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DIY: Air conditioning for your Sump!.......

Originally Posted by Jon@Altered PM replied! Just like the older Z33/V35 chassis, the Z34/V36 Oil Pan Spacer is interchangeable! Score! There ya go!

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Old 06-22-2009, 02:51 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon@Altered View Post
PM replied! Just like the older Z33/V35 chassis, the Z34/V36 Oil Pan Spacer is interchangeable!
Score! There ya go!
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Old 06-22-2009, 03:35 PM   #17 (permalink)
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It's ordered, should be here in time for the oil change
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Old 06-22-2009, 04:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I've been thinking about trying something like this out, especially with the vent combo.

custom heatsink extruded aluminum

It's pretty much a huge CPU heatsink and at only $26 it's worth a try in my opinion. Looks like this company makes custom sizes too .Easily installable/removable because you'd attach it on the bottom of the oil pan.
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I had placed this post in one of Modshack's threads, but it was the wrong thread! Sorry, it's deleted from that thread.

ARC Cool Fin

Now people might think this is joke, but ARC is a very serious company.

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Old 02-19-2010, 12:19 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Is there any reason to keep the bottom plastic shroud? Or even a better question, any other drivers out there who ride around without the bottom shroud installed?
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Old 02-19-2010, 01:53 PM   #21 (permalink)
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i believe the bottom plastic shroud is there for aerodynamic reasons and also keeps the engine and under the car clean.
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Old 06-22-2010, 11:41 PM   #22 (permalink)
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That ARC cool fin looks ghetto, but the reasoning behind it is sound -- there's nothing special about cooling fins, but they do make a big difference and these can be easily added onto a surface.

I might just try these out.

Pretty inexpensive experiment... ARC Cool Fin: Evasive Motorsports | PH: 626.336.3400 Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm PST
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Old 07-19-2010, 04:43 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Thread Revival:

Decided to order the Arc Cooling Fins to see if they really work. Will post a full report here later
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Old 07-19-2010, 06:45 PM   #24 (permalink)
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you are adding a vent to feed air over the fins, correct?
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Old 07-19-2010, 06:55 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenchan View Post
you are adding a vent to feed air over the fins, correct?
Possibly. Depending on how much clearance there is between the pan and the undertray, it shouldn't make that much of a difference. Drilling a few vent holes should be sufficient.
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Old 07-19-2010, 07:59 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Guys, fiddling with the under-engine shrouding affects thge air-pressure behind the radiator and can affect the amount of air drawn thru the radiator .... you might be cooling the sump. but you may also be affecting the efficiency of the radiator .... take care to monitor engine coolant temps with mods like this.

I drove a Ford XR8 Ute (Oz spec "truck") with the hood unlatched (on the safety catch) for only 4 klicks having filled the washer bottle at a freeway services area several years ago, and was puzzled as to why the coolant temps were elevated ... had gone from normal 92DegC to 105DegC .... it was because air was going over the top of the radiator and pressuring ithe engine bay behind the radiator and radiator efficiency was compromised ... same thing can happen if you are letting air into the engine bay from below.
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Old 07-20-2010, 06:49 AM   #27 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGTV8 View Post
Guys, fiddling with the under-engine shrouding affects thge air-pressure behind the radiator and can affect the amount of air drawn thru the radiator .... you might be cooling the sump. but you may also be affecting the efficiency of the radiator .... take care to monitor engine coolant temps with mods like this.

I drove a Ford XR8 Ute (Oz spec "truck") with the hood unlatched (on the safety catch) for only 4 klicks having filled the washer bottle at a freeway services area several years ago, and was puzzled as to why the coolant temps were elevated ... had gone from normal 92DegC to 105DegC .... it was because air was going over the top of the radiator and pressuring ithe engine bay behind the radiator and radiator efficiency was compromised ... same thing can happen if you are letting air into the engine bay from below.
Hmm. Good point. I'll leave the underplastics intact then. I didn't think it would matter anyway -- the fins will still transfer heat away from the pan.
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Old 07-21-2010, 10:26 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BGTV8 View Post
Guys, fiddling with the under-engine shrouding affects thge air-pressure behind the radiator and can affect the amount of air drawn thru the radiator .... you might be cooling the sump. but you may also be affecting the efficiency of the radiator .... take care to monitor engine coolant temps with mods like this.

I drove a Ford XR8 Ute (Oz spec "truck") with the hood unlatched (on the safety catch) for only 4 klicks having filled the washer bottle at a freeway services area several years ago, and was puzzled as to why the coolant temps were elevated ... had gone from normal 92DegC to 105DegC .... it was because air was going over the top of the radiator and pressuring ithe engine bay behind the radiator and radiator efficiency was compromised ... same thing can happen if you are letting air into the engine bay from below.
Based on hard Data this would not seem to be a concern. Very little air is being introduced at the sump vent and it is close to where air is being extracted from the rear of the lower cover.. I've monitored my water temps with an accurate digital Scangauge for over a year now and this engine typically runs pretty cool...178-182 thermostatic controlled degrees with or without the vent. I agree that propping the hood open from the front as you describe is not a good idea and does significantly screw up the designed flow pattern, BUT introducing some air at the rear of the hood can be very beneficial at reducing engine bay temps with no affect on engine cooling numbers. Removing the Gasket at the point the hood meets the rear of the engine bay promotes flow into the bay and out the bottom. My Digital datalogging on two cars now, an Audi TT that runs hot, and an LS3 Corvette, has shown a reduction in these bay temps af around 18 degrees, again, with no impact on engine water temps. I haven't logged the Z temps, but here's a chart from my Audi experiments. (Cold start-up, light traffic, country roads, and heat soaking idle upon return)



On the Audi, this difference prolongs the Wiring and Vac lines (both problematic in this turbo'd car.

Gaskets on the Z:
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:36 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Finally got the Arc cool fins in the mail. Will affix them next oil change if not sooner. Will let you guys know whether they make a difference once I have a chance to get them on the bottom of the oil pan
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Old 09-25-2010, 06:33 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quick update -- I have the cool fins on. As soon as they were afixed, you could feel heat being pulled off of the oil pan.

Now I also switched to 0-w30 Castrol, so not 100% certain that the cool fins are soley responsible for this, but after romping on it very hard in 90* F FL heat, oil temps stayed below 220 the whole time

I'll monitor temps suring normal driving and report more later
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