These are the two filters I ended up buying. Both are about the same size. I think my problem was the seal. Its different on same size filters. For my application the stock seal/filter did not completely cover the sandwich plate and that's where the leak on mine was. I have the from filter on now and it works just fine. This size is bigger allowing more oil to be filtered easier since I'm up to about 8 quarts with the oil cooler and the pan spacer. I'm no expert but I think this was the right choice. Hope this helps. :TUP:
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I have the z1motorsports 34row kit with setrab cooler on mine. Love it. Best mod so far. Temps barely get over 180 degrees. Install was cake. I use the nismo oil filter on mine. No issues

Braided lines might protect from cuts but, unless covered by another hose, are very well known to saw through anything it rubs against. Do a search for braided lines and AC condenser line cuts...you will find they are pretty damaging to whatever is around them. So you have to decide between the 2 evils.

Yeah, I wrapped mine in split rubber hoses (e.g. old PCV hoses) where they touched anything. But still, as a default position I'd rather have just about anything else on the car cut instead of those oil hoses. Only possible exception is the fuel line, but it shouldn't be anywhere near the oil cooler hoses anyways. Cut / blown-out oil cooler line = destroyed engine very very quickly.

Nice writeup! Looks very clean

I have installed this mod on my '12 manual. It's been installed for about 5,500 miles now but I've noticed, while driving the tail of the dragon that my temps were right up at 220. Even with some high-rev aggressive driving, I can easily get the temp to 210.

I did install the stillen G3 intake, HFC, and exhaust as well as a uprev tune pushing the car to about 320 whp on a hot day (it was tuned on a hot day ~90F).

I'm thinking about bumping up the cooler size to keep the temps down a bit more. Any ideas? Thanks

Or add a pan spacer or finned pan and increase the oil capacity a little more. Change the fluids again.

Thinking about trying to get this kit, but I do have a question about the mounting bracket. Is it sufficient enough to hold the oil cooler on the bottom only?

Anyone know where I can find this part? I tried a regular U Nut (like what's used on the bumper) and it's too wide. Searching online doesn't show this part, which is used on the other side for the power steering cooler!

installing this kit today, question for the braided steel lines and AN fittings people, are you also putting thread sealant on the AN fittings? When its time for an oil change, and break the seal on the AN fitting to drain the oil cooler, are you also re-applying the thread sealant back on after the drain?

I just installed mine, I didn't use any sealant on the fittings.

My install. Decided to run the lines to the right and they fit better that way.

thanks for the info, i'm finishing with the braided lines without the thread sealant. I'm only using sealant on the sandwich plate fittings and oil cooler. did you notice any leaks without? How long should you wait for the sealant to cure for those who went that route? (says nothing on the brand sealant i boought)

I used the sealant on both sets of couplers. You don't need to wait for it to cure you can plug it right in and go

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assuming no clearance issues with the bumper, etc, are there any cons to having the oil cooler off to one side of the radiator and running much shorter lines? for example, placing it where the washer fluid reservoir is?

Yes. Airflow. :twocents:

Yeah it kinda loses its purpose then

ah so it sounds like it just comes down to getting enough air through the cooler? i have a g37 and the bumper has large openings that would allow air to flow to those areas. i guess my original question was more about the lines themselves and whether or not there was a reason not to shorten the lines so much

This has been a huge hassle for me so far.

Weekend #1: lay all the parts out and start taking the car apart. Realize that they sent me mismatched fittings even though I ordered the -10 kit. I got -10 on one side, and -12 for the 90's. Called them and they sent out the correct size (slowly...)

Weekend #2:
http://www.the370z.com/members/evens...161516-hdr.jpg

So, the 90d fittings that plug into the oil cooler are facing OPPOSITE of eachother and there is no way to get them to grab/thread so they are facing the same way. On top of this, the one on the right is STUCK in the tru cool oil cooler and no amount of force, wrenching, leverage was able to unscrew it. Now it's stuck in there facing the wrong way and all scratched up.

I really appreciate this write-up; it was very good. Unfortunately for me, the hassle of all of this and trying to fab up a bracket isn't worth the 200 bucks I saved by not buying a pre-built kit.

I had issues also and it was a pain in the *** trying to rotate the fitting. You might have to use a vice to try to rotate the whole cooler to move, and you might have to order a new fitting if it's all scratched up like that. Also be careful with the cooler because it is made out of aluminum and it will bend.

Glad to know I wasn't the sole person out there that had the issue. At this point it is STUCK. I used vice grips, vice, everything. It's not coming out. The cooler will start to bend at this point before I even get movement on the fitting.

I just can't believe that this isn't mentioned anywhere. Is it the luck of the draw on what 2309 90d fittings you get? Do the oil coolers grab threaded differently? The only thing I can think of is to just use the straight fittings and then a 90 fitting like the one that comes off of the sandwich plate. I need to buy a whole new tru cool now which really annoys me.

DIY: Oil Cooler (scratch built install, lottsa pics).....>.
 

As I was tightening the fittings I noticed one did not turn as much as the other so I had to stop. The other fitting seemed to be able to turn more on the threads. Did you have a hard time threading it on? Yeah the cooler is aluminum so it can bend easy. Sounds like you might be SOL. Might have to order another one. They're not that expensive. Be more careful next time and thread it on slowly. You can also wrap the fitting in a cloth to protect it from damage.

In my case, both 90's threaded with the same amount of resistance, so it would have been impossible to get them both pointing the same way without doing this damage.

I called RPW and they were really nice. They gave me a break on the replacement oil cooler and also the 90d swivel fittings that I will now be using. I would recommend using the 90 swivel fittings (like the ones at the sandwich plate) so that you don't get yourself into this situation where the 2 90 fittings off of the oil cooler refuse to thread so that they both face the same way. Live and learn.

Gonna be doing this soon!

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I had the same issue so I had to make sure they both pointed in the same direction.

I know this is an old post but I figured I would share my old install pics.. the piece I found to mount the cooler was an actual "tool" I found in home depot. Just drilled for custom mounting. It had a slotted groove on both sides that slid onto the mounting area and the cooler. Then I just drilled and secured with bolts. I also removed the metal "bumper" underneath the bumper for airflow and weight reduction. Say what you will but that metal bar is not stopping something traveling at 60+ mph regardless... might stop the engine from ending up in your lap... just drive correctly and be careful. Thats my disclaimer. Hope this helps.

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but my questions are relevant to this particular install.

As some have pointed out, most other kits/instructions suggest mounting the cooler with the fittings on top. I understand the merits of mounting it fittings-down. One thing that the fittings-up method allows for is the "priming" of the cooler with a quart of oil before the sump itself is refilled after the install. Without being able to prime the cooler, what is the correct method to go about the refill? In my mind you would need to turn the car on to begin circulation, then turn off to add more oil once it's made it's way through the cooler. With the thermo. plate will the cooler fill up enough without bringing the car up to 180+ before adding the last quart of oil?

Are there any installs of the 36/48 row coolers? Were there any fitment issues?

My Z is 2017, so I have the oem oil/water cooler, which I believe is just another sandwich plate behind the filter. Do I have to remove that ( :( ) or are able to just stack the two sandwich plates back to back ( :) )

Sandwich plate leak
 

Longshot as the thread is so old, but has anyone had issues with seepage from the seal between the mocal sandwich and the OEM sandwich for the small cooler?

It seems the centre threaded fitting doesn't tighten the sandwich down all the way, as if its designed so that the oil filter installation does the final seal compression. With the 1" fitting tightened down the sandwich can still rotate without too much effort. Is this normal or do others find its sealed up tight before the filter is installed?

The seepage starts after a 2 or 3 100km drives only, when I check it I find the sandwich fairly easy to rotate when I move it by grabbing the hose fittings.

Wouldn't mind some comparisons before I remove the OEM cooler and try again with the Mocal installed directly on the block.