DIY Noise Reduction

B&W_Evader · 10-10-2011, 09:33 AM

Yeah, and if someone coughs 3 feet away it skyrockets. Had to reset it every time I heard a rock bounce off the bottom of the car since I figured it captured it as the peak reading. Still would be nice to get it down a little more. Was looking at getting under the 3 furthest back panels in the back for the next step but mainly focusing on the strut towers.

Also, put the sound meter by the door panels and wasn't as high as the back still. Driver's side was definitely louder. Anyone know why that might be or do you think the road was just rougher on that side?

'10Anamoly · 10-10-2011, 11:17 AM

So you bought the 1" thick, 0.75 NRC Skinned foam? How many feet long was the piece that had enough to do the trunk? I see that it is 54" wide by how ever many feet you buy. Was this the type without adhesive?

WhiskeyHotel · 10-10-2011, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by '10Anamoly

So you bought the 1" thick, 0.75 NRC Skinned foam? How many feet long was the piece that had enough to do the trunk? I see that it is 54" wide by how ever many feet you buy. Was this the type without adhesive?

Yea, I am wondering the same thing. If it had the adhesive, maybe I could stick it on the back or on top of the thin bottom mat.

B&W_Evader · 10-10-2011, 06:01 PM

No adhesive on mine.

I bought 6ft of 5692T13 but you can see how much is left over. Should be plenty to get a couple more dBs out of it. Adhesive might be nice but I have no idea how aggressive it is and whether it would stay bonded to anything.

koffeegy · 10-10-2011, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiskeyHotel

Yea, I am wondering the same thing. If it had the adhesive, maybe I could stick it on the back or on top of the thin bottom mat.

The adhesive is there so you can get a good fit to the metal. The material actually helps reduce the vibration in the metal from the travel, which make the road noise. Just placing the material in the trunk would possibly help, but you would see a much bigger difference if it was glued down to the metal. I have been into car stereo's since high school, so I have seen a thing or two. Hope this helped.

REP please and thank you,

Guard Dad · 10-10-2011, 12:04 PM

My experience suggests that doing the the ENTIRE hatch area (I did the wheel wells but not the back side of the rear fenders) and the doors (the area behind the trim panels-also a great time to upgrade the door speakers) is the best first step. A 38 square foot box of Dynamat Extreme was just enough to do the job.

When that's done you'll be able to decide if you want more or if you are good-to-go.

10-10-2011, 11:17 AM	#2 (permalink)
'10Anamoly Track Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: GA Posts: 882 Drives: 2010 370Z BS M6 Rep Power: 17	So you bought the 1" thick, 0.75 NRC Skinned foam? How many feet long was the piece that had enough to do the trunk? I see that it is 54" wide by how ever many feet you buy. Was this the type without adhesive? __________________ 2013 Ford Mustang GT 374rwhp, 360rwtq SAE / GT500 Axle-Backs / Brembo Pack / Track Pack / Recaros / 6spd Last edited by '10Anamoly; 10-10-2011 at 11:20 AM.

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10-10-2011, 09:33 AM	#1 (permalink)
B&W_Evader Track Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: CA Posts: 972 Drives: slower than before Rep Power: 388	Yeah, and if someone coughs 3 feet away it skyrockets. Had to reset it every time I heard a rock bounce off the bottom of the car since I figured it captured it as the peak reading. Still would be nice to get it down a little more. Was looking at getting under the 3 furthest back panels in the back for the next step but mainly focusing on the strut towers. Also, put the sound meter by the door panels and wasn't as high as the back still. Driver's side was definitely louder. Anyone know why that might be or do you think the road was just rougher on that side?

10-10-2011, 06:01 PM	#4 (permalink)
B&W_Evader Track Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: CA Posts: 972 Drives: slower than before Rep Power: 388	No adhesive on mine. I bought 6ft of 5692T13 but you can see how much is left over. Should be plenty to get a couple more dBs out of it. Adhesive might be nice but I have no idea how aggressive it is and whether it would stay bonded to anything.

10-10-2011, 12:04 PM	#6 (permalink)
Guard Dad Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: South Orange County, CA Posts: 422 Drives: 2010 370Z Silver A7 Rep Power: 16	My experience suggests that doing the the ENTIRE hatch area (I did the wheel wells but not the back side of the rear fenders) and the doors (the area behind the trim panels-also a great time to upgrade the door speakers) is the best first step. A 38 square foot box of Dynamat Extreme was just enough to do the job. When that's done you'll be able to decide if you want more or if you are good-to-go.