They (stealership) wants your 15k mile servicing $$...haha

I've been trying to get rid of drain plugs on my cars... I tried one of these Dorman EZ Drains on my daily driver first (and not the Z). Really cheap, too.

So far, I like it and it seems like a pretty well made part. I want to go through a few oil changes first before I put it on the Z, though...

Just a tip.

Dorman Products

Put my redline in today at 9600 miles.
My god, what a difference it makes.
Quieter, noticeably smoother n-1-2 shifts even. Love it

blackflag,

Consider ordering/using a Fumoto..the best.... if you want to attach a hose to the Fumoto do order a Fumoto that has a nipple on it for hose attachment. (not all Fumoto's have a nipple) Futmoto's part# will have an "N" in it indicating "nipple" if it has a nipple.

For the '09 - '10 370Z use the F103N Fumoto valve.


http://www.fumotousa.com/images/nplug.gif

http://www.fumotousa.com/images/n_valve.jpg



Best place to buy price wise is from an eBAY vendor. They do not leak and are very well made. A terrific adjunct. 8-) I've used them on numerous vehicles over the last few years.

^ Good info, Billarf! +rep for you.

Do you by chance know where to get the appropriate hose to slide onto the nipple? Correct size, etc.?

I found the tubing that fits the nipple. 3/8" internal diameter.

They sell it here:
http://www.qwikvalve.com/3-8-ID-x-3F...yl-Tubing.html

3/8" if I remember correctly. Easily had for cheap at The Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc.. Buy 2 foot and shorten to your liking. Also, the Fumoto comes with it's own gasket. You do NOT need or should you use a Nissan crunch washer with the install. The Fumoto gasket is all you need/want.

Thanks for the info. I researched the Fumoto part and the Fram Sure Drain, and wound up going with the Dorman part...I like it so far. I just wanted to shake it down on 2 other cars before I stick it on the Z. So far so good. :tup:

I need some imput from you guys.

I didnt feel like doing my oil change myself, I am not used to doing anything myself to my car so I took it to the dealer for an oil change.

When I checked the bill the next day I found out they changed my oil to 10w40 STI.
I know nothing about it and know nothing about what brand it is, just the type STI.

On here I see 5w30 everywhere so I am wondering will the 10w40 that the dealer used be ok?

thanks

I would take it back to them and make them fill with the correct oil. Then I'd find a new place to get oil changes done.

$0.02

:iagree:

Ok thanks guys, but any idea if its bad for my car?

It's not bad per se, especially in higher temps. I used to run 10w40 in my 240's since I live in TX and like to see high revs. It's just thicker

I would never go back to that shop for sure, they didn't even think about what your car was supposed to have.

Normally, I'd say it's not a problem, and I used to run 10w40 all the time.

But the VVEL system is designed for 5w30. Anything else is bad, in my opinion. It either wouldn't be getting enough flow, or getting enough viscosity, with anything higher or lower.

Oil Change Numero 5!
 

Oil Change Numero 5! (4th Synthetic)

So, I was feeling a little better today compare to last few days. I have decided to change the oil again. Summer is right around the corner so it's probably not a bad idea.

I went with K&N HP-1008 this time because UPS screwed up my previous order and K&N sent me two (2) of these HP-1008 filters. I think I'm going to stick to Purolator Pure1 (as I have stated here) for future oil changes. Why? It's very easy to locate (local auto store has it), better filtering, slightly cheaper and larger.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC03820.jpg
That's just in 1 year! I drive a lot :driving:

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC03792.jpg
Oil Draining

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC03794.jpg
Every single oil change sample was sent to Blackstone Lab. It's a GREAT idea to do this because they can guide you perfectly when to do the next oil change, how's the oil etc. I usually don't share this on the forum because EVERY analysis will be different depending on driving condition, mileage, weather, driving habit, and many other things.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC03798.jpg
I always put new crush washer. Though my dealer overcharge (1 washer = $1.06, usually they are 3 for $1) me every time :rolleyes:, never reuse washer.

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...800_edited.jpg
Tried to take a picture of the inside opening. Just for fun :) Looks pretty clean

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC03808.jpg
NO more Aquafina! :icon18:


Now, I should let you guys know that I DO NOT have the front chin spoiler. But even without it, I found out that I was rubbing the ramp slightly (found some scratched paint under front bumper). So, I went ahead and made these wooden steps to help me clear the ramp. I realized I have make them WAY too thick! :icon17: I have like 1" clearance now! :tup: . Check them out:

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC03813.jpg

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...e/DSC03814.jpg
Width of the wood: 1.5"

Video:

Did my oil change yesterday, thanks for the write up AK. Of the 16 bolts theres two that on the sides that go into metal clips not solid metal. These lil bastards were a mofo to get off and I find it strange that no one else in this thread has mentioned these. I had my first oil change done for free by the dealer so Im thinking maybe they screwed them up somehow because when I was trying to take these specific bolts out the clips just rotated with the bolt. Anyway my solution in the end once I finally got them removed was that 14 bolts will hold that plastic cover on just fine.

Really only necessary to remove 4 bolts when you do an oil and filter change on a 370Z. I'm curious why some feel it necessary to remove the whole shroud/16 bolts?

lmao .. I just received 12 bottles of blackstone oil sample pack. Lets see:

oil change interval 7000 miles x 12 bottles = 84,000 miles! I guess they expect me to keep this car for another 84K :icon17:

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/DSC04090.jpg


Also, you can check out my other thread HERE about my vq status from blackstone lab.

Read this entire thread today - really amazing info in here for everyone - I have to guess that this might be the most used DIY on the forum so far - +1 Rep for AK.

My car only has 800 miles on it right now but based on all this reading I'm thinking I should start making arrangements for a first oil change around 1200 miles and then cutover to synthetic around the 3000 mile point.

All of the questions about the copper washer were amusing - Datsun/Nissan has been using those FOREVER - its been replaced on my 280Z so many times I've lost count.

I shouldn't have any problems with putting the car up on 4 jack stands right? Would it make more sense to raise the rear of the car up slightly further than the front?

Also, I didn't see any discussion in here about changing your oil based on time instead of miles - I don't put many miles on my car - should I think about changing the oil based on dates instead of miles or is that just plain stupid?

Thanks again AK for all this work!

EDIT: Might find this link helpful for those who don't have a dealer nearby that stock the copper washers.

The magnetic drain plug is a good buy, but does it come in blue? At the website, it doesn't give my an option to choose which color I wanted.

Yeah, I bought mine yesterday - I think the one for the Z is only red - the blue and gold one in the picture are different sizes for different makes (I think).

Dangit...my whole theme is screwed up with that red drain plug...j/k...imma just get that red one.

just did my first oil change yesterday with the help of your guide!! :tup:

Just got the oil plug today - holy moly is this thing TINY!!!!! Really light too compared to the one in the 280Z - oh well, another 100 miles or so and I'll be swapping out the original oil - anyone save a little bit of theirs for sentimental reasons? :rofl2:

Just did the oil change yesterday, no hiccups. Thanks for the DIY!

For the Fourth of July, my girlfriend and I were getting ready to take the Z on a 800 mile round-trip journey to the Chicagoland area to visit my parents for a few days. With this trip in mind, I started gathering the necessary equipment to change the oil.

Before I was able to even think about changing the oil, I needed a way to get under the car. I thought about using Rhino Ramps, but since I had the front air dam installed, I didn't feel like piecing together a makeshift 2x4 "approach" ramp. Plus, the Rhino Ramps felt cheap and I didn't want the possibility of them sliding out from under the car. Thus, I started searching for an alternative.

I did a quick search on the forums and read some information about Race Ramps. I have heard about them before, but I never took the time to read about them. Although they are expensive, I was very impressed by their reviews. Through the forums, I found a website, Reverse Logic Limited Jack Pad Tools for People Who Love Their Cars, who sold Race Ramps at a very good price. At first, I thought the website was a little sketchy, but a few members on here vouched for them. Since I needed the ramps ASAP, I tried my luck and called them on a Saturday. When Fred picked up the phone, I was startled!

After a long conversation with Fred, I felt comfortable enough to make the transaction. I paid $219 for the 56", 2-piece ramps. That price also included free shipping! Needless to say, Fred is an AWESOME guy and I had my ramps in three business days.

Next, I needed oil, crush washers, and an oil filter. Here is a tip guys; tell your girlfriend to go pick up the crush washers at a local dealership and smile pretty. The dealer gave her 5 washers for free, so I was pretty excited about that! For the oil filter, I went with a Purolator PureONE, which is easily found at many auto stores. Lastly, I needed to get oil. As many of you know, I'm an Amsoil guy so it didn't take long for me to place an order for Amsoil's 0W-30 Signature Series. Since I live in Columbus, I'm able to pick the oil up locally at their distribution center and avoid shipping costs.

All said and done, the oil was changed and I was ready for the trip. The car started up with an effortless roar, the idle was noticeably smoother, and the engine just felt happier. I never thought an oil change could have such a positive impact on my driving experience, but I'll spare you all the Amsoil dealer jargon :tup:

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b3...Q/IMG_2150.jpg

Indeed, a terrific source to buy Race Ramps from is Reverse Logic Limited ---> Low Profile Ramps & Wheel Cribs

Terrific to deal with, pricing excellent and Fred the owner gets them to you at super sonic speed. I've bought from him twice now and he is good to deal with and an excellent communicator.

I still got some time before doing my first oil change. I'm only at 1500 miles. Will plan to do my oil change at 2500 to 3000 miles.

Great information. Does anyone out there have any experience with the Race Ramps and the NISMO. The front fascia is obviously different and I'm not convinced the Race Ramps would work. Thanks for any help.

I removed 17 bolts. Oh well.

How magnetically strong is that drain bolt plug? That Nissan magnetic drain plug is much cheaper.

How is this possible? Can you (or anyone) elaborate on this or show how it's done?

I use an extractor as well, so if this is possible it would make the job a whole lot easier. LOL I knew I seen this post on one of the Z sites, glad I found it. ;)

I just used my 56" two piece Race Ramps for the first time...I love them. They were purchased from Reverse Logic on the recomendation of people here. Fred was awesome just like others have mentioned. I received my order fast and Fred even recomended a good wheel chock to go along with the ramps.

The WIX filter alternative to the PL14610 is the WIX 51357

http://www.wixconnect.com/images/filters/4558_1.gif

Great info. I'm tempted to try. How do you like it?

WIX has one of the best reps out there. Even with all the random bad mouthing of products on the Internet I haven't heard anything bad about the WIX stuff. I've been using the stock WIX replacement but I just found the larger version like the larger Purolator so I thought I'd post the info here as another good filter option.

I haven't been able to find the Purolator stuff locally but I can get the WIX and the NAPA filters are made by Purolator so if you can't find it locally that's another option....

Thanks. :tup: I may give them a try.

You need the RR extenders for the Nismo fascia. It adds another +$100 to the price of using ramps. All put together the ramps + extenders are almost the price of a top-end floor jack with top-end jack stands. I'm kind of torn as the jacks give you more versatility, but I feel safer with the ramps. And, yes, I've talked to RaceLogic about pricing.

AK, I used a Wix on my previous oil change. Insolubles read 0.2%, so I'd say the Wix did an excellent job. I went with a PureOne this time around to get some comparison.

Amsoil sells Wix, so if you need any help with pricing, just let me know.

Which part number for your Wix filter did you use?