DIY: Rear toe bolts install (Pics)

MJB · 01-05-2013, 02:15 PM

[QUOTE=blueranger;2095545]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cheshirecat

couple of suggestions:

You only need to grind the "inside" of the slot (the side that faces toward the center of the car) on both the front and back end of the toe bolt mounts. (four grinding areas total).

Anyone have pics of this detail.... Just to make sure I am clear on exactly the way this should be done

Here is the left side, the circled area is closest to the middle of the car, or towards the diff. So the right side you only need to grind out the left side of the slot, closest to the diff.

blueranger · 01-06-2013, 11:42 AM

[QUOTE=MJB;2095655]

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueranger

Here is the left side, the circled area is closest to the middle of the car, or towards the diff. So the right side you only need to grind out the left side of the slot, closest to the diff.

Thanks for taking the time to explain and respond

Grindkiezer · 03-14-2013, 08:23 PM

[QUOTE=MJB;2095655]

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueranger

Here is the left side, the circled area is closest to the middle of the car, or towards the diff. So the right side you only need to grind out the left side of the slot, closest to the diff.

If you're supposed to grind out the hole towards the middle of the car, shouldn't the template be off center? The one in that pic seems to be centered over the hole instead of favoring the side that needs to be dremeled.

gSwift · 03-17-2013, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grindkiezer

If you're supposed to grind out the hole towards the middle of the car, shouldn't the template be off center? The one in that pic seems to be centered over the hole instead of favoring the side that needs to be dremeled.

I imagine that SPC says to center the template and grind both sides to give you the max amount of adjustment in both directions. But most likely you'll only need to adjust towards the "inside". Someone correct me if i'm wrong

VDC_OFF · 03-18-2013, 08:40 AM

Thats true only Monster truck 370Z's get to grind the outside

batboyvaj · 04-07-2013, 11:23 PM

Do you really have to paint off the area you cut since the subframe is AL? Shouldn't rust....

ZMan8 · 08-13-2013, 11:44 AM

Just got quoted 2 hours @ $100/hour for this at an alignment shop, so I will attempt to it myself. Will be following this DIY

Cbtech · 08-13-2013, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZMan8

Just got quoted 2 hours @ $100/hour for this at an alignment shop, so I will attempt to it myself. Will be following this DIY

Word of advice...wear gloves, long sleves, shoes and socks. if not you will have micro aluminum slivers in your body that will hurt for DAYS...

ZMan8 · 08-13-2013, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cbtech

Word of advice...wear gloves, long sleves, shoes and socks. if not you will have micro aluminum slivers in your body that will hurt for DAYS...

will do and I bought googles and breathing mask for face protection

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

Zipper 104 · 05-23-2015, 09:28 PM

I did my SPC toe bolts and Camber arm lock out bolts today.
If that subframe is aluminum, well, that's the toughest MF aluminum I've ever come across. I went through a Dremel 115 and didn't even get the inboard side of the first hole elongated before it was shot.
I bought two 115s from info on this thread and they are not what you want, at least on my 2013. The subframe is about 2-3 mm of steel. The packaging for my 115s says they are for wood and ceramics. No metal of any sort mentioned at all.
I abandoned the job and the 115s after the one hole and went off to Home depot, 2 blocks from me thankfully. What I picked up was a 2 pack of Dremel Chainsaw sharpening bits. In the event they failed I also picked up a high speed cutter for STEEL as a last resort. The idea was to try the former and if they worked return the latter. The HS cutter was twice the price for one bit, versus a pack of 2 of the chainsaw bits.
Anyway, the chainsaw bits were somewhat fragile but after I got the hang of it worked like a charm. I got all three remaining holes out of them, plus I touched up the first hole. (you can get 4 of them for the price of one HS cutter) When done I returned the HS cutter unopened.
Elongating the toe bolt holes was easily the toughest part of the job.
I removed the entire spring bucket to make room to get in there. Thanks to whomever suggested that.
The trick with the chainsaw bits is to not lean on them too hard, but move along their whole length using medium pressure to avoid wearing them in any one spot. I blew the first one up before I figured this trick out. I never did try the HS cutter but it would probably have been the best bit to use, just expensive. If you could get 4 holes opened up with this one bit it would have been worth it but I was skeptical.
I torqued the camber arm bolts, (both the new lockout and the original outboard bolt) and the bolts on either end of the spring bucket to spec.
I also torqued the wheel lugs to the 80 ft lb spec. Wow. Talk about over tightening them when using the lug nut wrench. I figure I had been tightening to over 100 ft lbs everytime I put wheels back on not using a torque wrench.

Hope this helps. If just one person finds this of value it was worth it.

104

Zipper 104 · 05-23-2015, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by batboyvaj

Do you really have to paint off the area you cut since the subframe is AL? Shouldn't rust....

Right, if it were aluminum; but it's NOT. At least not on my car. It's STEEL and you need a serious cutter to get the holes elongated. Ask me how I know.
I bought Dremels 115s thinking it was aluminum. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.

104

Zbrah · 05-23-2015, 11:25 PM

Thanks for the diy and tips.

MJB · 05-25-2015, 03:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zipper 104

Right, if it were aluminum; but it's NOT. At least not on my car. It's STEEL and you need a serious cutter to get the holes elongated. Ask me how I know.
I bought Dremels 115s thinking it was aluminum. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.

104

I guess Nissan beefed up the subframe for the newer models. I had no issues with my dremel on my 09.

Zipper 104 · 05-25-2015, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJB

I guess Nissan beefed up the subframe for the newer models. I had no issues with my dremel on my 09.

They must have....trust me, it's not aluminum on my car.
I toasted a 115 bit partway through elongating just the inboard side of the first hole and it was taking forever to do it. We had to come up with a different game plan or I'd still be out there now.

104

Zipper 104 · 05-28-2015, 02:09 AM

Alignment scheduled for Friday.
I'll measure for spacers Friday night and get 'em ordered.

104

03-18-2013, 08:40 AM	#20 (permalink)
VDC_OFF A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Houston (Pearland) Age: 44 Posts: 1,205 Drives: 2011 370Z M6 Rep Power: 16	Thats true only Monster truck 370Z's get to grind the outside cheshirecat and Nut_N_Much like this. __________________ DRIFTING JOURNAL \| Follow me on Instagram \| Facebook \| Houston Halos

08-13-2013, 11:44 AM	#22 (permalink)
ZMan8 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 5,844 Drives: 10 370z 40th M6 Rep Power: 658	Just got quoted 2 hours @ $100/hour for this at an alignment shop, so I will attempt to it myself. Will be following this DIY __________________ 2010 370Z 40 Anniv., 6 MT \| Fast Intentions \| Swift Springs \| SPC \| Z1Motorsports \| JWM \| Redline Oils \| 35% Window Tint 2015 Mazda6 \| 370ZChicago: Chicago Area Cars & Coffee

05-23-2015, 09:28 PM	#25 (permalink)
Zipper 104 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Canada's Wet Coast Posts: 480 Drives: '13 PW/Frost/Spt/AT Rep Power: 10	Old thread resurrected I did my SPC toe bolts and Camber arm lock out bolts today. If that subframe is aluminum, well, that's the toughest MF aluminum I've ever come across. I went through a Dremel 115 and didn't even get the inboard side of the first hole elongated before it was shot. I bought two 115s from info on this thread and they are not what you want, at least on my 2013. The subframe is about 2-3 mm of steel. The packaging for my 115s says they are for wood and ceramics. No metal of any sort mentioned at all. I abandoned the job and the 115s after the one hole and went off to Home depot, 2 blocks from me thankfully. What I picked up was a 2 pack of Dremel Chainsaw sharpening bits. In the event they failed I also picked up a high speed cutter for STEEL as a last resort. The idea was to try the former and if they worked return the latter. The HS cutter was twice the price for one bit, versus a pack of 2 of the chainsaw bits. Anyway, the chainsaw bits were somewhat fragile but after I got the hang of it worked like a charm. I got all three remaining holes out of them, plus I touched up the first hole. (you can get 4 of them for the price of one HS cutter) When done I returned the HS cutter unopened. Elongating the toe bolt holes was easily the toughest part of the job. I removed the entire spring bucket to make room to get in there. Thanks to whomever suggested that. The trick with the chainsaw bits is to not lean on them too hard, but move along their whole length using medium pressure to avoid wearing them in any one spot. I blew the first one up before I figured this trick out. I never did try the HS cutter but it would probably have been the best bit to use, just expensive. If you could get 4 holes opened up with this one bit it would have been worth it but I was skeptical. I torqued the camber arm bolts, (both the new lockout and the original outboard bolt) and the bolts on either end of the spring bucket to spec. I also torqued the wheel lugs to the 80 ft lb spec. Wow. Talk about over tightening them when using the lug nut wrench. I figure I had been tightening to over 100 ft lbs everytime I put wheels back on not using a torque wrench. Hope this helps. If just one person finds this of value it was worth it. 104 Zbrah, Memphis370Z, joker77 and 1 others like this.

05-23-2015, 11:25 PM	#27 (permalink)
Zbrah A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2013 Location: The370Z.com Posts: 4,956 Drives: 370Z Rep Power: 5451	Thanks for the diy and tips. __________________

05-28-2015, 02:09 AM	#30 (permalink)
Zipper 104 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Canada's Wet Coast Posts: 480 Drives: '13 PW/Frost/Spt/AT Rep Power: 10	Friday Alignment scheduled for Friday. I'll measure for spacers Friday night and get 'em ordered. 104

04-07-2013, 11:23 PM	#21 (permalink)
batboyvaj Base Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: mn Posts: 111 Drives: 2011 370z Rep Power: 13	Do you really have to paint off the area you cut since the subframe is AL? Shouldn't rust....

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