CJM Oil Pan

phunk

came in today to get the weekends payments processed and pack up the ones that are ready to go

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derraj06

I'll send payment tomorrow most likely. Still have payroll issues...

derraj06

Paid.

phunk

The 2 BLUE anodized pans including yours are being prepped for anodizing today. They should be with the anodizer about Friday. Hopefully its not too long before we see them back.

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derraj06

No worries phunk, I'm 3k out from my next service interval. After all the patience you have shown me, I will not be rushing you by any means.

Thanks for the update.

ENT-Z

paid!

phunk

Photo of the -10 o-ring ports on the side attached.

Starting tomorrow I will have the paid units with side ports begin shipping. The plugs and adapters I ordered for those ports will be here tomorrow.

Attached Images

IMG_3460.JPG (144.1 KB, 24 views)

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jwick

Guess it's time for me to pay so shipping can happen

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

phunk

Since yours has to be anodized, there is no rush on your part yet.

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jwick

No worries. Looking back at the details list for my fittings, and this might be a obvious, the -6AN should be a male fitting for a swivel AN hose fitting and the 1/8NPT should be a female fitting to accept my temperature probe.

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

patabq

paid for black anodized

phunk

Yes the last unit has been sold... so anyone else who wants one, I would recommend waiting a few weeks to place the order. There will be 12 more going into production in a few weeks... material is here.

edit: one more might become available, I will post up if it does

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DR_

Got my CJ oil pan today. Thanks phunk for the piece of art work! Now I have to take a crack at getting off the stock oil pan. Last time I tried I couldn't get anything in there to pry it off.
Any recommendations on what kind of gasket to use when putting it back on?

Rusty

A thin bladed screwdriver and a hammer. Once one section starts to lift. Go to another spot and try there. You don't want to put all the pressure in one spot. Also leave about 4 bolts in, loose. This way way when the pan pops loose. It won't make a mess. If you mark up the mating surface. Use a small very fine file to knock down the burr. For sealing. Use an rtv that is O2 sensor safe. I used the black rtv.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

phunk

I use permatex Ultra-Gray for oil pans. Get the stock upper pan surface totally clean. Sometimes like a scotch pad or other light abrasive can be really useful for that, along with some brake cleaner for the residue.

With the new sealant I put a small bead all the way around and then use my finger tip to spread it to the entire contact surface area a rather thin coat - it doesnt take much and all the extra will squeeze out when tightening... but you do want to make surface the entire contact area has at least some coverage to be safe.

Just before lifting the pan up, I would use a q-tip or small tool to extract most of the sealant that I can from the bolt holes... this will prevent too much of the sealant getting into the threads which can be troublesome and cause over-torqueing as it lubricates the threads.

Go light on the oil drain plug... its just aluminum threads so it will not withstand over-torqueing too much. I can try and come up with a torque spec for it with some more testing but most people just do it be feel anyway.

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