DIY: Replace dreaded steering-lock on 2009s and early 2010s.

wstar · 01-20-2012, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vaughanabe13

The lock module almost certainly uses serial communication on line "C", which could be relative to the 12V power, but more likely it is relative to an internal voltage regulator (I'm guessing 3.3V or 5V) and probably optoisolated.

It's possible, but that would make the service manual wrong. The chart listed there is intended to be "what you see with a probe" on that line, and apparently it's 0V when it's been unlocked for 15+ seconds, 12V when it's locked (or recently unlocked), and then a signal a little negative pulse signal against a 12V background for the lock/unlock command. What makes no sense in that chart is: how does the BCM send the pulses against 12V to lock from the unlocked state, if the line is at 0V? :P Clearly, at the very least the chart just doesn't tell the whole story, but it does seem it's 12V and unlikely serial, just some timed pulses.

Quote:

It doesn't even matter what kind of protocol they are using (I2C, SPI, proprietary, etc.) because you could just use a bus pirate to record the streams that are getting received/sent from the lock module. Of course, this would require that you have a module that is actually working (and not intermittently). You could use a tiny microcontroller and a couple of relays to emulate a functioning lock. The use of flash or EEPROM for saving the switch state might not be the best solution, depending on how fast the micro boots up and how much time is available to send the "all clear" signal.

Good point on the flash, but how does a relay fix things? Is there such a thing as an electromechanical relay that keeps its persistent mechanical state through power cycles?

ChrisSlicks · 01-20-2012, 02:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

It's possible, but that would make the service manual wrong. The chart listed there is intended to be "what you see with a probe" on that line, and apparently it's 0V when it's been unlocked for 15+ seconds, 12V when it's locked (or recently unlocked), and then a signal a little negative pulse signal against a 12V background for the lock/unlock command. What makes no sense in that chart is: how does the BCM send the pulses against 12V to lock from the unlocked state, if the line is at 0V? :P Clearly, at the very least the chart just doesn't tell the whole story, but it does seem it's 12V and unlikely serial, just some timed pulses.

This is common in the electronic world. The line is "pulled up" to the signal voltage (most electronics in the consumer world use 3.3V or 5V) and then switched to ground to send data pulses. Like you said this doesn't look like complicated data, just a simple pulse pattern with fixed frequency.

kenchan · 01-20-2012, 10:41 PM

chrisslicks, wstar, vaugnanabe - there's a member that posted this on another thread in the maintenance forum about his steering lock failure. wat strikes me is he could start the car with a faulty steering lock using his remote start.. just shuts off when the remote starter hands off controls back to the car when he steps on the brake.

do you think you can use a remote starter's signal to trick the BCM in this case??? that 'microprocessor' you guys were talking about earlier..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jasonle

im screwed. This **** just happend to me tonight!

I have a car starter on there too..pretty sure i wont be covered under warranty. I can start the car with my car starter..it will start but i cant go anywhere..cuz on a car starter if u tap on the brakes it will shut off. unless i use the emergency as my brakes which im not doing..But other then that it wont start and the yellow key light and red light comes on. Guessing its goin to be over $1000 to fix huh

FL 4Motion · 01-21-2012, 01:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

thanks, tongman.

the Jan2010 build car that needed the steering lock replaced today unfortunately had no label on the unit... so couldn't tell which revision it was. very odd.

so it is confirmed Mar2010 build and after is using RevC.

Anyone with a factory installed RevC have an earlier build date than Mar2010?
Please post up your build date and full part number on your unit.

should look something like this: 48700-JF00C-A1-01 or 48700-JF00C-B1-01

(Apr 2010 build date here)

ChrisSlicks · 01-21-2012, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

chrisslicks, wstar, vaugnanabe - there's a member that posted this on another thread in the maintenance forum about his steering lock failure. wat strikes me is he could start the car with a faulty steering lock using his remote start.. just shuts off when the remote starter hands off controls back to the car when he steps on the brake.

do you think you can use a remote starter's signal to trick the BCM in this case??? that 'microprocessor' you guys were talking about earlier..

My guess is that the remote starter in his case is wired in post BCM and IPDM (as I described in a previous post about a racing style setup), and they are instead sending signals directly to the ignition and starter relays. The remote starter is also wired into the brake switch on auto's and clutch switch on manuals as an anti-theft mechanism to prevent the car from being driven while on remote start mode. You could remove these wires if you didn't care about that aspect. So there is no BCM or IPDM trickery, just a complete bypass. When the BCM is back in control of the starting operation it says no go as the steering lock is stuck.

Given the frequency that these lock issues are starting to occur it might be time to start putting pressure on Nissan for a recall. Obviously they aren't going to do it voluntarily given that it is an expensive part. We could set up a petition and send it to Nissan or everyone that has had a failure can submit a complaint to NHTSA. If successful they are usually back dated so anyone that has paid for a replacement outside of warranty has an opportunity to get reimbursed.

kenchan · 01-21-2012, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

My guess is that the remote starter in his case is wired in post BCM and IPDM (as I described in a previous post about a racing style setup), and they are instead sending signals directly to the ignition and starter relays. The remote starter is also wired into the brake switch on auto's and clutch switch on manuals as an anti-theft mechanism to prevent the car from being driven while on remote start mode. You could remove these wires if you didn't care about that aspect. So there is no BCM or IPDM trickery, just a complete bypass. When the BCM is back in control of the starting operation it says no go as the steering lock is stuck.

Given the frequency that these lock issues are starting to occur it might be time to start putting pressure on Nissan for a recall. Obviously they aren't going to do it voluntarily given that it is an expensive part. We could set up a petition and send it to Nissan or everyone that has had a failure can submit a complaint to NHTSA. If successful they are usually back dated so anyone that has paid for a replacement outside of warranty has an opportunity to get reimbursed.

I see... thanks for the comments. Yah, I hope they do a recall as well.

Hey takjak- thanks for the GTR recall info. That's the one Davin was using on his DIY over there in the GTR forum. As we can see on that doc, JF00C is the part they used for the recall along with the 2 security bolts.

Jasonle · 01-23-2012, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

chrisslicks, wstar, vaugnanabe - there's a member that posted this on another thread in the maintenance forum about his steering lock failure. wat strikes me is he could start the car with a faulty steering lock using his remote start.. just shuts off when the remote starter hands off controls back to the car when he steps on the brake.

do you think you can use a remote starter's signal to trick the BCM in this case??? that 'microprocessor' you guys were talking about earlier..

With my car starter I ended up driving home going 5mph without using my brakes... i was 5 minutes away from home at a gas station..I had my friend in front of me and my brother in law behind me....comin up to a red light i downshifted and let it coast goin like 2mph and then emergency brake. I was goin to drop it off at the dealership at 2am that morning when no cars was out but my windows wont go back up and didnt want to leave the car there with my windows down...

Its now sitting in my garage. The dealership is 10 minutes away from my house..should I make a attempt again driving there or just fork up the money for a tow truck

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