DIY: Rear toe bolts install (Pics)

anhdat503

anyone know how much it take to a shop to do it SPC Front and Rear Camber Arms

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djtodd

Fronts took me about 30 minutes each. Very easy.
Rears a little more, but I was taking my time being very anal with the grinding/deburring.

Of course a shop would probably charge quite a bit more (like the 7!! hour labor estimate the dealership gave me for changing clutch/flywheel)

Read T

I'd make sure to apply some type of coating to prevent the newly dremel-ed metal from rusting.

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2011 Nissan 370z Black Cherry Sport Pkg - Daily Driver, , 1960 Morgan +4 fun car, 1986 BMW 325ES, 1998 M3 and 1996 Spec Miata - Race Cars
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Z370Z011

jeeeeeezzzz im so confused now
sorry for such a newbie question, but why do you have to grind in the first place? and whats the whole toe thing for?? what if you set one side further than the other.. or? agh so confusion

anyone care to enlighten me? lol

VDC_OFF

Thats true only Monster truck 370Z's get to grind the outside

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batboyvaj

Do you really have to paint off the area you cut since the subframe is AL? Shouldn't rust....

Zipper 104

Right, if it were aluminum; but it's NOT. At least not on my car. It's STEEL and you need a serious cutter to get the holes elongated. Ask me how I know.
I bought Dremels 115s thinking it was aluminum. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.

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MJB

I guess Nissan beefed up the subframe for the newer models. I had no issues with my dremel on my 09.

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Zipper 104

They must have....trust me, it's not aluminum on my car.
I toasted a 115 bit partway through elongating just the inboard side of the first hole and it was taking forever to do it. We had to come up with a different game plan or I'd still be out there now.

104

Zipper 104

Alignment scheduled for Friday.
I'll measure for spacers Friday night and get 'em ordered.

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ZMan8

Just got quoted 2 hours @ $100/hour for this at an alignment shop, so I will attempt to it myself. Will be following this DIY

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2015 Mazda6 | 370ZChicago: Chicago Area Cars & Coffee

Cbtech

Word of advice...wear gloves, long sleves, shoes and socks. if not you will have micro aluminum slivers in your body that will hurt for DAYS...

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ZMan8

will do and I bought googles and breathing mask for face protection

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

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2010 370Z 40 Anniv., 6 MT | Fast Intentions | Swift Springs | SPC | Z1Motorsports | JWM | Redline Oils | 35% Window Tint
2015 Mazda6 | 370ZChicago: Chicago Area Cars & Coffee

Zipper 104

I did my SPC toe bolts and Camber arm lock out bolts today.
If that subframe is aluminum, well, that's the toughest MF aluminum I've ever come across. I went through a Dremel 115 and didn't even get the inboard side of the first hole elongated before it was shot.
I bought two 115s from info on this thread and they are not what you want, at least on my 2013. The subframe is about 2-3 mm of steel. The packaging for my 115s says they are for wood and ceramics. No metal of any sort mentioned at all.
I abandoned the job and the 115s after the one hole and went off to Home depot, 2 blocks from me thankfully. What I picked up was a 2 pack of Dremel Chainsaw sharpening bits. In the event they failed I also picked up a high speed cutter for STEEL as a last resort. The idea was to try the former and if they worked return the latter. The HS cutter was twice the price for one bit, versus a pack of 2 of the chainsaw bits.
Anyway, the chainsaw bits were somewhat fragile but after I got the hang of it worked like a charm. I got all three remaining holes out of them, plus I touched up the first hole. (you can get 4 of them for the price of one HS cutter) When done I returned the HS cutter unopened.
Elongating the toe bolt holes was easily the toughest part of the job.
I removed the entire spring bucket to make room to get in there. Thanks to whomever suggested that.
The trick with the chainsaw bits is to not lean on them too hard, but move along their whole length using medium pressure to avoid wearing them in any one spot. I blew the first one up before I figured this trick out. I never did try the HS cutter but it would probably have been the best bit to use, just expensive. If you could get 4 holes opened up with this one bit it would have been worth it but I was skeptical.
I torqued the camber arm bolts, (both the new lockout and the original outboard bolt) and the bolts on either end of the spring bucket to spec.
I also torqued the wheel lugs to the 80 ft lb spec. Wow. Talk about over tightening them when using the lug nut wrench. I figure I had been tightening to over 100 ft lbs everytime I put wheels back on not using a torque wrench.


Hope this helps. If just one person finds this of value it was worth it.

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Zbrah

Thanks for the diy and tips.

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