Yep, I was very pleased when I picked mine up from Z1. Congrats, hope you're as happy with them as I've been. I'm seriously jealous of your E85 access, though. It's almost a 2 hour drive 1 way for me to get some.

while it was expensive to do i would say besides gears this was one of the best mods to date..car runs Fantastic..cant wait to fuel up with some E85 and take it out for some fun..

Just ordered the JWT C2 Cams and supporting mods from Z1:

1 x JWT C2 Exhaust Camshaft Set - 370Z / G37 (VQ37VHR) () = $749.00
1 x VQ35HR / VQ37VHR Timing Cover O-Ring and Seal Kit () = $120.00
Include All Extras
1 x OEM VQ35HR / VQ37VHR Water Pump (B1010-JK20A) = $67.00
1 x OEM VQ35HR / VQ37VHR Oil Pump (15010-JK20D) = $196.00
1 x Boundary Engineering HR / VHR Billet Oil Pump Gears () = $399.00
1 x Z1 VQ HR / VHR Oil Pan Spacer () = $135.50
Include Ultra Grey RTV
1 x MOTUL 8100 Oil Change Bundle - 5w30 () = $99.94
Additional Quarts 1 Quart
Filter Type NISMO Oil Filter

Starting the tear down this weekend. Hoping to have the car delivered to @Dynosty by the end of the month for a re-tune. In addition to the JWT C2 Cams, since laying down the 341whp/271whp I have added the following:

-Z1 Ported Lower Intake Manifold
-Z1 Race Intakes from standard Z1 Intakes
-Z1 2-piece lightweight rotors
-Dewla Intake Guide

Trying to keep my expectations in check, but would be really excited to eclipse the 370whp/290wtq marks. Would put the HP per Liter around the 118 mark in between the Audi R8 (117.3) and the Ferrari F12TDF (122.2) which are the pinnacle of N/A Engine benchmarks.

Looking forward to seeing the results. Do you have an instagram to follow along on the build?

Random aside, didn't the S2000 make 120hp hp per L? 240hp, 2.0L F20 engine

That is correct it did, and stock. The list I checked were for current production models, which in all honesty makes the F20 feat even more impressive.The highest current HP per Liter N/A engine is the Ferrari 458 Speciale of 132.7.

Regardless, rarefied air as far as N/A engines go.

Sorry, I don't have an Instagram account. I plan to document with pictures and videos.

I know Dynosty put a little video together when they tuned my car last year because I think it was the first N/A Z they had tuned over 340whp. Hopefully the results warrant another video from them this time as well.

What’s 370 to the wheels? ~435 to the crank? I’d be happy too

go E85 you'll see more power
not sure how many miles are on your car.. might want to look at doing the timing chain while you have the motor tore down

also just be aware you need to pull the transmission and the secondary oil pan to get to the oil pump out..

Thought hard about it but it just isn't that accessible where I live and didn't want to have to worry about it when I go an random drives/trips in the vehicle. Also, just want to see what the car will do on pump 93.

Appreciate the heads up, thank you!

Why can't you do both? I've got a pump gas and an E85 map. I didn't spend big money for the flex fuel kit, so I do have to manually switch maps, but it's about as much trouble as setting cruise control. No reason not to if you're already in that deep. I got some GTR injectors for cheap and just had them put those in while my car in a state of shrapnel.

You make great points and I really have no argument against. I typically try to do things right the first time when modding the car. However, it's also my hobby/toy and am constantly adding or trying new things as I desire. It's not really about the money or being economical, but more about what I want to do and when. I also enjoy doing the majority of the work myself or with my dad on the vehicle. It's my release from being CEO of a company and having a wife and 4 kids. So it's possible I go E-85 down the road, but just really have no desire to do it right now.

Not having to run your tank to near empty anytime you want to switch fuels is the downside of uprev, having the ability to run a mixture of both fuels and a gauge to tell you the content and having the ecu automatically adjust timing according the the E content is worth the extra time and trouble of the install. Putting your hard earn time and money into something done right the first is a must. Plus staying NA and not have a supper aggressive map you could probably get away with it and be fine.

I don't have E85 local to me, but I know roughly where the stations are. It is a little trouble, but I try to plan the gas based on the distance if at all possible. Like for ZDayz next week, I'll be leaving the house with about a 1/4 of tank to get to an E station and fill up there. If it's too far out of the way to hit another 1, I'll just default back to pump 93. Sorta sucks, but I knew going in it would be the exception, not the norm.

Oo can I go for a ride at z days?

I don't see why not, but the boss will be with me, so you might have to ask her :rofl2:

No worries, I’ll ask for permissions

production engines only right? I know of more than a few spec race engines that do well into 150hp/l

Look at motorcycles. They're over 200HP /Liter.

oh man im pumped about this no offense but are you missing anything compared to the guys doing 370whp with these cams, just wondering because i had e85, seb tuned uprev on seb's dyno and was 20+ higher than that with the full Na drysump build. don't feel bad though that car wrecked me financially for 4years.

yeah but that's an economy of scale thing once you start getting to 2.0l high output engines the mass of the components at the larger size and to handle higher dead torque loads prevents you from spinning the engine 12k+ rpm easily look up the stanton racing engines sr11 midget motor. roughly 380hp from 2.5l NA

You buy your car back yet?

:iagree:

The smaller the motor. The more HP/liter. Try and get a 7 liter motor to 200/liter N/A. :rofl2:

Yes I’m on 4.08 gears going back to stock end of year and going to dyno for numbers.. should be in the 370whp range

Nope building another unicorn instead. Debt free this time so who knows when it will be done this ones full stupid tho. It will be running jwt c11 or c12 cams though. Its not to the point of build thread yet.

Getting closer to the actual install of the cams. It has been a bear, but will be worth it in the end. I'm sure putting it all back together will be easier than taking it all apart. Been good bonding time with my dad and I anyways and given him something to work on in retirement. Hopefully loaded on the trailer and hauling to Dynosty in Louisville for a tune sometime in the next couple of weeks.

Just as an FYI, this does not appear to be the case on my car.

weird Seb told me he had to pull both to get the oil pump out

Yeap, you have to pull both. Seb didn't lead you wrong.

It may be the case if dropping the engine. However, we just disassembled the oil pump and it came right off. Pictures below.

Ah, you took the whole front cover off when you installed the cams. This is what allowed you to twist the oil pump and pull it off. Most of the time you would hang the motor from a cradle and pull the rest of the oil pan.

Here are some more pictures of our progress. The tear down is a bear. Only thing left is removing the springs, then the rebuild can begin and I believe will move much quicker than the tear down. My dad has done the majority of the heavy lifting, he has no VQ experience, but has built drag and circle track race engines his entire life. His claim to fame was that he was Terry Labonte’s engine builder before he made it to cup, my dad is from Corpus Christi, TX. The VQ is definitely a different animal but he is really enjoying the work since he is retired and doesn’t have a lot of other exciting things going on. Patience is a must if doing this install to do it correctly. A lot of notes, pictures, cleaning and replacing everything preparing for the rebuild.

I’m just struggling with the patience part, can’t wait to see what it can do. Hopefully by the end of June.

Great tear down pics!

Be really interested in which valve spring compressor tool you plan to use, and how well it ends up working.

Jon at Z1 recommended a Universal Overhead Valve Spring Compressor. Fortunately we have one so that’s what we are going to try first.

just dont F up your' lifter bores

Also not saying its going to happen but if you dont remove the upper pan when you go to put the oil pump back on you stand a good chance of cutting the oring while putting it back in also the front cover is a bitch to rtv and reinstall with the upper pan in place silicone everywhere it shouldnt be and not enough where it should be. This leads to oil leaks at the front of the pan.

The universal spring compressor wouldn’t work. We engineered our own tool using the items in the picture below.