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DIY: Nissan 370Z Oil change (AK370Z way) Pictures inside

I noticed the OEM oil filter is made in China,why.?Japan cannot make oil Filter.?

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Old 06-12-2009, 10:03 AM   #46 (permalink)
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I noticed the OEM oil filter is made in China,why.?Japan cannot make oil Filter.?
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Old 06-12-2009, 10:19 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Old 06-12-2009, 08:37 PM   #48 (permalink)
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What does one need to do to prove they changed there oils so they can continue to receive a warranty?
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Old 06-13-2009, 08:07 PM   #49 (permalink)
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Do you need a NEW washer between the drain bolt and the oil pan every time you change the oil?
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Old 06-13-2009, 08:30 PM   #50 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Forrest View Post
What does one need to do to prove they changed there oils so they can continue to receive a warranty?
I say just write them down in the maintenance guide (oil and filter brand with mileage info) that came with the car. I can't see dealer voiding warranty for oil change (as long as you know what you're doing)



Quote:
Originally Posted by Cypress View Post
Do you need a NEW washer between the drain bolt and the oil pan every time you change the oil?
Yes. It only costs $1.04. You cannot reuse copper OEM washer because it compresses as you tighten (one time use only).
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Old 06-13-2009, 10:28 PM   #51 (permalink)
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Is that a Nissan washer AK? Get it at the dealer?
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Old 06-13-2009, 10:45 PM   #52 (permalink)
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Is that a Nissan washer AK? Get it at the dealer?
Yes. You can buy the washer from ANY Nissan dealer.
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:03 PM   #53 (permalink)
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Question:

I've heard some stuff about how to change the oil in a brand new car, namely the 370Z; something like the very first oil change is 500 miles, using petroleum-based, not synthetic, oil.

Is there anything about that concerning this car?
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Old 06-14-2009, 04:08 PM   #54 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370Z Purist View Post
Question:

I've heard some stuff about how to change the oil in a brand new car, namely the 370Z; something like the very first oil change is 500 miles, using petroleum-based, not synthetic, oil.

Is there anything about that concerning this car?
Search for "ester" within the forum. There's like 43028429 threads regarding its use.
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Old 06-14-2009, 05:00 PM   #55 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370Z Purist View Post
Question:

I've heard some stuff about how to change the oil in a brand new car, namely the 370Z; something like the very first oil change is 500 miles, using petroleum-based, not synthetic, oil.

Is there anything about that concerning this car?
Very good question. Nissan USA want you to take your car in for the first oil change at 3750 miles. I personally think that's way too long (for the first oil change). There are simply too many particles flowing around that can damage the internals. So, I did my first oil change at 2000 miles with regular oil at the dealer.

You should wait till at least 3000 miles before switching to synthetic (I switched at 3800 miles). Again some members here switched as early as 1200 miles but it's recommended to wait about 3000 miles.

Here's a discussion you can check out:
Does oil temp affacts to performance?

Quote:
Originally Posted by another thread
Quote:
Originally Posted by leepeen View Post
I already put pennzoil platinum full synthetic oil at approxi 600 miles...
With stock oil, i used to hit 240F even if i drove like a grandma...
Now, i only hit above 250F when i rev until 7000~7500rpm for sport driving.

Therefore,

Anyway, i got few questions....

1. Why should i wait until i hit 3000 miles for synthetic?

2. Why people recommend redline synthetic oil for 370Z?

Thx for reply...
Hey Leepeen, I have just walked outside my house (it's 2:55 AM) to get to my shed to get the Redline bottle so that I can show you the pic!



As you can see, they want you to wait at least 3,000 miles (I did around 3800. Semtex, wstar I believe did the same 4-5K miles). Even though few will say that the rings will seal properly within 20 miles of driving, but some still believe you should use factory oil to seal the rings properly and drive 3-5K miles. But there were members who changed/switched to synthetic within 1200 miles (if that makes you feel better). I am still an old school follower who follows everything by book.

I like redline because it's a good oil. They use good stuff just like Motul. But I didn't pick Motul because I don't track my car. Motul is labeled as racing oil where Redline has two different oil - one is regular synthetic (which is what I have) and the other is Racing Synthetic. Racing oils tend to lack the important detergents to keep the engine clean on daily driven cars. If you'll be tracking your car a lot (like Semtex, RCZ or Travis) go with Motul or Redline Racing oil. If you are going to drive street/highway 90% of the time go Redline Synthetic or Amsoil.

Check out this post here DIY: Nissan 370Z Oil change (AK370Z way) Pictures inside also watch the video if you have time:
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Old 06-14-2009, 05:43 PM   #56 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AK370Z View Post
Very good question. Nissan USA want you to take your car in for the first oil change at 3750 miles. I personally think that's way too long (for the first oil change). There are simply too many particles flowing around that can damage the internals. So, I did my first oil change at 2000 miles with regular oil at the dealer.

You should wait till at least 3000 miles before switching to synthetic (I switched at 3800 miles). Again some members here switched as early as 1200 miles but it's recommended to wait about 3000 miles.

Here's a discussion you can check out:
Does oil temp affacts to performance?
Thanks for the information. I'll probably look into doing the oil change myself at around 1750-2000 miles. Time to set the alarm interval in the 370Z's dash; I thought that's an awesome idea. Do you recommend changing oil every 3k miles? Mind you, I'll be doing moderate amounts of stop-and-go so I'm thinking every 3k, instead of 5k like most oils last for.

Maybe I'll go with Redline or Royal Purple, but since RP doesn't use ester base... well, Redline will do, even though it costs more than already expensive RP.

I also saw in your DIY oil change that you used magnetic bolts and a filter attachment; should I get those and apply them now? This car is so new I wouldn't be surprised if the oil filter came out with what seems like sand in it. I guess I might use a larger filter as well; experiencing high oil temps (around 220-240, once 250) and I read someone's thread on how his larger filter dropped temperatures dramatically.
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Old 06-15-2009, 12:48 AM   #57 (permalink)
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Yes, you CAN use synthetic oil from the get-go - you do NOT have to wait 3000 miles. Here is some info straight from Mobil (Mobil_Oil_Myths):

Quote:
Myth: You should break in your engine with conventional oil, then switch to a synthetic oil like Mobil 1.
Reality:
You can start using Mobil 1 in new vehicles at any time, even in brand new vehicles. In fact, Mobil 1 is original equipment (it is installed at the factory) in:
Acura RDX
Aston Martin
All Bentley Vehicles
All Cadillac Vehicles
Chevrolet Corvette C6 and Z06
Chevrolet TrailBlazer SS
Chrysler 300C SRT-8
Cobalt SS S/C Coupe
Dodge Caliber SRT-4, Charger SRT-8, and Magnum SRT-8
Jeep Cherokee SRT-8
Mercedes-Benz AMG Vehicles
Mercedes SLR
Mitsubishi Evolution
Pontiac Solstice GXP
All Porsche Vehicles
Saturn Ion Red Line and Saturn Sky Red Line
Viper SRT-10
One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars listed above, Mobil 1 can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.
Redline recommends waiting 3,000 miles primarily for rebuilt engines - not fresh engines from major manufacturers; here's a quote from Road & Track Technical Correspondence Column (9 years ago, emphasis below added, link is Redline_break-in_link):

Quote:
Redline, on the other hand, has found it best to recommend a mineral oil break-in. Occasionally an engine will glaze its cylinder walls when initially run on Redline, they say, so by using a mineral oil for 2000 miles, verifying there is no oil consumption and then switching to the synthetic, glazing is eliminated.

Cylinder-wall glazing is not a deposit left on the cylinder wall, but rather a displacement of cylinder-wall metal. This happens when the high spots of the cylinder wall crosshatch are not cut or worn off by the piston rings, but rather rolled over into the valleys or grooves of the crosshatch. This leaves a surface that oil adheres to poorly, against which the rings cannot seal well. Compression is lost and oil consumed, and the only cure is to tear down the engine to physically restore the cylinder-wall finish by honing.

Why is glazing not a problem for the major manufacturer? Because they have complete, accurate control over their cylinder-wall finish and ring type. Redline deals with a huge variety of engines and manufacturers, both OEM and from the aftermarket. Cylinder-wall finish and ring type thus vary greatly, and glazing can therefore occur, albeit rarely.
Another interesting tidbit from the same link:

Quote:
Exxon/Mobil's official policy is that their synthetic oil may be used at any mileage, including factory fill, unless otherwise stated by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil pointed out, as you did, that all Corvettes, Vipers, Porsches and Aston Martins are factory filled with Mobil 1 synthetic. We can only conclude that improvements in cylinder-wall finish and ring design or materials makes this possible.

It is also likely that vehicle manufacturers not using synthetics as the factory fill are also not optimizing their cylinder and ring packages for the slippery sythetics, in which case approximately 1000 miles on mineral oil should prove ample break-in time. In fact, in modern engines a very high percentage of ring break-in takes place very quickly, probably in the first 10 to 20 minutes of engine running. Certainly, some final lapping of the rings and cylinders takes place over several hundred miles after initial break-in.

Just to add some confusion, Porsche dynos all of its engines before installing them in the chassis. We were unable to determine what oil is used for the dyno session, but would presume it's Mobil 1.
BTW, anyone know what type of oil that Nissan puts in at the factory? I'd bet it's synthetic...

Last edited by VCuomo; 06-15-2009 at 01:11 AM.
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Old 06-15-2009, 01:10 AM   #58 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370Z Purist View Post
...I also saw in your DIY oil change that you used magnetic bolts and a filter attachment; should I get those and apply them now? This car is so new I wouldn't be surprised if the oil filter came out with what seems like sand in it...
AK used a magnetic drain plug - wait until your first oil and oil filter change and replace the stock (non-magnetic) plug with the magnetic one, and place the filter magnet on the new oil filter.

And you should be VERY surprised "if the oil filter came out with what seems like sand in it" - modern engine manufacturing tolerances are way too tight for that type of thing. If it was normal for that type of debris to be present in a new engine, Nissan would tell you to do the first oil change within the first 500 miles (or probably sooner).

Last edited by VCuomo; 06-15-2009 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 06-15-2009, 01:18 AM   #59 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AK370Z View Post
Very good question. Nissan USA want you to take your car in for the first oil change at 3750 miles. I personally think that's way too long (for the first oil change). There are simply too many particles flowing around that can damage the internals. So, I did my first oil change at 2000 miles with regular oil at the dealer.
AK, it's really not too long for the first oil change. These days, there are not "too many particles" that break loose in a fresh engine from a major manufacturer - engines are machined to much tighter tolerances today. If there were particles "flowing around that can damage the internals", Nissan wouldn't want the warranty problems (the oil cooler debacle is proof of that) and would tell you to change the oil much sooner.

But you certainly can't do any harm by changing the oil sooner than the recommended 3750 miles!

Last edited by VCuomo; 06-15-2009 at 11:21 AM.
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Old 06-15-2009, 09:00 PM   #60 (permalink)
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Default oil change intervals/oil brands

I only have approx. 850 miles on my 370Z and as yet have not changed out the oil yet. I used Mobil 1 5W-30 and Amsoil 0W-30 with OEM oil filter in my previous 350Z without any noticeable oil consumption/oil presssure issues on a daily driven car.

I am curious on other members feedback using Amsoil's EA oil filter or Amsoil's remote by-pass oil filter on their 370Z.
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