ohh...i guess what i was asking was the setrab oil coolers show the setup with the hoses coming out of the top( stillen, Nissan Motor sport) if you were to get one of these would you be able to flip it so the hoses are on the bottom..-----sorry if this is a stupid question.

Sure...Just a matter of fabbing up the right brackets..

mod, does setrab,mocal, or trucool have a cooler core thats wider but shorter... just like ARC's oil cooler....

Some info on winter temps and a simple mod to keep your temps up now posted at the end of the DIY

I ordered the parts, they were shipped, and I'm awaiting arrival. I'm excited to do this upgrade and will post when I'm finished! Thanks!

Update 1/19/09 - Finished the install, cleared up any leaks & also did the differential & transmission fluids. Running it hard results in a temp of 185F (ambient temp 60F). Since I live in Texas, the reason for doing this was the summer heat. I'll report back when its 110F outside.

Spec'd out a 25 Row Setrab cooler and pretty much everything else the same. Have to buy the bracket separately. Increases the price a lot though. $500 shipped.

here's the bracket:
Mocal Oil Coolers - Mocal 235 Matrix Oil Cooler Bracket

thanks for the info Mod, that site is cheap compared to everyone else :tup:

2 questions...

1. Has anyone tried doing the install without removing the bumper? I was doing my oil change the other day and it seems like this is definitely possible. Just wondering if anyone else has tried.

2. Are you guys attaching the bracket to the 2 holes on the plastic cross member? How are you doing this? Just bolts, washers, and nuts?

1) NOT advisable. Don't be freaked out by the bumper removal...It's basically a 15 minute job, if that. Once you have the lower pan off, it is 6-8 plastic rivets along the top and (2) 10mm bolts at the sides.

2) Yes, I just attached my bracket to those holes with some bolts, washers and nylock nuts that won't vibrate loose.

Hey Modshak,

this is probably off topic and I apologize in advance for changing the topic, but how are you liking the purolator oil filter? I have been using K&N HP-1008 but I have heard great things about Purolator. I am kinda looking for your own input on the purolator vs others you've used in past . I think I want to try some other oil filters.

Thanks.

AK, I hope you don't mind me chiming in here. Purolator is a great oil filter. In my opinion, I would run it over the K&N in a heartbeat. Another brand I would try would be Wix. I currently am using a Wix filter on my Z.

:tup:....I typically like to use OEM filters on my cars if I can, but when there appears to be a big quality issue despite the OEM branding, it's time to look elsewhere. By all indications the Purolator is a quality filter. It hasn't split, clogged , or fallen off in 3K miles, so I guess I like it!

Thank you MS and liquid. I think I want to give this a try . Now, the purolator website says pl14612 for the z34, but I see you have 14610 (scrute also suggested this). Any reason why you are using 10 instead of 12 other than bigger capacity? Thx

I thought I read that the bigger one filters better, but I'm trying to find beta ratios as we speak to tell you if that's true or not.

Mod would this kit work as well? It looks very similar to your set up but uses stainless braided lines.

Oil Cooler Kits - Oil Cooler Kit with Thermostat

That kit would work for sure. If you're going to use stainless lines I would look into some tubing to wrap them with as anything they are touching will be slowly sawed on with every bump you hit. They can also be a little noisy. Otherwise, 10' of hose is plenty and the price is definitely right.

Great thread. I will be doing some HPDE later this year so I definitely need to fit an oil cooler between now and then.

Right now I'm just trying to determine if there's any real reason to choose one of the Setrab kits at Stillen for 2x the cost of putting together one from RPW with a TruCool cooler.

Additionally, with regard to warranty concerns... it seems like it shouldn't be too difficult to remove the cooler and most, if not all evidence of the install, should a problem ever arise under warranty... no?

Realistically you'll just need to remove the sandwich plate, as it's the only direct modification you're making to how things work. Obviously you'll need to do something with the hoses, but maybe you could avoid removing the cooler and/or the bumper in the process.

It was just a sort of random thought. Not too worried about it. :)

Just have to weigh $300 vs. $600...

my kit was around 400, with slightly different fittings and a more expensive cooler. there are many options if you build the kit yourself

Fric.....Those is all the same parts as listed in my build with the exception of substituting the stainless for the socketless hose. Stainless hoses are a PITA to build though, so just a heads up on that.

Setrab and Mocal cooler cores are very nicely made. But they are made across the pond, so you are paying a certain extra cost there..

I've had nothing but good experience with the tru-cools. I've put them on 3 cars now and some of the installs are 6-7 years old with absolutely no issues.
It's just a simple heat exchanger. Pay a little or pay a lot....the results end up being the same.. Remember too, the Stillen does not include a thermostat...

Good deal. I'll probably just end up putting together my own.

After using the Aeroquip hose myself I would highly recommend it to everyone. Talked to a guy at my brother's shop while doing my install and he said that it's all he uses on both his cars and rock crawlers. It can be a little difficult to get it on the fitting, but once it's on you're gravy. I used zip ties just because, but they were definitely not necessary.

Mod, Vipor... thanks to both of you for the DIYs. I will probably order my parts this weekend.

Mod's thread, he gets the cred. :tiphat:

Thanks for the assist.....:tiphat:

For those two hoses, you just have to connect them to the cooler and the sandwhich plate right? or is it like the hose that connects to the right side of the cooler has to be connect to the right side of the sandwhich plate?

Yes. It's just a loop. Matters not which hose goes where..

thanks for your help, but i have another question, I saw there are holes drilled on the bottom of the cooler already, can i just use those holes, or do i have to have a bracket made. I'm asking this because I have never make a bracket before, and if i can just use those holes on the cooler it will make the job a lot easier.

You need to raise it a bit so the undertray and front bumper will mount without interference. If you choose to put the fittings on the top rather than the bottom you could possibly get away without a bracket. Honestly though, it's a very simple thing to make..

http://images46.fotki.com/v1506/phot...MG_1706-vi.jpg

what are the dimensions for that bracket, how thick is it, and what material is it made of? I'm asking this because I can't find any metal plate lying around at my house, so i have to order one.

It looks like he just used some aluminum, not sure how thick. Roughly 11x5" (it's as wide as the cooler)

I'm sure something 1/8" or 1/4" thick would be more than enough.

Yeah...it's 1/8ths aluminum. Cooler width (11") by 4" ish

thank you for your help

So I've been doing more research about the Tru-Cools. Looks like they are manufactured by Long, which is DANA Holding Corporation's automotive thermal cooling division.

I am basically trying to determine if I should spend the $60 on a Tru-Cool or $220 on a Setrab cooler. I can't really find any hard evidence on which one is "better," and can really only make assumptions based on what little I know about both companies.

I know Setrab is highly regarded in the industry, so their brand name carries a bit of weight. They are also produced on a much smaller scale than the DANA/Long built coolers. I think this would be the reason for much of the price discrepancy, but I'm not sure.

I'm willing to pay more for better quality and performance, but my question is... is that really necessary?

I apologize for this nonsense -- just trying to figure out which one I should buy.

what you need is a remote thermostat that by passes the extra cooler under 200F, 200F and above the thermostat activates and routes the oil through the cooler. They are available. Perma-cool.com don't know the price, but will save a lot of heartache down the road.

Has anyone had any problems with the fitting between the elbows and the Tru-Cool oil cooler?

My friend and I did the mod and everything was fine, but after the road test the was some bad leaking around the elbows. We pulled them off and found that the treads were stripped off the elbows. I think that we might have been shipped the wrong size elbows. While he was installing the elbows he complained the they were tight, but he thought it was to prevent leaks. Luckly the oil cooler threading doesn't look damaged.

It looks to me like Modshack used some plumbers tape there to ensure a good seal.

Those are tapered NPT threads. Overtightening them could be a problem with the aluminum fitting. There are steel elbows available too that should be a little sturdier. I did use some sealing tape originally, but had to re-seal one so I used a high temp Loctite sealer on the other...Both work. Do not over tighten after snug and in alignment

Thanks for the info. I think he over torqued them. He was cranking on them pretty hard. I should be getting some moe fittings in today.