DIY: Whiteline rear differential bushings

JaysNISMO · 04-12-2016, 04:13 PM

I didnt see any mention of marking the bolts and position of the driveshaft and the axle shafts. Should those be marked so that they are in the same exact position as removed? Is it important?

YzGyz · 04-12-2016, 05:03 PM

I have removed the driveshaft multiple time and have never marked the driveshaft bolts or position prior to removing them. You take the hand break off and spin the tires to line the bolt holes up.

YzGyz

JaysNISMO · 04-12-2016, 05:14 PM

What about the axle shafts?

YzGyz · 04-12-2016, 06:03 PM

I didn't mark that either. I didn't notice if my shop did it or not either. I did come round back to watch late though. I could of miss them doing it. I really don't see why you would need to. What happens if you buy a new rear axle? Those are not marked and you don't have to replace both at the same time. You simple unbolt the old and slap on the new.

YzGyz

Tito_370Z · 04-25-2016, 12:19 AM

Thanks for the diy! I had never done anything involving a diff but this helped and the job is pretty straight forward and fun!

Anyways the center bushing was the most time consuming.
I used a hole saw to take out the middle piece but there are some tough parts in the bushing. I used a small drill bit to make holes along the outline of the hole saw to make it a bit easier.

To put in the whiteline bushing i just greased it up and used a hose clamp like the ones you would use on aftermarket intakes. Just tighten the hose clamp along the center of the bushing to squeeze it, then it slides in pretty easy with a hammer or mallet. The clamp slides off as the bushing goes into the subframe.

I wouldve taken pictures but i honestly wasnt sure if my method would even work :/

NewfoundZ · 07-13-2016, 12:48 PM

Thanks for the DIY, just installed my whiteline diff bushings yesterday, like everyone mentioned the center bushing was the most time consuming. I found a pencil grinder with a course burr bit worked the best for removing the old bushing(very messy though) then used a reciprocating saw to cut out the old steel ring.

Huge difference with the new bushing installed, no rattle what so ever, and next to no wheel hope. excellent upgrade!!

johnwiki · 07-13-2016, 02:17 PM

Did mine last week, also found the DIY incredibly helpful. I drilled enough of the rubber away to get a saws-all in, cut the metal ring and the whole thing just fell out. Definitely used 2 door stryke plates and the diff washers to press the bushing in. Cant thank OP enough.

Jayhovah · 01-11-2017, 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by conmam

Here is a very simple tool that I fabricated ( Took me 15 minutes to do a good fabrication job) in order to drive that stupid vent pipe into the Nismo diff cover. This tool works every time rather that getting my head beat out banging the breather pipe in while trying to align it.

Simply take your 3/8 inch drive 9mm socket and carefully cut out the part shown in order to accommodate the part of the pipe sticking up. Drive the breather pipe in nice and straight.....

I took your idea but like some others, did not want to sacrifice a socket... I found this little pipe coupling in the plumbing department of the hardware store... it was a couple of bucks.

I drilled a hole through it so I could flip it 180 degrees to make sure I was tapping the vent tube in evenly. Worked great, thanks for the idea.

04-12-2016, 04:13 PM	#46 (permalink)
JaysNISMO Base Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: SoCal Posts: 11 Drives: 2010 370Z NISMO #655 Rep Power: 42	I didnt see any mention of marking the bolts and position of the driveshaft and the axle shafts. Should those be marked so that they are in the same exact position as removed? Is it important? __________________ 2010 370Z NISMO #655 Stillen \| MCA Suspension \| SPL \| Motordyne \| JWT

04-12-2016, 05:03 PM	#47 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 62	I have removed the driveshaft multiple time and have never marked the driveshaft bolts or position prior to removing them. You take the hand break off and spin the tires to line the bolt holes up. YzGyz __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz

04-12-2016, 05:14 PM	#48 (permalink)
JaysNISMO Base Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: SoCal Posts: 11 Drives: 2010 370Z NISMO #655 Rep Power: 42	What about the axle shafts? __________________ 2010 370Z NISMO #655 Stillen \| MCA Suspension \| SPL \| Motordyne \| JWT

04-12-2016, 06:03 PM	#49 (permalink)
YzGyz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Houston Posts: 1,449 Drives: 2010 Nismo Rep Power: 62	I didn't mark that either. I didn't notice if my shop did it or not either. I did come round back to watch late though. I could of miss them doing it. I really don't see why you would need to. What happens if you buy a new rear axle? Those are not marked and you don't have to replace both at the same time. You simple unbolt the old and slap on the new. YzGyz __________________ http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...gyzs-turn.html YzGyz

07-13-2016, 02:17 PM	#52 (permalink)
johnwiki Base Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: California Age: 32 Posts: 66 Drives: 2011 Gun Metallic Z Rep Power: 11	Did mine last week, also found the DIY incredibly helpful. I drilled enough of the rubber away to get a saws-all in, cut the metal ring and the whole thing just fell out. Definitely used 2 door stryke plates and the diff washers to press the bushing in. Cant thank OP enough. __________________ Mods: Z1 CAI, Fast Intentions HFC + Cat Back, 4.08 Gears + VLSD Swap, Southbend DxD Clutch+lightweight flywheel = 310 HP 285 ft/lbs

04-25-2016, 12:19 AM	#50 (permalink)
Tito_370Z Base Member Join Date: Mar 2016 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 4 Drives: 10 Nissan 370Z 6MT Rep Power: 9	Thanks for the diy! I had never done anything involving a diff but this helped and the job is pretty straight forward and fun! Anyways the center bushing was the most time consuming. I used a hole saw to take out the middle piece but there are some tough parts in the bushing. I used a small drill bit to make holes along the outline of the hole saw to make it a bit easier. To put in the whiteline bushing i just greased it up and used a hose clamp like the ones you would use on aftermarket intakes. Just tighten the hose clamp along the center of the bushing to squeeze it, then it slides in pretty easy with a hammer or mallet. The clamp slides off as the bushing goes into the subframe. I wouldve taken pictures but i honestly wasnt sure if my method would even work :/

07-13-2016, 12:48 PM	#51 (permalink)
NewfoundZ Base Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Newfoundland, Canada Posts: 2 Drives: '11 370z 6MT Rep Power: 10	Thanks for the DIY, just installed my whiteline diff bushings yesterday, like everyone mentioned the center bushing was the most time consuming. I found a pencil grinder with a course burr bit worked the best for removing the old bushing(very messy though) then used a reciprocating saw to cut out the old steel ring. Huge difference with the new bushing installed, no rattle what so ever, and next to no wheel hope. excellent upgrade!!

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