Steering Lock: cut one wire. /switch optional
 

NEW SITUATION
The locks are becoming a legal requirement in some county or country annual tests. They seem to have limited operational cycle durability due to "wrong oil" "too much oil" and other Nissan excuses. Car immobilization due to lock failures causes new lock expenditure (USD 550 in USA and EUR 1500 in Europe).

MISSION: Prolong lock life. Delete small "key" warning.

EXECUTION: Eliminate (or greatly reduce later) lock operating cycles by rendering the lock non-operational. (adding a switch later switches it from inop to normal).

TOOLS: Small mirror: wire snips, small: flashlight: magnifiying glass.
A box: One foot or so square by about 3 feet long to lie on, one's head under steering lock.

HOW: Be sure the steering lock is NOT locked.
Lie on your back looking at the lock. Press its release and remove the connector. Look deep inside the connection for the numbers. Number one pin or hole should connect to a Brown wire which is next to a yellow and has a black below it.
Cut the brown (1/2"-5/8" from its connector 'cos you may want to solder it later).

ADMIN:Tape back the wire ends and re-fit the connector to the lock. Start engine. If not then the lock was engaged (locked) just re-connect the wire ends and unlock it.

RESULT: The power to the electric motor is cut. It cannot lock. It also cannot show a tell-tale in the instruments. Both internal microswitches are pressed correctly.

THE FUTURE: I fitted a switch to those two wire ends. Connected, and the lock is normal. Switched off and the lock stays in whatever position it was in when switched (which could be EXTRA anti-theft to beat electronics key- copier thievery.)

At your own risk ! ...and

Bless our legislators.


Fritz

Thanks for this information Fritz. I will look at the service manual later tonight to see if I can find the pinout schematic to help with your explanation.

Great work Fritz. The more, and easier, fixes for this issue the better.:tup:

interesting...

How did you come up with this and if it would work or not? Any pics? Good job though.

Good job Fritz:tup:

Very impressive!! This may be the greatest post yet. As someone else said...how did you come up with this? Repped!!!

After digging through the service manual I found a few things. Is it ok to show screen shots from the service manual on the forum?

Why wouldn't it be?

POSTUM UP

If this works, it's a sweet fix. Nice Fritz. I'll look for the schematics over the weekend if someone hasn't already posted them.

This is what I was able to find in the service manual. This might be helpful when combined with the information from Fritz, and the Steering lock DIY thread. Basically, this info may be relavant to some, and it might not...

This is the Steering lock connector, I have not found full schematics in the service manual as of yet. All that is needed for this is to stick your head under the dash and record the wires and locations,

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...9at92224PM.png

Here is the Steering Lock in relation to the BCM and IPDM E/R

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...9at84327PM.png

Here is a break down of the wiring, what conditions to look for and when,
This is the conditions for wires 97(L) and 98(P) these wires also goto the IPDM E/R as wire 32(L) and 33(P). The service manual lists wire 97 as S/L Condition 1 and wire 98 as S/L Condition 2. It looks as though wire 32/97 is S/L Lock and wire 33/98 is S/L Unlock

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...9at84134PM.png



Here is the condition for wire 106



http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...9at84208PM.png




Here is the condition for wire 111

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...9at84235PM.png


conditions at the BCM


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...9at84617PM.png



wire location at BCM

http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...9at84529PM.png



Diagnostics,


http://i1188.photobucket.com/albums/...9at85058PM.png


If there is something specific someone needs or wants to see, let me know and I'll do my best to find it.

Also, use your brain before you start digging around the wiring in your car, I'm not responsible for any problems you might cause or encounter from this information.

So it is as simple as making sure the wheel is unlocked first, and then cutting one wire and taping off the cut end with electrical tape so it doesn't short ? If this works I would be happy to forego the lock function rather than pay $500 for the new lock revision part or risk being stranded somewhere and have to be towed to a dealer. I probably wouldn't even wire in a new switch, especially if I don't get an error light on the dash and the car starts with the cut wire.
Who is going to be the next one to do it and report ? :pics:

Many thanks, folk, for the thank-you..s

And thanks to Gale Force too for his effort ....but

With great respect I found the shop manual a complete pain. It does not cater for such heathen manipulation of sealed steering locks and I doubt the manual writers had proper access to steering lock information anyhow.
(Nissan do not actually make the lock...made by security specialists, Huf Hulsbeck and Furst ... in the USA dontcha know... who probably hate to see this).

I got my head out of incredible repair manual confusion (partly shown in the Gale Force post) and inside the steering lock.

The electric motor in the lock is supplied by two Omron relays. The primary power source to each relay is singular (terminal #1 brown wire). As there's only one power supply it must be switchable on/off/pos/neg. That's logic.

That way the electric motor worm turns clock or anti-clock to drive a gear wheel with an internal cam which drives the lock element in or out, depending on that polarity at the motor.

Take away the power and the motor is stopped at "locked" or "unlocked".
....and for good....until power is re-applied (with any switch). The position sensors, including the one in the driver's door switch, will determine which rotation to use.

That's it: so broody difficult .. yet hindsight changes that: any questions?

Fritz

Now: who'll tell me the numbers written under the "made in" ..... on a VVEL relay? (I can tell you where it is and how to look at it (5 mins).

This is defiantly DIY of the year award.

As long as someone does it and reports back that it is good to go.:ugh2:

I believe Fritz has done this.

That's 1 I would like to see a couple of people do this before I put my car under the knife.

Fritz is right, the service manual barely mentions the Steering lock. I couldn't even find a picture of the steering lock with a reference number, maybe I don't have a complete manual? The information I posted was for the purpose of aiding in the wire modification outside of the S/L box, as I believe that's what the latest mod from Fritz suggests.

Also, the addition of the switch is only valid on a currently functional S/L control unit or a failed unit that has been opened up and fixed to the unlock position, as you need it in the unlocked position to mod as Fritz mentions.

good find electrically this all makes sense to me with what fritz is saying..........however I am going to think and try and look over any available info I can find (and GaleForce has provided) about this before I give it the snip!

Thanks, Fritz and Galeforce. When you mean the car needs to have the steering lock in the unlocked position, do you mean the car can be fully off, steering wheel just can't be turned afterwards so that it locks up?

What I gather from Fritz' post, you need the steering lock itself to not be engaged with the steering wheel/steering column. So as long as the steering wheel itself is moving freely when you want to cut the wire and add the switch, you should be ok.

Have the car in ACC mode and the steering will be unlocked.

Got it, thanks, guys. I'll have to find time to give this a try...

In for results...

Custom steering lock wiring harness
 

I'm going to e-mail BOOMslang.us and see if he can create a little steering lock wiring harness w/the TH08FW-NH connectors-of coarse missing the "brown" wire or pin 1.
With the BOOMslang wiring harness between the OEM connectors no hacking of the OEM wires!

This would kickass...:excited:

:iagree:

Count me in!

sub'd


:tup:

Nice

Thanks! Actually, can you see if they can leave all the wires included? This way we can just cut the wire ourselves, and if we choose to, can just tap it to a switch so it would be more convenient to enable/disable the steering lock power than having to unplug and connect it each time we want to change it back (say if I'm parallel parking on a hill). Just an option...

Sub'd

Originally Posted by L33T Z34
I'm going to e-mail BOOMslang.us and see if he can create a little steering lock wiring harness w/the TH08FW-NH connectors-of coarse missing the "brown" wire or pin 1.
With the BOOMslang wiring harness between the OEM connectors no hacking of the OEM wires!

Great idea ! The OE harness is too short to allow for error in cutting/wire stripping/soldering or adding any connectors for the switch.

Soldering was manageable (I'm used to it) but a wire insulation stripping error would not have made it fun.

Suggestion: add at least 6 inches. Make it 10 as "too long" is better than too short........

....axios idea to include the wire, for cutting/soldering seems
dead right.

And now I know what a TH08FW-NH connector looks like. Many thanks to
L33T Z34


Fritz

A pig tail could easily be built if there was a supplier of the male and female 8 way connectors available.

http://www.sws.co.jp/en/product/conn...pdf/nwp_nh.pdf

I can't seem to find the connectors readily available for order, anyone know where these could be purchased?

DIY of the year. Snip snip.

oh wow... this could be our answer! :tup: keep up the great work. i want to see the results. :)

L33T, any word regarding the harnesses?

Awesome. A kit would be even better!

Maybe contact the carkit guy that made our rear view camera kit and Nav hack kit. He was able to source everything OEM so it's all plug and play.......

I'm game, a couple of plugs, and some time to experiment... Let's do this.