Just want everyone to know that it is more expensive to buy these kits bit by bit when racerpartswholesale.com sells the kit with all those pieces listed at around 40 bucks cheaper.

Here's the link www.racerpartswholesale.com - Oil Cooler Kits

It's 249.95 for the complete kit. Even less if you opt out for the thermostatic sandwich plate.

Already been posted in this thread here over a year ago

FYI - The "MOC-SP1FT Mocal Sandwich Plate- 20mm Thread" has a 1" nut and requires a deep socket (depth is 1 1/8" or greater) but a Outer diameter of 1.41" is too large (i.e. thick walled impact socket), but 1.33" OD will work. Not sure the maximum OD other than it's between those values.

You can fit an adjustable wrench in but it's easier to install with a socket.

Pulled it out here recently to swap out the Aeroquip socketless hose after a friends setup blew off the line and mine was uncomfortably pulling away (~2mm gap). BTW he had plenty of slack and had daily driven the car for a month, but it didn't pop off till a track day.

From the beginning of the oil line problems with the oil cooler I immediatelly advocated crimped fittings so that there would never be a problem. Have been running oil cooler for over a year now and no problems. For $7.50 a fitting it was a no brainer for me.

Would there be a difference between using -8 lines instead of -10? I installed everything in the DIY except that I used smaller lines. In 105 degree F heat, it averaged a little below 220. Does that sound right? It never went over that while I was pushing it a little bit here and there.

New update:
I think it is fine. I have been cruising around and the temparture is at 190 in 105 F degree weather.

How did this hold up? I think I would like to route my lines the same way. I am worried about the fittings being below the pan.

Can anyone tell me what size the fitting is coming out of the sandwhich plate? I know the hose end is 10an obviously but what is the other side. I think the used setup I bought has the wrong size because it doesn't thread in very far... I'm pretty sure that isn't normal. I'll have to order new ones.

The Mocal sandwich plate uses BSP fittings, someone may have attempted to use an NPT fitting which will work but will get hung up halfway in. If it isn't leaking I would be tempted to leave it.

The fitting you likely need is 1/2" BSP to -10 AN. There is also a high-flow version of the sandwich plate that uses 22mm fittings but I haven't seen anyone use that one yet. Of course this is assuming that it is a Mocal.

Yes it is... I'm not very comfortable and I am thinking it is NPT not BSP because it is blue (not typical for mocal fittings) and barely fits in. Doesn't go far enough that I would feel comfortable. Guess I'll be parking the Z for the weekend.

Matt,

The fitting you need is a MOC-BM810A. These are sold as a pair MOC-2BM810A. They are in stock at Racer Part Wholesale. Racer Parts Wholesale - Racing Parts, Safety Equipment & Motorcycle Accessories
Here is a direct link:
- Mocal 1/2 BSP x -10 fitting

Thanks,
Jack Borsos
RPW

Thanks jborsos I actually ordered it today before I even saw your post. You work there right? You should have an order for me.

Yes, I'm the General Manager at RPW. I'm not in the office this morning but if you've placed the order I'm sure it has been processed.

Thank you for the order.
Jack

Yep should be delivered today! Great service (sight unseen of course) and prices.

Is there any specified torque range for torquing the fittings to the mocal adapter? Or the adapter to the engine? I got my parts from B.A.T. fittings in florida, who work in line with mocal. Just curious if anyone knows any more of the specs.
+1 matt witht he clear hose idea for insulation/noise reduction on the hoses. Man that is a cheap/dope idea, definitely goin to do that instead of heat shrink. :D

mattp725 - The setup has held up for almost a year now with no issues and no worries hitting a fitting on our crappy Texas roads. If you have not already finished your install I highly recommend this setup.

NICE! i have a noob question, are the number of rows make a big difference? Also, how come the Mocal Reusable 45 Degree Hose End is not listed on the website? thanks

Where did u get the 45 degree fitting from? I couldn't find it on the whole sale racing website except for the titanium kind. Also, is that a custom bracket holding the oil cooler?

joebeast,

We have the 45 degree fitting by Aeroquip in stock. Currently the price is a bit better. I'll get the Mocal 45 degree online by the end of the day if you want that brand. It will be next week before we have any in stock though. Functionally they install and perform the same.
Reusable Fittings - Aeroquip 45 Degree Reusable Elbow Fitting

Thank you for your interest.

Jack Borsos
General Manager
Racer Parts Wholesale

A couple of things I was curious about. Is there any better way to hook up the lines?.....meaning which is a feed and which a return and any diff where on the cooler I would hook them? Also, does any oil drain back into the pan from the cooler and or lines?.....making my dipstick reading totally inaccurate?

Thanks!!

Couple of ideas here, especially for the big rob. If you get the kit from z1 (its a really good kit) the hoses are routed from the frong drivers side by the radiator. It follows (or you can zip tie it) the crash bar and around the windshield washer fluid container. You have to trim off a little bit of the air shrouding (it shows in their instructions manual) to get it to route to the oil filter location. Also it doesn't matter which way you would route the hoses because the cooler will flow eithe way, BUT Z1 has one hose longer than the other. If you are referencing the car standing at the front, the longer hose fits on the drivers side and the shorter on the passenger. The difference in length is about 5 or 6 inches. Some oil will drain back into your pan which is just "line pressure. Your oil filters all come with a drain back valve so the increase in what you see in oil will not be too drastic. Make sure you fill the cooler up with oil before putting the lines in. hope this helps a little

Would teflon tape work just as good as the high temp sealant?

I would use the high temp sealant over the teflon tape. I used teflon tape and it was holding up fine for a while until one of my lines started to have a very small leak but a leak none the less. The sealant is extra peace of mind.

I'm interested in trying this install out in a little over a month. Saw this on the racer parts wholesale website and was wondering if this oil cooler kit has everything needed for the install on the Z. Includes the tru cool oil cooler, mocal sandwich plate, 10' of stainless braided hose, and "the necessary fittings". Not sure it has all the fittings we need since I don't see any 90* ones in the photo. If it does have everything, it would save a good $50 or so.

Oil Cooler Kits - Oil Cooler Kit with Thermostat

Edit: looks like this has been mentioned before and should be fine.

not a good kit don't waste your money or time. You will frustrate yourself in trying to connect the hoses to the fittings. INVEST in a reputable dealer or kit, like z1 or gtm.

Nvm, hose can't handle the heat.

B1ade,

We have sold hundreds of these kits with several being installed on 370Z's.
- Can the fittings be difficult to install on the hose? Perhaps. It depends on your skill and expertise. There are tools that make the job a snap. Koul Tools - KOUL Tools
or you can order the kit with the Aeroquip socketless hose.

- There is no issue with the hose handling heat.

Racer Parts Wholesale has sold parts and safety equipment to the amateur and professional racing community for over 20 years.

Full disclosure:
My name is Jack Borsos, General Manager or RPW

Jack,

if we were to go with the socketless hose would that reduce the price of the overall kit since we're not using the braided lines?

I bought the aeroquip SS hose and fittings from Racer Parts Wholesale and had good service and quality parts. Putting the lines together with the Koul Tool was easy, but it adds expense for a one off assembly. I did it because I'll probably be doing this more than once. The SS line is rated to 1000 psi and 300F (constant). Track tested and approved.

The socketless is rated to 250 psi which in theory is above the Z's bypass pressure of 150 psi but given the issues some had with fittings separating I think a little extra headroom provided by the SS lines is a good idea.

You'll save yourself about $20.00. If you want to go this route call me direct as we do not have a kit using socketless hose.

Jack

what is the difference between a 24 row and a 48 row? dumb question i know but im about to buy and oil cooler and dont know which one to get.

More cooling and larger cooler. 24 row (from what i have read) is plenty for a weekend or DD. Even tracking the car the 24 should suffice in keeping the oil cool.

I just installed mine this weekend and kit that Jack from RPW sent me was easy and seamless. I didnt get the "per piece" and went with the universal kit as it was cheaper. You just need to make sure when ordering, that you order the 90 degree elbow coming off the oil cooler. I ended up spending $16 a piece retail vs $11 a piece had i gotten them from RPW.

I would rate this install as a 3 out of 10 in difficulty for the average DIY'er.

Mod's instructions were right on the ONLY THING I WOULD MENTION is the plate that you need to fabricate be only 3 inches wide. From the original picture it looks much bigger (like 6 inches wide). I used a $6 deck flashing plate from Lowes and used an angle grinder to get it down to size. The plate is 16 gauge and has plenty of strength to not bend against wind pressure spray paint it black and make your mounting holes.

I have not ran the car yet so i cannot state how well the kit works but i will once i fire it up and check for leaks.

There's actually more to it than rows, what is actually important is frontal surface area. The larger the area the more cooling. The reason you can't compare rows: I have a 72 row oil cooler (Setrab series 1 is long and narrow) but the total area is the same as the 34 row (Setrab series 6). With there being many different manufacturers simply comparing rows is confusing (but often reasonable).

You don't need a large cooler unless you are hitting the track, but if you do with any regularity - go big.

so this evening I completed my install of the DIY oil cooler kit. as I said earlier stated I utilize the universal kid that came from RPW and chose the Blue Hose just that I could see if there's any leaks in any of the connections. I warmed the car up to 190 degrees and checked all fittings and hoses. I didn't seem to find any leaks at all and I used the pressure fit connection type connectors. here are the pictures of the final product.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/06/3avany8e.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/06/sagebyzy.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/06/edymytyj.jpg

Sent from my Palm Pilot circa 1997...

Aeroquip hoes and fitting install instruction page.
 

I found this link and wanted to share.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...structions.pdf

Going to put the kit on but I noticed nobody had this on there existing filter housing Attachment 90038 Do I add the sandwich plate to this? 2012 base manual.

I have the same thing on mine. 2012 base as well. I added the sammich plate on and with an oem size filter you should be ok.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

However.... The oem filter did not fit properly on my sammich plate.... I'm guessing... So I tried a couple different sizes and diameters. The last one I put on was a puralator which worked for a day... Then I check the fluid level and it looked like I needed a quart so I added one. Let it all sit overnight. When I started it up the next night to check it out it blew out oil from the filter again. Don't know what I am doing wrong. I bought the kit from someone on the forum and it looks like a complete custom kit. The only place that leaks is the filter. Kind of at a loss for words. I'm almost tempted to run the cooler lines off of the spacer and say **** the sandwich plate. Anybody ever seen anything like this. I think I'm going to call z1 tomorrow and see if I can get some expert advice.


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First of all, a big THANK YOU to the OP for this thread and all of the valuable information (as well as input from all the participating members).

I'll be honest, I skipped a few pages on this thread but has anyone tried out Stillen's oil cooler that uses the Gold core instead of the Setrab? The price for a 19 row is about 350, or 24 row for $15 more(without shipping)... which isn't too much more than the OP's setup considering the kit actually includes a thermostatic plate and steel braided lines.

http://www.stillen.com/product/engin...0632-8219.html

I'm wondering if anyone has tried this kit, how they like it, and if they had any issues. Also, does the kit come with any type of warranty? Stillen website doesn't specify any warranty.

I'm seriously considering this kit for the price and convenience of having a full kit. I don't like that I will have to use a different filter but that's really just something I need to get used to when changing it, so it's not a big deal.

What are your opinions?

Thanks in advance! :D

Braided lines are overrated and not necessary for our setup. The oil pump is not the powerful to pop the lines due to pressure. My kit was less than 250 to put together, actually, and that was with a 24 row cooler. You're paying for the name...all coolers do the exact same thing. Mine works just as well as the $550 z1 or Stillen for half the cost. nothing is gained by purchasing name brand gear in the instance. Also racer wholesale parts.com has a complete kit for 250 with the braided lines.

Oh and you don't need a different filter btw...I used the same that is recommended for our cars from the manufacture

Putting together your own kit is fine, but please do use steel-braided lines. Things will rub on things, sometimes in ways you don't expect. Braided lines is cheap insurance against a cut hose.