For Hi-Step'n....Ive been told the Mercedes Benz does their oil changes this...dont know this for a fact...but would support the utility of one of these devices

So all you people that switched to redline 5w-30, did you wait until the recommended 3000 miles? Sorry its kinda unrelated but its in the oil change section at least!

I waited till 3700 miles. Some waited 4800 -5000 miles.

+1 rep AK for such an informative thread :tiphat:

Mityvac 7201 Fluid Dispense/ Evac - Lubrication / Hose Reels


anyone know if this site legit?

Just remember, you're still gonna have to go under the car to change the oil filter.

Yep, and typically the filter has oil inside that will drip out anyways. Unless you can reach the filter from the top, useless imo

The oil drain plug hole is situated higher than the bottom of the pan.

Very true, as the 370Z's engine bay does not allow any reach to the oil filter from above.

Depending on the oil catch container you use you can achieve a spotless garage floor. About a decade ago there was a Japanese car magazine article regarding the use of an oil evacuator and they consistently removed more engine oil than just draining from the oil plug alone.

The 370Z's engine is a perfect candidate for an oil evacuator, but it is important to note for those who are contemplating an oil evacuator that not all engines will allow the oil evacuator's tube to go all the way down the dipstick opening. If you are buying one thinking that you can use it on all your vehicles you might want to consider learning from other forums whether this method will work those other engines you own.

First Esther Oil Change
 

So I had my post break in oil change at the dealership using their fancy oil. I asked the guy to let me watch and he agreed. First, underneath the car is really cool.

Second, he only received 5 quarts of oil from the service dept. He put 5 in. I told him the manual says 5 and 1/8. He laughed and agreed to put the extra 1/8 in. Why would they not put 1/8 in? Does that 1/8 matter?

Third, he didnt know anything about a copper crush washer and it was not installed. Does this matter and should I be concerned.

Me = noob

PS, I was surprised how small the filter was.

Switching to redline at 5k or so.

What??? Yes you should be concerned. Installing a new crush washer is standard procedure any time an oil change is performed on ALL cars. Where do they get these yahoos? Sheesh. Nissan sells them in bags of 12, if I recall correctly. In fact, give me a min. and I'll go get the part number off of my pack in my tool chest. Unbelievable.

Okay, they come in packs of 10, not 12. Part no. is 11026-01M02. If I were you I'd go speak to the service manager. Without that washer, there's a greater risk that your oil will leak. The purpose of the washer is to ensure a good seal around the drain hole as it literally compresses (or crushes) when the drain plug is tightened in. What concerns me is that if you have an oil leak, it won't be obvious from the little drips of oil on your driveway or garage floor. Why not? Because our cars have that big undertray that will catch all the drips. So you'll be oblivious, driving along thinking everything is kosher until your next oil change. Then the undertray will come off again, revealing a huge mess of oil that has been dripping down. Ugh! This isn't even my car and it aggravates me.

I was able to pick up 1 copper washer for a buck at the nissan dealership. i guess its true that copper prices are high hehe. oil change this weekend with redline, wee.

Thanks, I will go see them. Is there something I can point to, a service manual, bulletin, etc other than saying, "So I read on the internet that you did this wrong"?

See part no. 14.

http://i618.photobucket.com/albums/t...9-102739AM.jpg

It is Engine Oil Change 101 that the drain plug washer is always replaced as once used it loses its compressive strength. Any person who changes oil for a living should know this or they should not be changing oil for a living.

Also, go back to the diagram from the 370Z Service Manual posted by Semtex and note the white "X" within a black circle, this means not to reuse this part and the part is to be replaced with a new part.

:facepalm: That's why I avoid dealers as much as possible.

Seriously, what's this guy doing working at a dealership? He's not even qualified to be working at a Jiffy Lube!

1.0 out of 5 stars Not for use with Synthetic Oil- Tool Topia not returning!, December 13, 2007
By serasbach "serasbach" (AZ) - See all my reviews
I used this on my 2002 BMW and it seemed to work great, but the next time I went to use it- oil started coming out of the T-Handle where air normally is the only thing that escapes. I called the manufacturer, and they advised me that some synthetic oils (Mobil 1 in my case) can cause the seals in the lower part of the canister to degrade and will allow oil to bypass. They informed me that it would be covered under warranty- but Tool Topia is not working with me. When you call the line for returns, they have you leave a message- nobody ever calls you back either. I have called 4 times in the last 6 days- and nothing.

Don't buy this if you use synthetic oil, it won't last long enough for your second oil change.






true http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-L...0232934&sr=1-2

Mine is not the Mityvac, but it looks similar. However, there is clear warning that many do not heed and it that you only pump the handle five times, and every so often afterwards, and not to over pump it as it will blowout the seals. So if Godzilla is pumping the crap out of the bloody thing, it's going to blow something! I've had mine for over a decade and it has seen synthetic of just about every brand and dino too. Still works like the day I bought it. Dollars to donuts that Mr. Bimmer did a Godzilla number on his extractor.

Here is who makes mine (Griot's typically re-boxes most of its items under the Griot's label): Pela Oil Extractor - Large PL650

How To Use: PL-650 Big PELA & PELA Pro 14 Oil Extractors*

*On mine, Griot's put a five pump warning (most likely to keep Godzilla from blowing seals).

where do u buy those?

Simply search the net, or eBay using "Pela Oil 650".

I'm thinking of getting an oil extractor myself, but I'm wondering what happens when you want to send your oil off for UOA. Blackstone's instructions say to take the sample from the middle of drain. In other words, don't take the oil that immediately starts dumping out when you remove the drain plug, and don't wait till it's almost finished draining either. Point being, if I were using an extractor, I don't think I'm supposed to just scoop some oil out of the extractor when I'm finished extracting all of it. So if I have to drain my oil the old fashioned way in order to get a proper oil sample for UOA, then this would be a waste of money for me. SoCal370Z -- any thoughts on this?

I situate my extractor's oil tube (up in the air and through a bike rack I have in my garage) so that oil in the tube is drained back into the hopper until the next oil change so the tube itself is cleared of oil, but surely it has oil residue inside that can contaminate existing oil. I always wipe-down the tube prior to placing it in the engine's dipstick, AND I start pumping immediately as I do not want any of the possible residue inside the tube going into the engine oil (although I'm changing the oil). You will not be able to take a sample from the hopper as effective cleaning of the hopper is impossible, and you would be getting a contaminated sample. The assembly of the pump's mechanism in the hopper makes it impossible not to contaminate any incoming oil with prior oil. The cylinder of the hopper is marked with graduations—in metric—so you can easily discern how much you have extracted. This allows you to leave enough in the oil pan whereby you can open the drain plug and retrieve your sample; afterwards simply place the tube back in and extract the rest. Another benefit from using an oil extractor is that in doing the method I mentioned above to get your oil sample, you do not have to worry about oil rushing out of the drain hole when you remove the oil drain plug; this makes for much cleaner oil change.

Here's a good thread write-up and a photo montage of the Pela Extractor: Oil Extractor Review

just put in redline. drove it for a bit, things seem smoother and much quieter. oil temp seems to be lower too, but that may be due to the early morning cool weather. i'll be driving across town later in warmer weather so we'll see how the temp is...

Amazon.com: Pela Oil Extractor, 6 liter: Sports & Outdoors


this? if this is it im gonna buy and change to red line

AK, I just changed my oil using Redline 5w-30 and and added a filter magnet and magnetic drain plug. Your DYI was so informative and easy. It took me 45 min, and I was taking my time. Everything just flowed together nicely. I haven't however gotten rid of the engine tapping noise with Redline, but at this point, I'm just happy everything went so smoothly. Sending my used Nissan Ester oil to Blackstone for analysis. You're the man, man! :tup: :tiphat:

Good to know that everything worked out great. I'm glad this DIY gave you an idea what to expect beforehand.

Here are my goodies I used for my first oil change and wheel locks for the sport wheels
Attachment 11718

Attachment 11719

Attachment 11720

I don't think your helper looks too psyched.

LOL. He's like "where are the doggy biscuits, man?"

Not sure Forza is going to help in the oil change either. :p

He needs his nails trimmed. :p

Hey I got a question when I bought my car the dealership told me I have to get my car service once a year or else I will void my warrenty is this true? I've always change my oil myself and other easy stuff. And another question if I do have to take it to dealer will they use syntetic oil cause I've been using royal purple already

sounds like bull

Anyone know for sure

You must keep documentation with your VIN and Mileage of your service. Even if you do it yourself. It does not need to be handled by anyone in particular. This includes oil changes.

I use the GasCubby app on my iPhone. Works Great.

:iagree: Dealer wants your money :ugh:

This is VERY true. Keep track of all your oil changes (no round off, keep exact mileage data) and keep all your receipts (i.e. oil filter, oil etc). I have a folder where I keep all my receipts. I also keep the oil change mileage on a different sheet.


I just want to let everyone know how easy it is to recycle used oil. You can drop off your used oil at ANY pepboys or other automotive repair shop (preferably nationwide chains). I'm so busy, I just drop it off during off hours. Last week I dropped off my used oil at my local PEPBOYS. Please, be respectful to the environment and recycle your used oil :tup:

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/DSC03343.jpg

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/DSC03345.jpg

I was told that you do not actually have to keep receipts for the materials, but I'm not 100% on this. I will have bank statements and credit card data to back up my claims if needs be though.

Your note is hilarious AK. "Thank you, A.K." You should change it to "AK370Z". I just use a standard catch can (got a smaller one for the Z than the ones I've had in the past) and O'Reilly's and AutoZone just have a container in the back. You just walk in and take care of it on your own, keep the can. Your solution looks a little different lol.

:icon17: lol.. Next morning the first tech that will see the note will think ,"Hmmm.. who the F is A.K.?" :bowrofl:

I keep an oil change / general maintenance log in a folder that also contains all receipts for oil, filters, etc. Oil change log has the following columns: Date/Mileage/Oil/Filter/Notes.

I'm pretty anal about keeping up my vehicle documentation. Every now and then I pull out my old Mustang receipts folder and take a look at everything I bought. On 6/14/2003 I paid $365 shipped for a Magnaflow CBE!