Try hitting it with a hammer as you try to start it some guys have had success with that.

It doesn't have to be a big hammer. The side of your fist or the toe of your shoe/boot may be enough to free it up.

If you do not have the harness when you free the lock, I highly recommend that you pull the fuse until you can install it.

If you do get the lock to free up, do NOT touch the start button (leave everything on) until you install the harness (or temporarily pull the fuse).

Harness installation is very easy and pulling the fuse is not hard to do, so you shouldn't need much luck, but here's some anyway:
Good luck.

I'm thinking about just getting it towed home (AAA FTW) and letting it hangout there until the harness arrives. It is currently at the dealership. Even if I can't get it disengaged, the replacement process for the whole mechanism doesn't sound that hard and the dealer wants $1200 for it.

Also, when we first spoke this morning, the story was - "well, this is pretty rare" and when I told him I would be looking into alternatives - "we've faced this issue several times recently and". I'm beginning to think the service department is more interested in making money than providing good service...

Thanks for the luck. I ran white hot this weekend on my NFL bets, so I'm hoping I have some left!

Sounds like you have everything under control . :) If you would like to read more about SLU problems/fixes, I've started a thread with links to the threads/posts I've found on this site. Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock

If you don't trust your dealer, find one you do. Your warranty is with Nissan, so it doesn't matter which dealer you go to for warranty work. I fired the dealer I bought my 370Z from.

Nice conglomeration of information. Thanks for that.

I trust this dealer some. Not with my life, but they are literally across the street from where I work, so as long as I keep them on a short leash and stay informed, the convenience is pretty unbeatable. Unfortunately, I'm over my warranty by about 1,200 miles...

Ok, I went by the dealership, got access to the car and banged on the SLU (Rev B, btw) a few times and got nothing. Ugh.

I'm going to have it towed back to my house because they want $1,200 to install the part. I see everyone saying the part should be close to $500 but everywhere I look it is closer to $600. Is this correct? Link please, if not.

Finally, I am competent with tools, but not very experienced. On a 10 scale, how difficult is it to install the new part? The DIY looks easy to follow, but is it easy to execute?

On a scale from 1-10 with 10 being the hardest this is a 2

I haven't done the job myself, but going by reports by others who have, it's a very simple job. Apparently the bolts that hold the SLU aren't all that tight. It looks like having the proper, curved, thin-jawed pliers is the "trick". If you've ever replaced a sensor (or a spark plug, or a radiator hose, or ...) on a car, it should be a breeze.

Ok, great. I'm pretty sure I can do this swap.

Now, about acquiring the part... Other than courtesy, where are people getting these things for $500?

Only thing I know to tell you is search through the SLU threads - I don't think anyone has compiled a list. If you compile a list of SLU vendors, please post the list and be sure to add a link to it here --> Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock. You can also use that thread for your search.

OK, car is safely back at home. I'm going to wait for the harness to get in before trying to revive the SLU.

How long should I keep banging on the SLU before I give up and get the SLU ordered? I'm going to be using a rubber mallet.

actually i'd use a small metal hammer so the impact is hard and sharp to loosen the binded gears inside. just go easy on the taps so you dont deform the housing.

if you have a battery charger, i'd put that on the battery too at 2A or lower while you tap at it and press the start button. max power to steering lock. if u have a battery manager/tender, put it on the car now so you have a good charge.

i'd do the tapping as many times needed until it unlocks. nothing to loose really if it's already broken. you'll have to replace it with a working steering lock anyway to disable the system...unless you want to take it apart.

Yeah, I'm holding off ordering the replacement until I give up on getting the harness to work.

20 minutes worth of tapping/banging on it enough to call it dead?

Hey, quick question.

Before I begin hammering on the SLU, Can I install the harness and leave the brown wire connected or do I have to wait for the car to be in ACC before I disconnect the unit to install the bypass? Part of me thinks it doesn't really matter (just that the brownie is disconnected while the car is in ACC) but figured it would be good to ask.

It doesn't really matter. You can install the harness, retract the lock, and then break the brown wire. Or retract the lock and install the harness with the brown wire broken. As long as the lock is fully retracted when the brown wire is broken, you should be good to go.

Success!!

I did the headstand thing and wedged my 6'5" 265 lbs self up under there and whacked the SLU two dozen times with a hammer. Tried the button several times along the way and then finally heard the most beautiful electric whirl ever. Disconnected the red connectors and she's good to go. Saved $1200 vs the dealer's estimate. Merry Christmas my bank account! BDL is, in fact, the man.

I preemptively cut the brown wire last night.

Own a 2011 Nismo w/ 6k miles, lock was rev. C, car build date of Oct. 2010.

Thanks for all the research into this.

PLEASE HELP!!!! MY car will not start now ! If i cut the brown wire will it start? I have the flashing key, pressing the ignition switch doesn't move from acc to on . The steering is not lock though as i can turn it. Please help im stuck right now!

jumpred the batter thinking its just a dead batter but nothing happens.

removed the posive cable on the battery to reset it , same thing nothing happens so i know i have this steering lock issue also my AT shifter is stuck in park

You have to get the SLU into the the unlocked position before disabling it. Try rapping on the SLU with fist, shoe, hammer, whatever it takes and then see if ignition will go to ACC or ON. Repeat as necessary. Once SLU unlocks, do NOT turn the ignition off until you disable it. DIYs are posted for cutting the wire, installing a harness, and removing the fuse. I've collected a lot links to SLU info at http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...heel-lock.html.

my o9 failed last night. never fails 3o* outside stranded in a target parking lot at 6 pm FML!!!!!!not really knowing too many people around here and finally getting a hold of my cousin i had plenty of time roughly 1.5 hrs of researching and finding this thread. 1st we had just removed the slu in the parking lot and pushed it back into position, back at my house in the comfort of my garage we snipped the brown wire. no problems since:tiphat:i love this forum and the great people that share it!!!!!:tup:

Very please to read this and glad I could help.

Belated Merry Christmas wishes to you too and best wishes for the New Year.

I ordered mine!
 

Just ordered/paid for mine.

Received my harness yesterday! Gonna hook it up today!

I need some advice. My steering lock failed. It died while it was disengaged, so i figured i'd just remove the fuse, so i did that.
Now, the thing is that, the car still won't start even after i unplugged the negative terminal from the battery.
I need advice on what to do here to get the car to start.

Any help will be much appreciated, thanks in advance!

Hi Kamus,

I thought I answered this--maybe on another thread.
If you are still stuck, fit battery terminal firmly.
(Windows will fall down on each door closing, so read owners manual first, or re-program. Hold them all the way down for a few secs, then all the way up held for a few secs. Job done after re-setting radio stations.)

Car not starting: Fit that fuse and, if cut, reconnect the wire: then ign on
and start engine. Switch off: then ignition on again, open door but must leave ign on:
remove fuse or cut the brown wire or fit the harness and or the switch: your choice.

Fritz

Damn! ...Sorreee.

...I doubt the steering lock failed and immobilised the engine. Probably summat else as when the lock fails and the steering can turn, the engine will/should start, showing a small warning light. (See owner's handbook on this).
Essentially that is what cutting the wire, removing the fuse or fitting the switch does, but without the warning light.

Fritz

Steering lock (s/l) failed last week (3/21/13) on revised part #C. Odd thing about it, is I was planing on removing the fuse today. Oh well, could not have happened any sooner. Been driving on borrowed time. Replaced with CURRENT rev part D. Driving a 2009 sport model with 45K miles. This is the original steering lock. Total dollar out of pocket = ZERO. Extended warranty and towing picked up by extended warranty. Picking up the harness from CarKitcompany.com

I am happy you got everything going -- and for free. :tup:

Glad you got it all sorted. I sent you an email yesterday but wanted to check that you meant to order 2 harnesses? Please let me know and I will either ship out the two today or just ship one and refund for the other.

Best regards,
Brian (CarKitCompany)

no steering lock for me
 

Ordered my bypass harness and installed today. Car starts and runs fine, also a super easy install. :happydance:

Reference:
NTB13-014
Date:
March 7, 2013
VOLUNTARY SERVICE CAMPAIGN 2009 – 2011 STEERING LOCK UNIT
CAMPAIGN ID #:
APPLIED VEHICLES: 2009 – 2010 370Z (Z34)
INTRODUCTION
P3208
2009 – 2011 GTR (R35)
Check Service COMM to confirm campaign eligibility.
Nissan is conducting a Voluntary Service Campaign to replace the steering lock assembly on certain specific 2009 – 2010 model year 370Z and 2009 – 2011 model year GTR vehicles due to excessive oil within the assembly, which could cause the Body Control Module (BCM) to prevent the engine from starting when the ignition is cycled. This issue does not affect steering or engine operation when the vehicle is already running.
IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
Nissan has assigned identification number P3208 to this campaign. This number must appear on all communications and documentation of any nature dealing with this campaign.
DEALER RESPONSIBILITY
Dealers are to repair vehicles falling within range of this campaign that enter the service department. This includes vehicles purchased from private parties, vehicles presented by transient (tourists) owners, and vehicles in a dealer’s inventory
Nissan Bulletins are intended for use by qualified technicians, not 'do-it-yourselfers'. Qualified technicians are properly trained individuals who have the equipment, tools, safety instruction, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. NOTE: If you believe that a described condition may apply to a particular vehicle, DO NOT assume that it does. See your Nissan dealer to determine if this applies to your vehicle.

Doesn't help those with 2011's or the tow bill....still need to pull fuse, snip wire, or install harness.

2011's don't have the SLU.

Early 2011's did

Question is whether or not to pull the fuse after the fix has been done. Can this fix be trusted? I understand that if the SLU would again fail after the fix, they would cover but I just don't have the confidence. I plan to remove the fuse after fix.

^This^ I have a 2011 w/ SLU; Mr. Alcheng has a 2011 w/o SLU

Good call :tup: My understanding is that even the last revision of the SLU is prone to failure. I would remove the fuse regardless of whether you had the unit replaced. Also, I am quite confident the fuse is not connected to anything else because Nissan omitted both the unit and the fuse in the later models. If the fuse was working with anything else, you'd think they'd have left it in the fuse box.

Right, thanks for catching that. Maybe those few people will be contacted by Nissan when they mail out the letters to customers? It would cut down on the confusion and worry of everyone with a 2011 Z. Guess we'll find out shortly.

According to the wiring diagrams, there is a signal that comes from the line between the fuse and the SLU and goes to the BCM (or was it ECM?). As far as I know, no one has been able to ascertain the function of this signal, but it doesn't appear to be important. Many ppl, myself included, have removed the fuse with no problems.

Unless Nissan has redesigned the SLU, I am assuming that the replacements will fail soon and I will remove the fuse (will put it back in before going to dealer) after the SLU is replaced. If it turns out to be a new-and-improved SLU, the next owner can re-activate the damn thing, if they want to.

It is the BCM, and it seems to me from the post below, that this is the signal from the SLU to the car that tells it whether the lock is unlocked and the car is ready to turn on...

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ml#post2206227

I have removed my fuse along with several other people's :tup:

I don't trust it Nissan stopped installing the locks. For a reason im sticking to my bypass harness because my car starts fine