I was worried as well but it was not an issue whatsoever, they do not interfere with each other.

I'm actually running the FI tow bar. I'm not entirely sure how they mounted them when it was reassembled at Z1, but Injust had them resting on the bar. The air guide was bolted in at the top. It screws into the bottom of the stock bar, but that's not an option w/ the FI bar. I used a stainless steel zip tie through the hole in the bottom of the guide and the tow hook hole, pulled it as tight as I could and hit it w/ some black spray paint. It was pretty solid that way, but I imagine Z1 screwed it down a little better.

What did Z1 and Dynosty mean by poor idle quality and reliability issues? I've been running the EPS TBs for almost 2 years without any issues and I was remotely tuned by Seb.

Seb told me he didnt really like them EPS TBs either...sometimes they want to fight each other, and getting the idle stable is difficult.

They didn’t go into a lot of detail other than what I stated in the post above... just that they ve seen issues with them on occasion. I don’t want to believe them because I want to try and squeeze every last hp out of it but the fact they both stated it without me asking when I mentioned installing them has me shying away.

Have you considered the slightly oversize TBs provided by Syno? 63mm, maybe not as much of an issue as 70 and still less of a "neck down"

I had not because I wasn’t aware until doing a quick search after your post. Sounds like a more viable path with less risk, more economical as well. Thanks for the recommendation!

My tuner warned me about larger throttle bodies. I ignored him, had Syno (Scott) port and polish my stock TBs out to 63mm, did a bunch of other mods and then got a tune. Not only do they work great, my Z was one of the higher HP NA 370s my Tuner had ever worked on. Even without a tune they didn't cause any idle issues.

I did have to do the idle relearn with mine, but yeah, no other issues for me. I ran them for about 3 weeks prior to my tune with no problem. I was 334 whp/278 wtq prior to adding my LW flywheel, so sitting pretty close to 340 whp at this point.

Nice! Glad to hear the intake upgrade and air guide work together with either the Z1 bar or the tow bar. I may have to add these...

They're a pretty easy mod to do also (the intake upgrades, I can't speak to the air guide).

The intake guide is straight forward as well and easy to do in conjunction with the race intake upgrades, especially since you already have the front fascia removed. I don’t think the intake guide would work with the FI tow bar since it is bolted to the underside of the stock crash bar. I’m sure if your savvy you could rig it up fine. This was one of the main reasons I went with Z1’s crash bar modification service. It’s also cheaper, safer and can still be used with the front bumper foam (this was important to me since I primarily use my Nismo as a street car), there also wasn’t substantial weight savings since the stock tow bar is aluminum and is already light. Z1 also turned it quickly and I shipped and had the modded crash bar back to me in 3-4days.

When it comes time to rebuild, go with Forged pistons with 12.5:1 and I beat you will hit 400+hp at the wheel. You may want to upgrade the rods too but the factory ones may be just fine. I would use better rod bolts though.

This is what the tow bar and intakes look like. Not sure if the air guide would fit my oil cooler. Used the tow bar to clear the intakes and oil cooler as both either didn't clear or were too close to fit paper through.

Nice - I’m installing an oil cooler when it gets warm. I may have the j take upgrade by that point and can let you know how/if they fit with the air guide

Most oil cooler kits are Series 6 style 34 rows. This one is a series 1 72 row. The 34 rows are more square and sit back near the radiator

Gotcha - mine is a 25-row. Sounds like it should fit. Fingers crossed!

after of year of sitting on the shelf the C2 cam is going in the car in April..
i will have a before and after dyno... but i will be adding a lower ported plenum at the time as well.

Lower ported is a waste of time and money for anything NA and stock compression. You should be that money into a ported upper.

i have a ported Plenum and throttle bodies..

I use a m370 on a stock intake, with stillen G3 on a the stock 3.7 block test pipes, and stillen exhaust.
it did not loose any top end power and the bottom, mid . and top end are way better than the stock one.
it made more power all the way through the rpm range. on my Cobb tune. 309 rwhp. 7 AT. base line 264 rwhp.
look at my 1/4 mile times and my trap speed. It made a big difference in my 60 ft time, 1.80 sec.
looking at the new JWT cams. for the 4.5 stroker

Z

before and After dyno will be done
here are my list of Mods before i install the C2 Cam..
Car will be dropped off at Seb at SpecialtyZ for install End of March
list of current mods
Ceramic Coated Z1 Headers
Stillen Gen 3 with Velocity stacks
Berk high Flow Cats
Ark Exhaust
Ported Stock Plenum
Ported Throttle Bodies
Ecutek Tuned
4.08 gears

Mods to be installed
Jim Wolf C2 cam
New Oil Pump to put the new Boundary Engineering VHR Billet Pump Gears in and Raise reline to 7900k
VQ37VHR Water Pump to replace the old one while the motor is out
Ported Lower Plenum to replace stock one
new Radiator Hoses
new spark plus
Bde Motor Mounts
FI HFC and Exhaust
vibra technics Transmission Mount

Upper ported or no?

yes the upper is ported

I was really just wanting to get some more power out of it to enjoy while I saved money along. The future of this car, all things permitting, is for it to be force fed. There are a lot of great kits out there that I've looked at, but after what Forged Performance and FI posted up on instagram yesterday, there seems to be one clear option. :eek:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BthF0yXH..._web_copy_link

You better ready to drop some coin you want to attain those power levels. That’s a 40-50k build and I felt like all aspect still were not covered to support that power.

Maybe not that much but from scratch no less than 35k. Regardless get to drop some serious coin!

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If I’m going that high in power I’m doing a billet crank.That FI kit isn’t cheap. That’s almost 20k right there, plus built motor to support all that is at least 10k. Plus everything thing else is at least another 10k.

LOL, you can easily spend 40k but remember not everything that glitters is not gold. I have gone back and forth on what is needed versus wants. If you want to rev in the 8k range a billet crank would be optional. That crank is 3k and a 6 month wait. More than likely something else is going fail before the crank. Let's face it when you jump to doing a high performance build all bets are off as a $15 part can cause and often does cause catastrophic failure. So with kiss and a prayer we venture were few dare.

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It doesn't have to be a $15.00 part. I've seen a #6 screw take a motor out. :icon14:

Case in point, we lost a space shuttle to a $2.50 O ring!

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Gov't o-ring? Better add some zero's behind your numbers. :rofl2:

I don't necessarily want to shoot for that power level, just that seeing that these kit are steadily being pushed is good to see. Pushing breaks stuff, which opens the opportunity to make it better. I think I'd be pretty content at about 500-550whp, personally.

I don't think I could stand the down time and not having my car for 6-8 months, a year, whatever a build like that takes...buuuuuuut if I were, I've got Kevin's # at FI. Now, about that money... :ugh:

Elmo is right... LOL Ask me how I know.

Well downtime
Is the name of the game, when it comes to building a proper motor. Why do you think great machine shops are backed 3-8 months.

That's what I'm saying. I know it's part of the process, just a part I wouldn't personally want to deal with. Having 4 figure power is fun, I'm sure. I just have a hard time thinking you can really put that down on the street. I daily my Z, but I do have a second vehicle that is available in case of down time, just not a path I think I want to venture down, at least not right now.

Everybody has a different plan for their car, and I love seeing these things pushed to know what they're capable of, but I don't have the funds or the want to. Mid 500s would likely have me totally content.

That is why you spend 1700 for a junk yard motor and build that.

Or spend 600 on a running long block:) with 9,000 miles

Just throwing this out there.. anyone think 3 inch intakes would be better for more power than stillen Gen 3 once the cam in is..since i have ported 63mm throttle bodies ported Upper and Lower Manifold as well

You'd be lucky to see a difference of more than 1-2hp, if anything at all.