatter is random and can happen any time

Ckutch is set at max window min effort.
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Old 07-03-2016, 04:39 PM   #12 (permalink)
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300 miles and still chatters, seems to work best when cold. As I get more heat in the clutch it gets touchy. Chatter is random and can happen any time

Ckutch is set at max window min effort.
Did you replace the flywheel at the same time?
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Old 07-03-2016, 06:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Did you replace the flywheel at the same time?
Yes
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Old 07-03-2016, 06:50 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes
Single-mass, lightweight one? That's probably the source of the chatter. I have a 19lbs flywheel with no audible chatter -- wish I had gone lighter!
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Old 07-03-2016, 06:58 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Single-mass, lightweight one? That's probably the source of the chatter. I have a 19lbs flywheel with no audible chatter -- wish I had gone lighter!
Super-lite, it is not noise it jerks, sometimes not all the time, seems smoother when cold, also get better with more use. There is a 500 mile brake in, but the manufacture said to take it to the strip and that would cover the brake in. Dont have a strip!
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