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Many thanks for sharing!!!
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Just did my 4th oil change and actually came back to this for reference - for the umpteenth time "Thanks AK!".
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So I just finished my oil change for the ?th time and as I'm finishing up pouring in the oil I realize that I probably put that stupid crush washer in backwards. Funny how the most simple procedure can slip your mind no matter how many times you perform a task.
Anyone else do this by accident? I've read a few other posts saying it shouldn't be an issue but just curious if anyone here has experience first hand. I did remove the old one FWIW. I guess I'll run it and check for any seepage in a few days... I'm not about to drain all the oil fresh oil out for a stupid copper washer just yet |
This car requires a crush washer to change the oil?
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Reading this thread. Looks like this car requires a bit more effort to get the job done. Interesting.
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Worry not. |
Air ratchet ftw.
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I just want to update everyone that my car turned over 93,000 miles and still running like a boss for being a 6 1/2 year old car. This Redline oil combo with purolator filter worked awesome. No complain. I def. don't baby the car. Almost every Sunday I redline the living crap outta it at autox venues and Z comes out winning class or podium finishes in competitive regions. So if someone ask me "is this redline with purolator is a good combo?" I can most certainly tell them "yes. it is. I think we have enough data to say it now." I changed to redline at 3600 miles. |
Thats the combo im running and will run for a long time.
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0W-30 Castrol Syntec makes my Z very happy
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Just fold the flap back on the under tray, the oil stream clears the tray so there is no mess
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1 week after putting the crush washer on backwards and dry as a bone underneath. Just in case any other noobs are curious :)
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk |
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Now the tricky part: Remove your thumb and quickly -- I mean VERY quickly -- replace the drain plug and secure it. Do not forget to torque it to the specified number of ft-lbs. I think that peace of mind has no price. He should do this immediately. Also, have one or two rolls of Bounty™ handy. onzedge™ has written... All Reps returned... |
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Wanting to buy the magnetic drain plug and oil filter mags. Any brands better than others or ones to avoid?
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Very Helpful Information - Thanks:tiphat:
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How much was the drain plug?
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bungee cord works,easy oil change, put the magnetic oil plug in at 1200mi, few more months and see whats going on..
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I don't know if someone has mentioned it, but, what I like to do once every so many oil changes once the oil has drained is to pour another quart in the motor while the drain plug is off to flush out the left hand side head and the left hand side of the engine block and sump. Then, I go ahead and button things up and add the proper amount of oil per the owners manual.
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http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...b39977f469.jpg |
curious as to why - but i'd imagine it's just one of those things "because they say so"
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I'd also say because the bolt is tightening into the pan, having the open end on the pan would allow for more even crushing and subsequent better seal. |
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I've always used jack stands on my 300zx, and lowered the car to drain the oil completely, then jacked it back up to put in the drain plug. What are your thoughts folks? And thanks for the help. Paid the shop to do the first oil change, as a way to let me get under the lift and take a look at the under carriage. From here on out, I plan to do it myself. |
I never worry about it. The way I see it, you are never going to completely get every drop of used oil out of the system and just so long as it's refreshed with good oil on a regular basis, I think everything should be fine.
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That's a fair logic to go by, honestly. I don't race the car. I just drive it hard when I get the chance. Plus, I'm not maximizing the milage intervals with Mobil1 anyway. Thank you.
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i always change oil late afternoon, let it drip all night and fill in morning
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