DIY: STILLEN G3 Intakes

Snakes709 · 03-22-2010, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by propyl

I just did this this weekend and searched all over this site for help, unfortunately i never found this topic. Perhaps that's because Stillen is spelled incorrectly in the topic title. Perhaps an Admin can fix that up. None the less great job on the write up and everything said here is true.

Only thing I can add to any of this would be

1 you really dont need to remove the cross bar to get the stock intakes out so you could save a little time not hassling with that.

2 the bumper isn't as scary as it seems. It's really light and pops right off as stated.

3 be ready to reprogram your power windows after you hook your battery back up. Link to that here.
Window won't come up due to programming?

Thanks for adding those 2 in but i already stated that everything (not just your windows) has to be reprogramed.

bucketman · 03-25-2010, 01:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakes709

you what, what, in the what, what? lol. Please explain that better...you shouldnt have to tape anything, if so...u might have issues in the future. Also u dont need a deep socket to take the strut bar and engine cover off, a simple 10mm and 14mm socket will do

I just pulled a Gen3 off of a friends car.....just in time. The drivers side tube was wearing thru the a/c line. I guess over time the tube will shift or the original installer didn't cut the hole tight enough. A little piece of rubber hose over the a/c line sounds like cheap insurance. DSC00211.jpg

Kev T · 03-25-2010, 11:22 AM

Great info, but why disconnect the battery in the first place ? surely with ignition off and ensuring the electrical connectors are clean and covered there is no need to worry about battery and consequently reprogramming.

kartman · 03-26-2010, 03:52 PM

OK... I just order my G3 kit...

I have concerns about removing the front bumper. I read the DIY and it seems reasonably easy but there was mention of adding images for clarity. Anyone know where I might be able to get some pics to ease my mind?

Love this site... nice to be surrounded by others that think the 370z is a sweet ride.

This last image that has wear on the AC line concerns me a bit though. Any further advice/tips/comments/warnings/etc are welcome. I'd like to do this right the first time.

bucketman · 03-26-2010, 09:41 PM

I don't have a pics of removal, guess I could take some. As far as the rubbing goes, the stillen unit doesn't bolt up to anything, its just kind of wedged in there. I would think cutting the hole as tight as possible would help with the rubbing issue. It may also be that the a/c line could be a little higher or lower depending on the individual car. Putting a small piece of fuel line hose on the a/c line will be really easy and would stop any destructive rubbing. I would not worry about it to much, the car in the picture had the hole hawged out pretty good, the rubbing took place over about 8-10,000 miles. A small piece of hose would have stopped all the problems.

kartman · 03-27-2010, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucketman

I don't have a pics of removal, guess I could take some. As far as the rubbing goes, the stillen unit doesn't bolt up to anything, its just kind of wedged in there. I would think cutting the hole as tight as possible would help with the rubbing issue. It may also be that the a/c line could be a little higher or lower depending on the individual car. Putting a small piece of fuel line hose on the a/c line will be really easy and would stop any destructive rubbing. I would not worry about it to much, the car in the picture had the hole hawged out pretty good, the rubbing took place over about 8-10,000 miles. A small piece of hose would have stopped all the problems.

I'm likely just being paranoid but pics of the bumper removal would be appreciated as this is the thing that ranks at the top of my concern list when doing this mod... I really don't want to damage anything cosmetic when removing the bumper.

The car is not handy at the moment. Is the A/C line on the drivers side accessible with the stock airboxes in place? I'm wondering about the diameter of the line so I can track down a piece of tubing that has a similar ID for protection when I get to the install.

thanx in advance.

kartman · 03-28-2010, 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucketman

I just pulled a Gen3 off of a friends car.....just in time. The drivers side tube was wearing thru the a/c line. I guess over time the tube will shift or the original installer didn't cut the hole tight enough. A little piece of rubber hose over the a/c line sounds like cheap insurance. Attachment 10762

One specific question that relates to this post... Not that it matters as I've already ordered the G3 kit but, when you say "pulled a G3 off of a friends car", did you just reinstall the stock air boxes or was it replaced with a different intake kit?

I'd like to know if the cutting of the dam for the larger Stillen intakes is reverseable to put the car back to stock.

thanx.

bucketman · 03-28-2010, 01:18 PM

He has two 370z's. One had all the mods which we are swapping to his other car. Yes the stock air boxes and tubing went back in, no problems. The a/c line is not accessible with the front bumper on, it is on the front side of the core. The only two area's everybody is nervous about is removing the 10mm bolt that is behind the inner wheel well and the plastic cover over the windshield side of the strut or tower bar. Everything else is just plastic clips and small bolts. I'll try to post some pics later today of these two area's

bucketman · 03-28-2010, 08:21 PM

Here is the pics. Remove the plastic clip, then pullout the inner fender liner. Remove the 10mm bolt, then the squimish part, grab the bumper cover and give it a hard tug, the clips will pop right out. Of course this after you have removed all the other push pins and bolts.The other pics are of the cover over the strut bar, after removing the two push pins, just pry or yank up, there are a bunch of clips as you can see, just takes some muscle. Good luck.

kartman · 03-28-2010, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bucketman

Here is the pics. Remove the plastic clip, then pullout the inner fender liner. Remove the 10mm bolt, then the squimish part, grab the bumper cover and give it a hard tug, the clips will pop right out. Of course this after you have removed all the other push pins and bolts.The other pics are of the cover over the strut bar, after removing the two push pins, just pry or yank up, there are a bunch of clips as you can see, just takes some muscle. Good luck.

Awesome... thanx so much... this looks OK to me... when you tug on the bumper to remove, where are the clips underneath? How many? Where should I be grabbing? Whole bumper in one tug or L-side then R-side?

I think I can figure it from here but any answers to the above might make it much less trial and error.

bucketman · 03-28-2010, 10:17 PM

The clips slip right into the fender,in between the light and outside. Grab the fender on the outside edge just below the fender and give a tug..pop. After you have everything else loose, do one side at a time. Be ready for the nose to be in your lap after you do the second side, its not heavy it just comes at you,. Good luck!

Snakes709 · 03-29-2010, 12:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kev T

Great info, but why disconnect the battery in the first place ? surely with ignition off and ensuring the electrical connectors are clean and covered there is no need to worry about battery and consequently reprogramming.

It's best to unplug the battery so the ECU will reset and learn what new parts you just installed. Has happend to other cars that you install a intake without disconnecting the battery, the intakes flow better air but the ECU detects a change and either A. doesnt change anything so you get no gains or B. detects the change and throws a code. Doesnt ALWAYS happen but i had it happen on my other car.

As for the bumper removel. Few bolts on the bottom, few on push pins on top and 2 in the wheel wheel, 2 screws (one in each well behind the liner) and the bumper can be pulled off. Its really not that hard. Just follow the DIY and it should take u a few hours to do everything.

djpathfinder · 04-21-2010, 02:33 AM

On the top of the filters, it says "caution - oil before using". Did you guys spray oil before installing? I've had other K&N filters before and they've been pre-oiled and ready to use.

Snakes709 · 04-22-2010, 11:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djpathfinder

On the top of the filters, it says "caution - oil before using". Did you guys spray oil before installing? I've had other K&N filters before and they've been pre-oiled and ready to use.

Mine are K&N pre-oiled filters so i never had to do that, if i wash them ill have to re-oil it though.

Josh@STILLEN · 04-22-2010, 11:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by djpathfinder

On the top of the filters, it says "caution - oil before using". Did you guys spray oil before installing? I've had other K&N filters before and they've been pre-oiled and ready to use.

All K&N's come pre-oiled, including the ones we use with the Gen 3's.. I think that's a newer warning for those cleaning them..

03-26-2010, 03:52 PM	#34 (permalink)
kartman Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Ottawa Posts: 6 Drives: 09 Nissan 370Z RD M6 Rep Power: 15	Just ordered... Reading to be ready... OK... I just order my G3 kit... I have concerns about removing the front bumper. I read the DIY and it seems reasonably easy but there was mention of adding images for clarity. Anyone know where I might be able to get some pics to ease my mind? Love this site... nice to be surrounded by others that think the 370z is a sweet ride. This last image that has wear on the AC line concerns me a bit though. Any further advice/tips/comments/warnings/etc are welcome. I'd like to do this right the first time.

04-21-2010, 02:33 AM	#43 (permalink)
djpathfinder A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Edmonton, Canada Posts: 12,910 Drives: 2012 GT-R BE Rep Power: 733	On the top of the filters, it says "caution - oil before using". Did you guys spray oil before installing? I've had other K&N filters before and they've been pre-oiled and ready to use. __________________ 2012 GT-R Black Edition Jet Black 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary // SOLD

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
[WTB] Stillen Gen 3 Intakes	ShockWave	Parts for sale (Private Classifieds)	4	04-26-2012 10:18 PM
WTB: Stillen G3 Intakes or K&N Typhoon intakes!	gromano	Parts for sale (Private Classifieds)	5	07-15-2010 08:38 PM
Wtb - stillen exhaust / stillen intakes / berk cats	xbigb4ller69z	Wanted	0	03-24-2010 11:39 PM
FI 12" Exhaust - Stillen G3 Intakes - Stillen UD Pulley - GAINED 28kw or 37HP	bezzita	Australia/New Zealand	29	09-27-2009 12:53 PM
FI 12" Exhaust - Stillen G3 Intakes - Stillen UD Pulley - GAINED 28kw or 37HP	bezzita	Engine & Drivetrain	6	09-06-2009 05:20 PM

03-25-2010, 11:22 AM	#33 (permalink)
Kev T Base Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Surrey England Posts: 39 Drives: nissan 370z 2010 GT Rep Power: 15	Great info, but why disconnect the battery in the first place ? surely with ignition off and ensuring the electrical connectors are clean and covered there is no need to worry about battery and consequently reprogramming.

03-26-2010, 09:41 PM	#35 (permalink)
bucketman Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Prairieville,LA Posts: 306 Drives: 09 Nismo 370Z MB Rep Power: 15	I don't have a pics of removal, guess I could take some. As far as the rubbing goes, the stillen unit doesn't bolt up to anything, its just kind of wedged in there. I would think cutting the hole as tight as possible would help with the rubbing issue. It may also be that the a/c line could be a little higher or lower depending on the individual car. Putting a small piece of fuel line hose on the a/c line will be really easy and would stop any destructive rubbing. I would not worry about it to much, the car in the picture had the hole hawged out pretty good, the rubbing took place over about 8-10,000 miles. A small piece of hose would have stopped all the problems.

03-28-2010, 01:18 PM	#38 (permalink)
bucketman Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Prairieville,LA Posts: 306 Drives: 09 Nismo 370Z MB Rep Power: 15	He has two 370z's. One had all the mods which we are swapping to his other car. Yes the stock air boxes and tubing went back in, no problems. The a/c line is not accessible with the front bumper on, it is on the front side of the core. The only two area's everybody is nervous about is removing the 10mm bolt that is behind the inner wheel well and the plastic cover over the windshield side of the strut or tower bar. Everything else is just plastic clips and small bolts. I'll try to post some pics later today of these two area's

03-28-2010, 10:17 PM	#41 (permalink)
bucketman Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Prairieville,LA Posts: 306 Drives: 09 Nismo 370Z MB Rep Power: 15	The clips slip right into the fender,in between the light and outside. Grab the fender on the outside edge just below the fender and give a tug..pop. After you have everything else loose, do one side at a time. Be ready for the nose to be in your lap after you do the second side, its not heavy it just comes at you,. Good luck!