I didnt see any mention of marking the bolts and position of the driveshaft and the axle shafts. Should those be marked so that they are in the same exact
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04-12-2016, 04:13 PM | #46 (permalink) |
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I didnt see any mention of marking the bolts and position of the driveshaft and the axle shafts. Should those be marked so that they are in the same exact position as removed? Is it important?
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2010 370Z NISMO #655 Stillen | MCA Suspension | SPL | Motordyne | JWT |
04-12-2016, 05:03 PM | #47 (permalink) |
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I have removed the driveshaft multiple time and have never marked the driveshaft bolts or position prior to removing them. You take the hand break off and spin the tires to line the bolt holes up.
YzGyz |
04-12-2016, 06:03 PM | #49 (permalink) |
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I didn't mark that either. I didn't notice if my shop did it or not either. I did come round back to watch late though. I could of miss them doing it. I really don't see why you would need to. What happens if you buy a new rear axle? Those are not marked and you don't have to replace both at the same time. You simple unbolt the old and slap on the new.
YzGyz |
04-25-2016, 12:19 AM | #50 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the diy! I had never done anything involving a diff but this helped and the job is pretty straight forward and fun!
Anyways the center bushing was the most time consuming. I used a hole saw to take out the middle piece but there are some tough parts in the bushing. I used a small drill bit to make holes along the outline of the hole saw to make it a bit easier. To put in the whiteline bushing i just greased it up and used a hose clamp like the ones you would use on aftermarket intakes. Just tighten the hose clamp along the center of the bushing to squeeze it, then it slides in pretty easy with a hammer or mallet. The clamp slides off as the bushing goes into the subframe. I wouldve taken pictures but i honestly wasnt sure if my method would even work :/ |
07-13-2016, 12:48 PM | #51 (permalink) |
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Thanks for the DIY, just installed my whiteline diff bushings yesterday, like everyone mentioned the center bushing was the most time consuming. I found a pencil grinder with a course burr bit worked the best for removing the old bushing(very messy though) then used a reciprocating saw to cut out the old steel ring.
Huge difference with the new bushing installed, no rattle what so ever, and next to no wheel hope. excellent upgrade!! |
07-13-2016, 02:17 PM | #52 (permalink) |
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Did mine last week, also found the DIY incredibly helpful. I drilled enough of the rubber away to get a saws-all in, cut the metal ring and the whole thing just fell out. Definitely used 2 door stryke plates and the diff washers to press the bushing in. Cant thank OP enough.
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01-11-2017, 09:59 PM | #53 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I drilled a hole through it so I could flip it 180 degrees to make sure I was tapping the vent tube in evenly. Worked great, thanks for the idea.
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