Got mine today and installed in minutes, works as designed. One note, the tab to remove OEM plug is on top, I fiddled a little trying to remove plug until I found it. I can relax now and not worry about getting stranded.

Hi,

Do not regret the harness ... a fifty well spent!

The harness or cut the wire: the best solution by far.

On another "for real" thread, there's regrets about the harness 50 USD.

I would not suggest a DIY-er go anywhere near the IPDM area or its fuses.
Lifting it out spells problems for amateurs. Wiring disconnects or shorts, or simple fatigue without great gentle care, can cost a fortune.

"fuse" sounds great but they are not at all easy to get at amidst a maze of wiring and relays. The IPDM is "not serviceable" (fuses apart) is expensive, and your dealer may ask embarassing questions about a missing fuse at the heart of your electrical systems.

Further you can change nothing without much work and interference with the IPDM, but can change everything in minutes with a cut wire, especially on a harness.

Fritz

Why don't you read the wiring diagram Fritz and get back with us on the other thread.

I would love to hear your explanation of when fuse 48 is removed the damage it will do.

Tic doc clocks ticking.:rolleyes:

Please explain how installing the harness as you did is any different from pulling a fuse. Both cut power to the source. A dealer may also have a hugh problem installing a harness in such a manner.

I guess we all should stop modding period.

Ordered and paid. Thanks for developing this item. Owners with this harness seem pleased. Looking forward to it. :driving:

I've resisted posting too much on any of these threads because I didn't want to be seen as biased. Despite what some people may think I made very little to nothing on this and really only created it when existing customers of my other kits asked if I could help. If there is no further interest in the harness I will simply just stop offering them so please don't see this as favoring one solution over another.

Anyway, to answer the question that a couple of people have asked; I did point out in the other thread what the difference was. Fritz's solution is to cut the power to the steering lock unit, my harness does exactly the same but doesn't require the harness itself to be cut. Removing the fuse is different in that it cuts the power further upstream and the one difference that I could see (doesn't mean there aren't others) is that:

• When you pull the fuse the relay isn't activated anymore (that may not matter)
• The feed from the relay goes to 1) The CPU (see blue arrow below) and 2) the Steering lock

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-J...4327pm-BDL.png

So the difference is:

• When cutting the wire (whether actually or via harness) it simply removes power from the steering lock
• When pulling the fuse it stops power going to the relay, the CPU and the steering lock.

I have my theories of what the feed to the CPU is but they are just that, theories. I suspect that the feed to the CPU is to confirm that the relay activated and the power is going to the steering lock. When cutting the wire the CPU will still get that signal but the steering lock doesn't get the power. I know it is has been confirmed that the "pull the fuse" method doesn't throw a CEL but has anyone connected a Consult III/IV and seen if it gives any errors? I would expect the CPU to log the fact that it issued the command to activate the relay (wire above the blue arrow) but it doesn't get the feed (blue arrow) to confirm it was energized. I'm speaking from experience of what I would do if I was writing the CPU code but that doesn't mean Nissan did the same.

Again I really don't mind what solution people use, I'm just pointing out the differences as people have asked. The harness is certainly the most expensive in terms of parts at $50, but then of course it would be because we are adding something not taking something away. I do believe the harness has more pros than the other solutions and probably the only con is the cost and that was kept as cheap as possible.

Thanks again for your all your hard work sir. :tiphat:

Well said. Very understandable.

I will vouch for the quality of BDL99's harness. If you bought something like this at an auto parts store, it would cost you double, at Nissan probably triple. I am happy with my purchase.

I read about the fuse pull solution after I ordered the harness. I contemplated pulling the fuse while I waited, but decided to wait for two reasons. One is I wanted to wait to see if there were any side effects on the fuse pull (there is, a delay from start button push until crank for some) and the fuse box is not one that has easy access like under the dash or top of the engine bay.

So if you have not made a move to disable the steering lock, you can pull the steering lock fuse which currently seems to cause a slight delay in engine start or buy the harness. One is free and the other cost you 50 bucks. I would maybe wait some to see if there is more info on the fuse pull delay, especially if your car is still in warranty.

I would say the harness install would be easier having reviewed both instructions and having done the harness install. Tugging up and out on the battery compartment fusebox attached to the main wiring harness worried me a little but would not have prevented me from doing it if that was the only solution.

If you have the troubled older steering lock, ya got to do one of the two or you are sitting on a time bomb ready to go off at the worse time and location and it will cost you over 500 bucks plus wrecker.

I'd be happy to remove the hole steering lock if I could. I know it can be done somehow. But...........

got mine in the mail today and just finished installing it. very simple and worth the money IMHO. Thanks again and rep coming your way. :tup:

I second this :tup:

:roflpuke2::bowrofl::tup: repped

Thanks for all the positive feedback, I really appreciate it and makes it all worthwhile

cheers,
Brian

Thank you for all your help.... :tiphat:

Stay unlocked my friends!

:roflpuke2:

I received mine yesterday. Thanks for including printed instructions, I put them in the pouch with the owner's manual in the hatch area. Installation was a piece'o'cake, took longer to readjust my seat than it did to install. No problems noted, I started and stopped the car and checked function (or lack thereof) about 10 times. It may take a few days to get used to not hearing the bzzzzt when the lock functioned. Good job Brian, rep added for you.

My tracking info says mine should be here tomorrow.

Attachment 48337

No longer bypassing steering lock
 

I received my bypass harness and installed it yesterday. After the work was completed, I verified the lock no longer engaged and went for a drive. What I noticed almost immediately was the throttle response lost some of its zing, i.e., the pedal had to be depressed further to make the car go. It was subtle but noticeable to me and even more noticeable with the AC on. So after driving the car today, with the harness in still bypass, with the AC on in 96 degree heat it became more evident to me the relative sluggishness of the throttle was not present before the harness was installed.
So I reconnected the brown wires and confirmed the lock was working and went for a drive. I noticed immediately the throttle response was back to its quickness.
I'm not sure what's happening when the brown wire is open but it seems to be having a negative impact on the drivability of my 370Z AT/2011.

I do appreciate all the work put into this solution.

Weird. I burned my tires on 40 mph roll earlier tonight. No difference for me.

:facepalm: ... psychosomatic

Agreed. That wire should have absolutely nothing to do with your acceleration as it is not connected to anything that would effect it.

I agree. It should not based on what is known. But I know my car. I intend to remove the fuse since the difference is it removes power from the computer as well. If it works I'll comment about it.

True. Stranger things have happened lol. On the 350 forums there were people who swore up and down that their car would run slower when one of the driving lights were blown. Something about it creates a draw on the ecu and some other stuff that I cannot remember.

But like you said you know your car. Try plugging the OEM harness back into the steering lock and pulling the fuse and see what that does.

Is this is all you can say, then you are too self-assured about knowledge.

Installed BDL's kit yesterday. Hardest thing about the install is becoming a contortionist to maneuver both hands under the dash :icon14:

Simple install and I can rest easy that the Z will not leave me stranded

Before doing that or drawing any conclusions it would be better to get a bigger sample size if you can, you currently have an n=1 based on what you said. The beauty of the plug and play harness is it can easy be restored to factory state either by re-connecting the brown wire (as you did) or completely remove the harness. There are so many other variables here that could be in play (fuel, temp, driving conditions, the throttle pedal is close to where you are installing etc) and when measuring something subjective this is also even harder. Temporarily installing a switch would allow you to compare with and without brown wire connected much more easily and also remove some of those other variables. It will still be a subjective measurement but at least the n will be higher. With a switch you could even do a blind trial with a passenger controlling the state of the switch and scientifically put any psychosomatic theories to bed :)

This would be very easy to do and i'd be interested in the results.

You must not know what the word even means.:shakes head:

That was really said in jest but would be interesting. I've had my fair share of these experiences. When I was working on a front camera kit for the GT-R I was convinced there was something different after installing in my car. Either the throttle or the bite on the clutch appeared different. I was sure that I must have done something or disturbed something. Even though logic told me there was no logical connection I was all ready to rip everything out and go to the dealer. It was the wife that said "why don't you leave it and come and have a cup of tea" (very English). So I did and then went for a drive and when I got back everything was fine and nothing since. Still to this day I don't know if I imagined it or if it was just one of those DCT glitches but I automatically associated it with the the last thing that I had done.

Yep, double-blind is the only way to scientifically test if you want to take the human factor out of the equation. More than likely it was just the heat of the day robbing the car of power, it happens pretty often in high compression engines (engine pulls timing to prevent problems). It would be quick and easy to wire up a temporary switch with long leads to the passenger seat if you really want to test it.

:iagree: I think that guy should give this a try and see.

Some guys swear by power increases with an oil change. :stirthepot:

Some guys swear Seafoam works. :eek:

At least with a switch it would either put his mind to ease or identify a real problem if he completely nails the outcome.

Mine came in and the install took all of 5 mins, thanks again everything works without any problems. Many many more reps coming your way...

If I want to order, is it through your site and input my username or is it closed until more arrive? Let me know, looks like a good fix.

That's what i did, i don't know how many he has total but i'm sure he will be able to help you out.

Yes there were a couple of spares from the first batch so you can order via the website and just include you username and I will get it shipped out straight away.

What would be the procedure to reconnect the brown wire ? Would it be:
Engine off, ignition in ACC position which would tell the ECU to "unlock"
Reconnect brown wire
Ignition button back to OFF
Open car door to see if mechanism locks wheel
Ignition to Start to see if mechanism unlocks again

Thanks

Reconnecting the brown wire can be done at any time and the lock will sort its self out. It is only the disconnecting that has different results depending on the state the lock is in when the brown wire is disconnnected

Turning the switch off (disconnecting the brown wire) with the lock disengaged is what most people are looking for, where the lock isn’t in use and therefore can't fail
Turning the switch off (disconnecting the brown wire) with lock engaged would effectively be an additional security measure, because without knowing where the switch is (and turning on) you won't be able to start the car
Turning the switch on (reconnecting the brown wire) the lock will operate as normal, as if the harness was not installed


For example if you reconnected the brown wire while the lock should be off it would stay off and engage the next time it was supposed to.