Interested in that torque gain/curve

what kinda gas? 93? e85?

93

Hmmm seems like you didn’t gain very much.. I gained 21whp on 91 gas..
I would have figured you would have been mid 360 range
What are the TQ numbers

I don't have the graph or video yet from the Dynosty team but I know they are busy and will get around to it when they are able. But, thought I would go ahead and share my thoughts and opinions.

I'm bumming a little bit quite honestly. 351whp is a great result for N/A on pump 93 octane, don't get me wrong. And I should probably pull my head out of my ***. However, going into this I thought I would definitely be at or above 360whp.

I was at 341whp last may and added the following that could or would have an impact to whp rating:

-Upgraded Z1 Race intakes from standard
-Z1 Ported Lower Intake manifold
-Dewla Air Intake Guide
-Z1 2-Piece Lightweight Rotors
-JWT Cams/Springs and other supporting mods

The real kicker is that I actually lost 1-2 ft. lbs. of torque, which has me scratching my head more than anything. Even installations that didn't pick up much WHP always seemed to yield better torque ratings. And I can feel it, down low and in the midrange, more than ever the power is up top despite not raising the redline at all.

So I have a lot of questions right now. Did poor weather 92 degrees and 90% humidity have something to do with it? Are my throttle bodies a choking point? Is e85 the real star? Should I have another tuner take a stab at it?

Just to be clear as well, I do not regret doing this installation at all. I was already extremely pleased with the power this car was making and 400 crank HP was my goal all along. I'm interested in squeezing every little bit out of the car and the money and/or time to do so was not an issue. That said, I think I would be hard pressed to recommend it at this point based on the results. The car does sound better and is a blast to rev out. 350whp is a nice round number as well, and I'm sure a lot of guys would give a lot to get there so I don't want to come off as negative. Just was surprised it didn't do a little better is all.

Absolutely. Dyno it again in December and you'll see the numbers you were hoping for. The heat is bad, but the humidity is killer.

Agreed! Thick heavy hot air is a power killer. I live at 3500' and when I drop a 1000' or more my performance increases significantly.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

1) same dyno machine as last time?
2) did u already have the ported upper intake plenum?
3) the header ... I don't understand why, but on Z1's instagram they talked about how long tube style doesn't always make more power. Haven't seen anyone explain it. Z1 sells short style

You explained it yourself. If they made long tube headers they would say they're the better ones.

Z1 is a pretty good place to buy parts, but they love to pump up their own products over others.

1.) yes
2.) yes
3.) I think it has been proven and documented that you can make power with long tube style(FI, Motordyne, PPE, etc.) or the Z1 shorty header & test pipe combo

Oh I have no doubt, just wondering if anyone else had such experience or heard some explanation to support that claim

Those are great numbers despite the heat. I doubt I'd be making anywhere close to that right now. The torque numbers still seem a little lower than what I would expect with cams, but of course... heat.

Fixed it. :tup:

Here is the video I took during the final pull:

Here is the graph. The 342whp run is from May 2018 before the Cam installation. Temp./Humidity was also much more favorable during that session as well. You can clearly see the loss in midrange torque.

Your Tq curve is very very flat. That's a good thing. It would be nice to see the before and after on the same graph. The heat did kill your power levels for sure.

The before run is the Red line at 342 WHP 271 WTQ

wonder what the most someone's made on 91

21whp and 8wtq on 91

So I started doing the cam install Saturday, actually pulled #1 valve spring and went to replace with the jwt supplied valve spring but the retainer didn't fit the supplied valve spring. I talked to someone at JWT and they told me that I would need an earlier model valve spring retainer (that's been discontinued). Did anyone else come across this problem, I would like to know what year they apparently changed to the beehive style valve springs.

:confused:

I'm not sure, was not an issue for me and my install on a 2011. Hopefully someone here can assist or give an explanation.

That may have changed in 2015. Several things did.

Cheap heads. Don’t know what year these came off of

I hope noone buys these...I asked if he disassembled them and he said yes... that's a huge no no. Those are trash now unless maybe you are a master tech. The ladders are disassembled and ruined.

LOL, they are not ruined. How do you think they build motors, do valve jobs, and replace the valve guides, etc.

By leaving the vvel ladders alone...they are machined together

I sold a pair of heads like this to a forum
Member. Heads are installed and car is very closed to being tuned. How do you think people install c2 cams? Have to remove the ladder to removed the oem exhaust cam.

Sirnixalot. I sold
Him heads, vvel girdle was disassembled. He had a spare vvel girdle and used them on the heads I sold him. Those heads are a steal.

They can be rebuilt. MA-Motorsports can do it.

Ok, maybe I shouldn't be worrying as much then. The factory service manual says that they can't be mixed and matched (ladders & heads). It looks to me like the control shaft has been removed, which the fsm clearly states never remove the black bolts on the control shaft or make adjustments to the rockers.

Correct.? Just unbolt the 19 bolts that hold the girdle. Don’t touch the black main cap bolts on the vvel ladder

Yeah, that's all I was trying to say...the guy selling the heads looks like he has taken the ladder apart (as in removing the black bolts)

Yeah he is a idiot. Heads are good though

So humidity makes a bigger difference than heat? Good to know. That means mine should have some more in it too, then :happydance:

Is your car a 13+ if so you need to call up jim
Wolf and get the correct size retainers,13+ went to a beehive spring. Just got off the phone with them

Thanks Elmo, I was able to get Ray from RZG to send me the correct retainers. I'm waiting on them now

Well, as I'm going to install timing components, I have these extra 2 short bolts...turns out I needed to install them prior to installing the cams...now everything has to come back off. This just took the wind out of my sails

Was only able to make 2 passes and didn't launch very well on either but still captured some good exhaust notes. Car ran a DA adjusted 13.1 ET at 109.5 MPH. Beat the SRT8 Challenger by over a half second.

Cammed and Tuned
 

After finishing up the cam install, I drove to Houston from Louisiana (the first day off jack stands & 350 miles) without any hiccups. Last time I had Moncef (Admin Tuning) tune my car we made 316whp/262tq on pump gas with UpRev, dual exhaust, 4.08 gears, and stock crank pulley. Now the car has a single exit g Y pipe from ISR, 3.69 gears, & ATI crank pulley. We made a nice 329whp/269tq on pump gas & 336whp/273tq on e85 with Ecutek. If I didn't do the work myself I would have been really disappointed in the gains compared to the rest of you guys that are killing it. With that being said I'm ready to make some good 1/4 mile times.

Congrats on the install, it’s a tall task. Are you expecting better quarter mile times than you had with the 4.08 gears? Or I guess why did you decide to change?

I’m considering upgrading my diff and going to 4.08s this winter so I’m curious.

Thanks and congrats again!