200 degree thermostat for low oil temps
 

For guys in the northern parts and have problems with low oil temps you may try a 200 deg thermostat. In south Fl we don't have that problem of low oil temps.
The 200 deg thermostat will bypass most of the oil until temps reach 200deg
then fully open to the oil cooler.
Just a thought.

info on mocal thermo sandwich plate

http://97.74.103.94/files/thermos$.pdf?Submit1=More+Information+and+Pricing

Race Parts Wholesale will customize their standard 180 degree thermostatic plate to 200 degrees on request (for a fee of course).

180 minimum is good for me! At the present my temp range has been 185-205.

My understanding is that with thermostatic sandwich plates (Mocal) flow below the temp setting i.e. 180 is 90/10 meaning the flow through the sandwich to the oil cooler is 10% of max or 90% restricted. As temps climb above 180 the ratio changes and thus more oil is allowed to enter the oil cooler. I opted to scratch build my oil cooler and the process was quite easy with the help of this and Vipors DIY. Of note, I did prefill my oil cooler just prior to final intall

Jim,

did you do the socketless? How many miles so far since the install?

No, stainless steel AQP (Aeroquip). Only 300+ miles since install and reinspected last night....everything intact. I used 3/4 heater hose split with clamps at all contact points. The cooler is a Setrab series 6, 24 row. I dont track the car and drive pretty conservatively but easily run 20-25 deg cooler....will see this summer as temp here are still pretty mild. I have read most of the comments about the hose failures and I too am concerned...not with my fittings or hose but with the amount of slack that may need to be required....when you do this install you will see that there just isnt that much room to play with. I routed my hose according to Vipors technique with no problems. However, the gap between the sandwich fittings and the bottom panel is essentially nonexistent. I wanted to use straight fitting off the sandwich, and actually purchased these, but the sway just wont allow it. My saving grace is probably the fact that I just dont 'get on it' much and consequently motor movement is low.

This 'slack issue' appears to be the unknown and the biggest concern. What is unknown, at least to me, is the direction of the pull against the hose. In other words, is the motor pulling, pushing....? Coupled with the sway bar movement, is the hose being pulled up and/or down?

My hoses were routed in an 'S' shape form to allow for left/right/up/down/forward/back movements of the motor and sway bar. This of course, is my non-engineering guess/solution. I will post pictures soon and will welcome any type of input/flame. :)

So far, I do not have any issues with the socketless setup. I do plan on removing the 'collars' where the hoses end. I believe they are there for aesthetic purposes. Once removed, I will use one (just 1) small clamp or zip-tie. I do not think having once clamp at the very end of the hose will Not destroy the inner lining of the hose.

Oil cooler lines
 

From a previous post from Modshack I believe he said not to use any ties or clamps on socket less hose ends. Also the collar on the socket hose ends are not there for looks they help hold the hose onto the fittings, I don't think it would be a good idea to remove them, they are there for a purpose.

If you get your hose lengths correct ( measure once, measure twice) an inch or 2 longer can't hurt. You can have both hoses made with crimp on fittings for $120 including shipping. Hosemachine.com.

I have said this before routing and clamping is the main focus on these lines.
I have not installed mine yet. I have the parts but not the hoses and I am certainlly going to use crimp ons. But I want to look at all possibilities for the install.

On all the posts the hoses are at the bottom of the mocal sanwich plate. Has anyone looked at other positions for the mocal plate. The bottom looks like its easy but is it the best position.:stirthepot:

Those collars do NOT hold the hoses. They are there just to have a clean finish look.

Billy,
I had planned to use straight Aeroquip fittings off the Mocal plate directed to the front of the car...approx 90 deg from the "bottom" position but found this was just not possible due to other engine componets/sway bar. You can play with it but I think you too will find it not to be an option. Good luck

Just ordered everything to put this cooler together. Thanks Mod.

I hope building the lines won't be a problem. I don't see how it could be that hard but that means it'll end up taking 3x longer than it should.

I just ordered everything, except the Sandwich plate it back ordered. hopefully I'll get it before the end of June cuz I wanna track with an oil cooler. Thanks Modshack for the helpful info though.

An awesome write up thanks for the info on this.

Oil cooler
 

Thanks Modshack just finished mind but went to Jegs and bought a oil cooler kit rated for 300+hp for $230.00. Ran my lines with the other cooler lines so.. I went above the sway bar out the side the drilled those two holes went behind the other silver colored cooler in front with my lines to the new oil cooler will post pics tomorrow. My kit had me use silver clamps at the fittings

A couple of parts are on back order from RPW. Evidently they have been delayed because of the volcano.

Got a link? I can't find what you are talking about on Jegs.

Uh oh!
 

So I bought the parts for my oil cooler from Jegs (800 line ) then went to the store and picked up everything OK install went great (routed my lines a little differently followed other cooler lines)meaning went off the sandwich then up and over the frame keeping lines free ..wanted to stay above sway bar ..anyhow put the filter on and started up the car and oil everywhere turns out the kit from Jegs requires a 3 1/4 di. filter with a 20mm thread! stock is 3 1/8!. All works fine now and larger filter more oil cooler engine Thanks Mod shack
Parts:1 57046 Wix oil filter $5.00
2 110107 Flare to pipe Adapter -08AN to 3/8"black
4 110072 PushLoc 90 degree hose end -08AN black
1 15605 Jegs part# 500hp oil coller kit w/sandwich
Jegs bill $ 232.62
7 qts. ester oil from nissan $ $70.00
Total $307.62
and a lot of fun. Jegs phone # 616-294-5151 Columbus, Ohio

cooler
 

Just got back from SE Ohio roads oil never reached 210 mostly stayed @ 200 again Thanks Modshack!

Update of oil cooler install
 

What lenghts of hose did you end up with. How was the routing no critical bends? How many anti chaffing clamps did you use if you did, no tie wraps I hope?

TRU-COOL L7B 24 row
#10 stainless covered teflon hose 10' long
# 10 stainless parker hanifin crimp fittings
mocal sandwich plate 180 deg
1/2 npt to #10 an 90 for cooler
1/2 npt to #10 an straight for mocal sandwich plate, if I need 90's I will change out.
redline oil which I am already running, I may lose a little when I change out filter.

Well I finally did the oil cooler yesterday. Went pretty easy. I am sorry that I did not take any pictures. I was too darn hot from the S Florida Sun.
I used parker hanifin crimped fittings wth stainless braide hose. The route that I took was to knock out one of plastic molded squares on the bottom passenger side, radiator mount ? Some of them are full squares about 2" by 2" by 2", the one that I knocked out was only 1/4" thick just above the transmission cooler lines. This made for a good routing. Up over the aluminum frame straight down to the mocal plate with 90 deg fittings. Used the transmission cooler brackets to install hose clamps one for each line.
Today I got the Hotchkis sway bars on while I had the front splash quard off.
Installed in the second hole and see how it handles there.

Ran it pretty hard on some farm back roads. Temp got to 210 and stayed there and I was at a buck and just over, stopping and getting on it for a while. With out the cooler I know that I would have been at 250+. Looks like a winner to me.

Mag Black B&M short shifter, cold air intake with inverted cone, Hotchkis swaybars, 25 row oil cooler, Invidia Exhaust, Osiris Tuned

Sorry for not having any pix but I will take some next time I pull the nose off...
I just finished my cooler install. I went with a 34 row Setrab, 210 degree Mocal sandwich plate and Aeroquip reusable fittings. I spec'ed the large cooler to combat the lack of cooling here in Colorado due to thin air, low humidiity and high temps. I spec'ed the 210 degree plate so the oil temps woud get high enough to boil off any moisture in the system.
I used Modshack's hose routing scheme except I accessed the cooler from the top.
A few interesting notes:

• The 34 row cooler is big and requires an alternate mounting scheme because the standard bracket doesn't allow the cooler to be optimally positioned. The Z1 Motorsports pictures showing the Nissan Motorsports cooler install has a smaller core (even though they state a 34 row) and does not represent the 34 row Setrab that I installed.
• I ended up installing some rivet nuts into the lower aluminium cross bar to mount the cooler.
• I used clear tubing to prevent the SS hose form abrading other parts of the car and keep the good looks of the SS hose.
• The hoses are easy to make. I recommend using the Aeroquip soft vice jaws and an aluminum wrench so you don't mar the fittings.

So far oil temps have not exceeded 210 on the street. I will be at the track next weekend and should be able to provide an update.

What temps were you running on the street before the install? What temps are you getting now (I realize you said under 210...160?, 180?). Since the Mocal doesn't completely bypass the cooler, you may be overcooling with such a large core on the street. Unless it's really cool where you are, you may be getting adequate cooling without the thermostat evening opening up full flow to the cooler. If you're at least getting to 180F pretty quickly, then you're golden and have a big cooler for the track days.

Temp before the install was running 210-230 on the street. Temp now will hit 210 in about 15 minutes and hold steady. Overcooling isn't an issue so far with morning ambient in the low 50's.
It will be in the 90's this weekend at High Plains Raceway. I look forward to seeing how well the cooler works.

Update:
Temp at the track Saturday hit the upper 80's. Oil temps reached 240 max.
Heading to the track in the AM, air temp was low 50's. Oil temp reached 170 and held when I was cruising hwy in 6th gear @80 mph.
I would probably need to partially cover the cooler in the winter but I store the car when the snow hits.

Hi Modshack, I was going over your DIY and decided to do it myself but I just now noticed that your fotki album is PW protected. Can you post/PM the PW or make it public? I recall a lot of useful pictures there. Thanks.

Oil cooler results
Well I finally took the car one a little ride here in S Fl total 120 miles, Fl Turnpike and I95.
Port Saint Lucie to DelRay Beach and back.

To DelRay Outside Air Temp 93 cruising at 80-90 oil temps were at 210. Before oil cooler 220+
Back to PSL Outside Air Temp 86 cruising at 80-90 oil temps 195. Before oil cooler 220+.

Works good for me

Here are pics of my hose routing. Right, wrong, or indifferent, it was my way of taking into account the motor flexing right, left, up, down, etc. Oh, and I do realize the ties at the end are not recommended; however, I am keeping them anyway as they are only at the very end. So far so good:

^^ very good idea for those worried about flex. tons of slack there!

I just installed mine and noticed a potential issue, though I'm hoping it's minor.

Look at Cab83's 3rd and 4th pictures (and see my pic). The sway bar is just above the lines and is unloaded while on jack stands. When we drop the car to the ground, the ends of the sway bar move up while the middle portion pivots down. This will push down on the lines, depending on your configuration. I'm hoping that loading the suspension in corners or braking doesn't move the sway enough to work the lines loose. The closer you run the lines to the sway hinge, the better off you'll be.

***A huge thanks to Modshack for all of his help with this. Made it a very simple install***

I didn't like how low the lines were sitting under the sway bar, I ended up running the lines over it by using the left side to run the inlet and right side of the bumper to run the outlet of the oil cooler

http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/2483/dsc3270h.th.jpg

^^ interesting.

I ran mine under the sway bar because the bar twists, it does not go up and down for the most part. And my line runs right next to the mounting point to the frame, so it wont move up or down in that area.

Did this on saturday, I used to get 220-230 on the way home everyday and it was only a 8 mile drive. I was afraid if i wanted to cruise for 20+ miles i'd be way up there so i went ahead and did this.

Yup...If the lines are run close to the pivot there is little movement. I just pulled my cooler off yesterday and noticed no issues with the lines. Temps went up 20 degrees to 220 on my drive after..

Does my Modshack-sense detect a pending sale of said oil cooler kit? :yum:

Errr...yeah, to my buddy Zpirate...He needs more Modshack Luv...Sorry!

It's all good. You're cooler is too small for me, anyways. :p

:icon18::icon18:

Hey modshack

Do you know if the Stillen package (including the other cooler packages) use the same hose routing as yours? I don't envision the SS braided lines can be routed in the hole per Vipor's thread.

Thanks

No idea if the hose lengths allow that or not. Plus some use AN8 lines which are smaller and can be routed as Vipor did. The larger AN10 lines may not fit..

First I gotta say thanks Modshack:tiphat:

And then thanks to all the other input on this thread that helped me put together what I think is a rock solid install.

Decided to go with the stainless steel lines even though the assembly is a little tougher it makes for a lot of piece of mind. Routed the lines over the sway bar and to the driver side. This was done using one 90 fitting and one 45 deg, which allowed the lines to easily clear the sway bar. I didn't like the idea of the lines being that low on the car (crappy roads here).

Results, ECR track day and temps never got above 230. :driving:

This is opposed to my first track day being cut short with 280 deg temps. :confused:

Hopes this helps any others attempting this install.

http://www.the370z.com/members/fastj...1262010141.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/fastj...1262010142.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/fastj...1262010146.jpg

http://www.the370z.com/members/fastj...1262010147.jpg

^^ Looks Good :tup: ^^

I dont even have my 370 yet, but am likely going to do this mod. Was wondering if you used the same mock bracket up top as at the bottom and is there a place to mount the top, such as the lower composite piece used?....and does this mounting setup leave a space between the oil cooler and the rad, or do they touch, in which case I would need some rubber in between?

Thanks!!

Rob