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I use an oil extractor (vacuum pump with container). A tube is inserted in the oil dip stick; pump to create a vacuum; and the hot oil is drained in
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#1 (permalink) |
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I use an oil extractor (vacuum pump with container). A tube is inserted in the oil dip stick; pump to create a vacuum; and the hot oil is drained in the container. Next, I drain any remaining oil via the oil filter. I don't know the brand of the oil extractor since I purchased it several years ago. This method avoids getting in contact with hot oil and minimizes spills. The oil extractor is available at most boat supply stores (West Marine, E& B Marine,etc.)
I place my old oil drain container under the oil filter. I can reach the oil filter from the front of a 350Z without jacking up the car. I do remove the engine undertray pan for inspection purposes. Typically, this method take me less than one hour including a test drive and re-inspecting for oil leaks. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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I use an extractor as well, so if this is possible it would make the job a whole lot easier. LOL I knew I seen this post on one of the Z sites, glad I found it. ![]() |
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#4 (permalink) |
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I just used my 56" two piece Race Ramps for the first time...I love them. They were purchased from Reverse Logic on the recomendation of people here. Fred was awesome just like others have mentioned. I received my order fast and Fred even recomended a good wheel chock to go along with the ramps.
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#7 (permalink) |
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I'm about to go change the oil on my 370z but the dealer is closed today and i dont have the Copper drain plug washer, is there any way that i can use the one I currently have or can I buy one at the auto parts store?
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#8 (permalink) |
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Do not use the one you already have, they are one time use only. You should be able to find one in any local parts store. It just a squish-able copper washer, nothing really fancy.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Well, very often you hear of people using them over and over but it is not recommended. You chance seepage/a leak. Get a Genuine Nissan crush washer (Manufacturer Part Number: 11026-01M02 12mm OEM) and it has two different sides so do be sure to put it on right. Read back through this thread for pics of the crush washer installed correctly, etc.
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#10 (permalink) |
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I will be doing my first oil change this weekend and purchased a Mobil 1 jug that contains 5.28 US Qts. My question is: If I use the whole jug would I overfill my engine with oil? I know the recommended is 5.125 but I think I would have a hard time estimating that exact amount. It doesn't seem like a difference of 0.155 Qts is much but I could be wrong and don't want to damage my engine. Sorry for the newb question guys.
I have always changed the oil on my motorcycle but since its exactly 3 quarts, its a little easier (no measuring required). Thanks, |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Hi admin,
this is Rikki and I have a couple questions about changing oil. I have bought might nismo for about 3,000miles and i might have to change oil in another 3k or 4k miles so I m looking to learn how to change oil. These are what we need that u have posted to be able to change our oil. Do we have to buy all these stuff (except MOTOR OIL and OIL FILTER of course) everytime we change our oil? And what is the function of the FIlterMag Oil Filter Magnet? I know u must be very busy but if u have any chance to answer my questions that would be great. Redline Synthetic Motor oil (5W 30) K&N Oil filter Magnetic drain plug Size: FilterMag Oil Filter Magnet Copper drain plug washer Thanks |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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I'm no expert on magnets, but they do get weaker over time, but it takes a VERY long time. So you shouldn't need to buy another set.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Someone please enlighten me on this. If there were some ferrous (iron, steel) particles suspended in the oil pan, wouldn't the filter capture it there? I just don't get the need for a magnetic drain plug, but maybe I'm missing something.
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