51365.

So basically the 51357 is an inch taller (and virtually the same size as the PL14610) than the 51365 if you want to upsize your filter....


Part Number: 51365
Height: 2.577
Outer Diameter Top: 2.685
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
Beta Ratio: 2/20=15/22
Burst Pressure-PSI: 300


Part Number: 51357
Height: 3.402
Outer Diameter Top: 2.685
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
Burst Pressure-PSI: 280

and for reference to the Purolator PL14610

Specifications:
Anti-Drain Back Valve Yes Height 3.52
O.D. 2.69 Relief Valve P.S.I. 14-18
Threads M20-1.5 Type of Filter Spin-on

Thanks for the writeup AK, I used it yesterday for my first oil change.

I went with a Purolator PureOne filter and used Pennzoil Ultra 10-30w down here in TX heat.

Also sent a sample to Blackstone for analysis. This is my first oil change since I purchased the car. I bought the car used with 6K on the clock, so I hope the previous break-in and oil changes were done correctly. Wasn't that thrilled when I saw a Carquest oil filter on the car though...

I'm about to order/go out and buy whats necessary for my first change. Can someone let me know if i'm overlooking anything. I have a ratchet set and torque wrench already.

1. Redline 5w30 Five Quart
2. Redline 5w30 one Quart
3. K&N Oil Filter HP-1008
4. Kics Oil Drain Plug M12 P1.25
5. Filter Magnet - RA250
6. Copper Drain Plug Washer
7. 12 Quart Oil Drain Pan
8. Blitz Ramps

Thanks!

anyone notice the price on Purolator PL14610 skyrocket?! Amazon sold the 2 packs for around 11 dollars

now its 11 dollars for one filter!

Advanced Auto Parts has then for $6.50 and they often run oil change specials where you can get a Purolator filter basically for free when you buy the advertised oil.

yeah, i am running amsoil right now so all i need is the filter. I just cant wrap my head around the huge price increase

FYI, (AK i dunno if you want to add this to your first post, but) you can get the the Kics magnetic drain plugs here for $5 less: MyNismo.com - PROJECT KICS Magnetic Oil Drain

and the washers for $0.80 here MyNismo.com - NISSAN Oil Drain Plug Washer they are 30 cents less each and you don't need to go to the dealership

lower price and no trips to dealership :)

Thread was helpful, finally tried it myself after postponing the last two oil changes!...

(you mention you remove the oil filter first THEN drain the oil?. . . saw it the other way round in some other manual, don't think its a big deal but was there a specific reason for doing the filter first and not the draining from the bolt first?)

In this DIY? I never mentioned such thing. I have never in my life taken off filter before the drain bolt. I think you're confusing oil filler CAP with oil filter

http://i576.photobucket.com/albums/s...m/DSC04378.jpg

Hope this helps! :tiphat:

If you have a wide enough catch tray you can remove both at the same time. Order doesn't really matter but you will end up with less on your hands if you do the drain plug first.

Oh yeah nevermind, sorry about that!! I take back my words.. :P

Could you add this as one of the steps in your DIY? I actually used your DIY on my first oil change! Thank you very much!


Though now I'm finally getting the warning that I need to change my oil and oil filter. LMAO!
:icon18:

FWIW, I changed the oil on my NISMO last Friday. Here are a couple things I did different than in the DIY.

1. Starter Ramps--I got a 6' section of 2x12 from a lumber store, cut it in half and then put 45 degree miter cuts along one edge (the 12" side) for each half. I pulled the front onto those and then slid my low-profile jack up to the front cross member jack point. I probably could've gotten away without the mitre cut, but the tires grabbed right away on the wood and nothing slid.

2. Jack Stands vs. Ramps--Rather than jacks or ramps I purchased a single set of 12" 2-piece Race Ramps wheel cribs (RR-WC-12-2). This gave me four 6" halves that each have a lip that cups the wheel when underneath. This gave me 6" of lift at all four corners.

3. Bolts--I removed only the 4 bolts on the rear of the underbody tray and used two bungee cords to keep the flap out of the way. Worked like a charm.

The RR cribs worked great. There is still play in the suspension, but the cribs didn't compress at all when the tires were down. Also, when the front tires were on cribs and I went to jack up the rear the front tires didn't move forward in the cup. If you're very low and don't want to use jack stands this is an alternative.

Oh, and don't even try getting the OEM filter off by hand. Just have a removal tool ready before you start.

yeah i second that! i ended up crushing the oil filter to get it off....holy smokes. this was on a nismo not sure if it's the same on the base/sport.

It's the same on all of them. I used a big as* pipe wrench to get it off. It's supposed to be installed at 13 ft-lbs but it was double that.

yea i used a pipe wrench and this grippy oven mit called an orka (mine was hot because i drove earlier)

So the amount of oil that I was disposing off turned out to be lesser than 5 and a quarter. . . . is that normal?

What was your oil level before and after the change? My first change (at 1300 miles) went from the oil level being perfectly between L and H to being juuuust under H after adding 5 1/8 quarts. Obviously I drained less than that. The car came with the oil half way between L and H. You're probably fine, just keep an eye on the oil level to see if there are any big changes.

I am sure the last time I did the change, we put in exactly 5 and 1/8th. And then while draining, I was storing the oil in the big 5 quart container to return to Walmart and this 5 quart was not entirely full the way it was before opening. So how ever I slice it, I did end up draining less than 5 and 1/8th. :( Not sure if thats normal...

Totaly normal. Don't forget the oil filter takes up oil as well. Sounds like you didn't burn a drop if you put in 5 1/8 and got 5ish out if you include what the filter would take. Even if you burnt 1/8th that's nothing between oil changes....

It still blows my mind how TINY the filter on our cars are.... even the "big" Purolator or Wix seem so small....

Well I burnt more than 1/8th, because we put in 5 full quarts + 1/8th from the 6th bottle. . . and while disposing, one big 5 quart bottle wasn't even full to the 5 quart level. So the 1/8th was gone PLUS some of the 5 quarts were gone.....

I don't beat the car or track it etc. but I did do a lot of long drives pretty much each weekend (200 miles+)

STILL normal?

How far from the 5 quart line? You probably spilled some, left some in the filter, had plenty of residue in the drain pan, and even then maybe burned a little bit. Also, how accurate is this jug? Unless this jug was half full or something you're fine. Just check your dipstick once a week and track it against your mileage.

I just did my first oil change at 2975 miles. I followed AK's DIY and it went great other than the fact that I can't seem to line up where the oil comes out and where it is supposed to go in the drain pan. I made a little mess but I haven't changed my own oil in probably 15 years so I guess I am rusty.
Thanks AK.

Changed my oil on Friday at 1600mi with Redline 5w30, the large purolator filter, filter mag and magnetic drain plug. Everything went great except i swear Nissan torqued down the OE filter to like 140ft/lbsand the 67.3 bolts that need to be removed to take off the splash tray...

i did mine yesterday too at 2999 miles. :D the oil change was easy, but figuring out the reminder reset was confusing. :D hahaha. kept holding down the button thinking it was the same as any other car... the owner's manual also sucked in explaining that you just select current mile and hit the top button and let go.

Wait, so you have more posts than miles?

yah but remember i own 4 cars...

Just teasin'. :D

Kenchan,

What oil did you go with?

Mobil1 silver cap 5w30 and factory oil filter. i only use mobil1 these days.

I just did my oil change yesterday~ motul 300v and hamp filter r pretty good too. Engine revs up much faster now

Hey AK,

I noticed you used a copper crushable washer. I also noticed that the magnetic drain plug came with 2 different sized washers in the package. I assume you didn't use those for anything?

Thanks

nah.. I throw them away.

Just finished my first oil change at 3000 mi. Used my Race Ramps and installed a magnetic drain plug. I've done a lot of oil changes but this thread was very informative and I learned a lot. The oil change went great and there were no surprises thanks to everyone here especially AK...thanks!

I went with Redline oil and the Pure One oil filter. My Z is noticeably quieter and very smooth.

AK370Z, if I may make a suggestion: Consoldate the Best Known Method's (BKM) found in this thread along with new tools recommended and update the first post with this information along with a FAQ section.

It will help returning members to the thread who are trying to remember what tool was that or what was that alternate oil filter (like me) from having to read through (currently) 30 pages.

The alternate oil filter: http://www.the370z.com/371674-post221.html

btw. Good thread!

Cheers
Curtis

Pepboys has a sale right now on Mobil1. I think till the end of the month. 5qts+oil filter=$29.99

Doing my oil change in the morning since it's 90+ degrees out right now.:mad:

Oil Change queries
 

First, I applaud your oil-change post (nicely done), but have a couple of questions...1) Did your 370Z not have the front wind-deflectors or did you simply fail to mention the need to remove them? Secondly, given your admittedly overdone approach to the ramp entry...what makes sense here - a single 2x4 or 2X2 perhaps? I have the Rhino ramps and I'm about to do my first oil change, so this is important to me.

Nice write up AK, I read the entire thread, taking notes, getting ready to do my 1st oil change, Im only at a little over 500 miles on my Z, but I hardly drive it, being that I have 2 rides, so I have time.

Ramp Helpers
 

AK - getting ready to do my first oil change. Have the Rhino ramps (same as yours) and wondering what to do for an up-step to avoid any underbody contact. You had mentioned that your double 2X4 steps were a bit too much, so what would you suggest? Would a single 2X4 positioned at the ramps' front edges be sufficient to raise the entry?