DIY: Brake rotor replacement (front)

nabenson · 02-17-2013, 05:11 PM

Thanks for the write-up. I read through it before I started and it took me less than an hour from the time I started pulling out tools until I was done putting them up.

+1 rep

cavemancan · 04-19-2013, 05:49 PM

Ok so question: Let's say you have a bit of rust. What tool or tools do you all recommend to remove the rust and make sure the rotor will not wear uneven?

ChrisSlicks · 04-19-2013, 06:17 PM

If it is rust on the edge just leave it. Rust on the hub face, just leave it and apply a very thin smear of grease to prevent it rusting to the hub. Rust on the braking surface will be gone with a few minutes of driving.

cavemancan · 04-20-2013, 11:12 AM

I mean rust on the Hub face and studs. I got brand new DBA 2 piece 5000 series rotors for the front and 1 piece 4000 series for the rear. They recommend sanding down or using a wire brush to promote even wear on the rotor. They even go as far as to recommend use of a Dial indicator to see if there is any run-out of the rotors once installed. If there is it is recommended to rotate the rotor 1 lug at a time until you get the lowest run out.

Vichtz · 05-21-2013, 09:45 PM

Just for yall who have base brakes. My rotor did not have the "anti seize pop off" screw. But the hole is still there. Coincidentally, the bolts from the bracket are the perfect size. So rather than beating your rotor, just screw that bolt into the hole in your rotor and it pops right off.

YamahaR6 · 09-23-2013, 09:52 AM

Just some pictures to add to this DYI.

Additional Tip:

1. Instead of fiddling around with a coat hanger or zip ties; I used a jack stands which is leveled to the original position.

2. The pop-off screw works great. Take it off, removed the spacer, spray a little WD40 and slowly screw it back to the hub. (Warning, it made a mark on the inside hub. Don't think it will cause any issues.)

3. Aligned the new rotors where you made the mark; so that your new rotors has the same weight distribution. (Not sure how much it matters but might as well).

The setup I went with DBA5000 and Project Mu 800.

Lots of brake dust compared to stock. Stopping power seems to be "slightly" better on initial bite.

BlueDemon · 10-13-2013, 02:11 PM

Hey guys just putting on Ichiba spacers on the front and am running into an issue with that extra bolt that is beside the studs. Do i have to knock that out because the 15mm spacer does not go on. Please help.

7speed · 10-13-2013, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueDemon

Hey guys just putting on Ichiba spacers on the front and am running into an issue with that extra bolt that is beside the studs. Do i have to knock that out because the 15mm spacer does not go on. Please help.

It just unscrews. It's there so u don't accidentally put a rear wheel on the front.

Bananaz · 10-27-2014, 09:29 AM

Just changed my front rotors and pads this weekend. Surprisingly verrryyyyy easy if you have any experience working on a car.

carlitos_370z · 09-17-2015, 08:58 AM

subscribed

nice DIY dude!

Vandy Lam · 09-22-2015, 03:54 PM

What is torque spec on our 370z?

sunkist350z · 11-23-2015, 02:18 PM

I thought removing the brake pads was not necessary to install rotors?

Kabestro · 12-15-2015, 01:37 AM

Has anybody taken the dust shields off to replace with the sport ones for the Sport BBK? Is it easy? I'll be doing this in a couple of weeks but haven't seen anybody do it yet. Don't want to trim or bend the base ones.

Kabestro · 12-23-2015, 08:08 AM

So I upgraded my base brakes with the Akebono Calipers and Z1 2 piece rotors front and back. Didn't want to trim or bend the dust shields so I bought the OEM sport ones. Front of the car real easy, remove wheel, caliper, rotor and four bolts for the hub assembly. Rear of the car you have to remove wheel, caliper, rotor, e-brake assembly, rear axel bolt and hub assembly. Pretty straight forward but some work for just dust shields. My OCD didn't allow me to bend or trim them

Here are some pictures of the rear.

Ni9TFiVE · 01-12-2016, 09:56 PM

So by removing the two 22mm bolts and this one 12mm bolt I should be able to move the caliper without breaking the brake line?

04-19-2013, 05:49 PM	#47 (permalink)
cavemancan Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Miami Posts: 302 Drives: 09 370Z TourSport MT Rep Power: 249	Ok so question: Let's say you have a bit of rust. What tool or tools do you all recommend to remove the rust and make sure the rotor will not wear uneven? __________________ Mazda Rx8 MT Titanium - SOLD! 2009 370Z T-Sport MT Black - Takeda Intake, Swift springs, Rear Camber kit, SS B Lines, FI Exhaust, Z Speed CMAK Flywheel/Clutch Kit, Stillen Brake Cooling.

04-19-2013, 06:17 PM	#48 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	If it is rust on the edge just leave it. Rust on the hub face, just leave it and apply a very thin smear of grease to prevent it rusting to the hub. Rust on the braking surface will be gone with a few minutes of driving. LinPark likes this. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

04-20-2013, 11:12 AM	#49 (permalink)
cavemancan Enthusiast Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Miami Posts: 302 Drives: 09 370Z TourSport MT Rep Power: 249	I mean rust on the Hub face and studs. I got brand new DBA 2 piece 5000 series rotors for the front and 1 piece 4000 series for the rear. They recommend sanding down or using a wire brush to promote even wear on the rotor. They even go as far as to recommend use of a Dial indicator to see if there is any run-out of the rotors once installed. If there is it is recommended to rotate the rotor 1 lug at a time until you get the lowest run out. __________________ Mazda Rx8 MT Titanium - SOLD! 2009 370Z T-Sport MT Black - Takeda Intake, Swift springs, Rear Camber kit, SS B Lines, FI Exhaust, Z Speed CMAK Flywheel/Clutch Kit, Stillen Brake Cooling.

05-21-2013, 09:45 PM	#50 (permalink)
Vichtz Track Member Join Date: May 2012 Location: Unknown Posts: 538 Drives: PG 09 Nissan 370z Rep Power: 13	Just for yall who have base brakes. My rotor did not have the "anti seize pop off" screw. But the hole is still there. Coincidentally, the bolts from the bracket are the perfect size. So rather than beating your rotor, just screw that bolt into the hole in your rotor and it pops right off. __________________ очень быстро ... Stillen Gen 3 CAI// Stillen CBE// B&M SS with PWJDM Shift Knob// Custom OCC// Drilled/Slotted Rotors//Halo/painted Headlights// Under-hood dress up

09-23-2013, 09:52 AM	#51 (permalink)
YamahaR6 Track Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: California Posts: 527 Drives: A Car Rep Power: 17	Just some pictures to add to this DYI. Additional Tip: 1. Instead of fiddling around with a coat hanger or zip ties; I used a jack stands which is leveled to the original position. 2. The pop-off screw works great. Take it off, removed the spacer, spray a little WD40 and slowly screw it back to the hub. (Warning, it made a mark on the inside hub. Don't think it will cause any issues.) 3. Aligned the new rotors where you made the mark; so that your new rotors has the same weight distribution. (Not sure how much it matters but might as well). The setup I went with DBA5000 and Project Mu 800. Lots of brake dust compared to stock. Stopping power seems to be "slightly" better on initial bite. Last edited by YamahaR6; 09-23-2013 at 09:56 AM.

02-17-2013, 05:11 PM	#46 (permalink)
nabenson Base Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Dallas, TX Posts: 103 Drives: 10 370z Nismo PW M6 Rep Power: 14	Thanks for the write-up. I read through it before I started and it took me less than an hour from the time I started pulling out tools until I was done putting them up. +1 rep

10-13-2013, 02:11 PM	#52 (permalink)
BlueDemon Base Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: On, Canada Posts: 31 Drives: 12 370z SportTouring Rep Power: 11	Exta stud Hey guys just putting on Ichiba spacers on the front and am running into an issue with that extra bolt that is beside the studs. Do i have to knock that out because the 15mm spacer does not go on. Please help.

10-27-2014, 09:29 AM	#54 (permalink)
Bananaz Track Member Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Central Jersey Posts: 637 Drives: 09 370z 6MT/B+Sport Rep Power: 13	Just changed my front rotors and pads this weekend. Surprisingly verrryyyyy easy if you have any experience working on a car. TreeSemdyZee likes this. __________________ BC - SSR - Evo-R - ViS - SPC - ZSpeed - Beluga - Blox - 35% Tint - Clutch Spring - Fang Forced Air Ducting

09-17-2015, 08:58 AM	#55 (permalink)
carlitos_370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Puerto Rico Posts: 7,157 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z SP M6 Rep Power: 7585	subscribed nice DIY dude!

09-22-2015, 03:54 PM	#56 (permalink)
Vandy Lam Base Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: Baton Rouge, LA Posts: 2 Drives: 2009 Nissan 370z Rep Power: 9	What is torque spec on our 370z?

11-23-2015, 02:18 PM	#57 (permalink)
sunkist350z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Z-land Posts: 1,009 Drives: 2012 370z sport 6-sp Rep Power: 55341	I thought removing the brake pads was not necessary to install rotors?

12-15-2015, 01:37 AM	#58 (permalink)
Kabestro Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Puerto Rico Posts: 331 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z MR M6 Rep Power: 39	Has anybody taken the dust shields off to replace with the sport ones for the Sport BBK? Is it easy? I'll be doing this in a couple of weeks but haven't seen anybody do it yet. Don't want to trim or bend the base ones. __________________ Stillen Gen 3 CAI / Fast Intentions HFC and CBE 12" Res. (#730) / Swift Springs / 20mm H&R Spacers / Clutch Helper Spring / UpRev Tune 322whp.

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