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1slow370 · 10-05-2015, 12:48 AM

Follow the directions, clean the oil off the plates, use an alignment tool, make sure you put the right friction plate in in the right direction. Use new crank bolts as well for safety also bending the middle heat sheald down so you can slide the driveshaft to the side and out saves hella time vs the factory method of dropping the rear diff. Oh and get some pb blaster or aerokroil on the cat bolts you're gonna have to pull the whole exhast behind the headers. And dropping the back of the crossmember a little to let you pull the trans wire connectors helps too. You can torque the flywheel by yourself with the car on stands just put a socket and breaker bar hanging down from the crank bolt and hold with your knees while torquing the bolts(this part sucks the most). It takes a couple days on your back if you are meticulous. Dl the fsm if you dont have it already the os instructions refer you to it a lot. When tightening the pressure plate jump around the outside with the bolts like its a wheel and do two steps to make sure it is evenly torqued AND MAKE SURE YOU USE AN ALIGNMENT TOOL OR YOUR GONNA HATE STABBING THE TRANS. Lightly grease the trans splines(like super thin coating of red bearing grease) and remember the top trans bolts are easier to tighten up top behind the motor. Also have plenty of beer on standby you will get frustrated at some point. Also dont forget the throwout bearing adapter before you put it back together and if you have a hd slave cylinder you will have to source a different one from them because the saab throwut bearing is larger and doesnt fit with the adapter.

10-05-2015, 12:48 AM	#2 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7250	Follow the directions, clean the oil off the plates, use an alignment tool, make sure you put the right friction plate in in the right direction. Use new crank bolts as well for safety also bending the middle heat sheald down so you can slide the driveshaft to the side and out saves hella time vs the factory method of dropping the rear diff. Oh and get some pb blaster or aerokroil on the cat bolts you're gonna have to pull the whole exhast behind the headers. And dropping the back of the crossmember a little to let you pull the trans wire connectors helps too. You can torque the flywheel by yourself with the car on stands just put a socket and breaker bar hanging down from the crank bolt and hold with your knees while torquing the bolts(this part sucks the most). It takes a couple days on your back if you are meticulous. Dl the fsm if you dont have it already the os instructions refer you to it a lot. When tightening the pressure plate jump around the outside with the bolts like its a wheel and do two steps to make sure it is evenly torqued AND MAKE SURE YOU USE AN ALIGNMENT TOOL OR YOUR GONNA HATE STABBING THE TRANS. Lightly grease the trans splines(like super thin coating of red bearing grease) and remember the top trans bolts are easier to tighten up top behind the motor. Also have plenty of beer on standby you will get frustrated at some point. Also dont forget the throwout bearing adapter before you put it back together and if you have a hd slave cylinder you will have to source a different one from them because the saab throwut bearing is larger and doesnt fit with the adapter. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 Last edited by 1slow370; 10-05-2015 at 12:52 AM.