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DIY Noise Reduction

Seems interesting. This should help although technically you need some sound deadening around the wheel wells in the back too to really help.

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Old 10-04-2011, 03:43 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Seems interesting. This should help although technically you need some sound deadening around the wheel wells in the back too to really help.
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Old 10-04-2011, 04:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by '10Anamoly View Post
Seems interesting. This should help although technically you need some sound deadening around the wheel wells in the back too to really help.
Right you are! In this context the "hatch area" includes the rear wheel wells, the hatch area floor, the rear bulkhead, the structural reinforcement below the large aluminum cross-beam and the area immediately behind the seats. Interestingly enough, the hatch area doesn't actually include the hatch itself.
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Old 10-05-2011, 04:18 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Is it difficult to remove the door panels to install the Dynamat? How about for the rear wheel wells? Do I have to remove any panels?
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Old 10-05-2011, 06:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Is it difficult to remove the door panels to install the Dynamat? How about for the rear wheel wells? Do I have to remove any panels?
Not hard but a little advance knowledge can save you a lot of heartache.

Do a search on this topic for tips on removing the hatch area trims. The guys doing audio upgrades are always pulling trims, you should check out the audio forum. Spend a little time trolling that forum, you'll learn a lot.

Use plastic trim removal tools (Harbor Freight, about $8) to minimize/prevent damage to the interior.

One member reported a significant improvement and he just did the area exposed after removing the spare tire and styrofoam spacers on each side of the spare. He didn't remove any panels. Check my posts to the "Cabin Noise" thread for what I did, sorry, you'll have to start at the very beginning.

Last edited by Guard Dad; 10-05-2011 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 10-05-2011, 07:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks, I'll look into it.
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Old 10-07-2011, 02:36 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Just got done doing the road test.
Speed was 65 mph
Data points w & w/o were done in 2 direction on the same stretch of hwy. Attempted to take readings in approximately the same spot to keep it controlled. 2 positions on meter, next to my right ear and approximately 4" off the center of the rear deck. Car was 6th gear, cruise control.

With---Without
74.9---76.8---Head
78.6---80.9---Head
76.8---77.9---Deck
79.0---83.0---Deck

I'll take it.

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Old 10-07-2011, 09:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by B&W_Evader View Post
Just got done doing the road test.
Speed was 65 mph
Data points w & w/o were done in 2 direction on the same stretch of hwy. Attempted to take readings in approximately the same spot to keep it controlled. 2 positions on meter, next to my right ear and approximately 4" off the center of the rear deck. Car was 6th gear, cruise control.

With---Without
74.9---76.8---Head
78.6---80.9---Head
76.8---77.9---Deck
79.0---83.0---Deck

I'll take it.
Those are substantial drops. The db scale is logarithmic, each 3 db drop is roughly a 50% reduction in sound levels. My reading is 67-68 dba (hit a bump and it goes higher) after all my work, however this can't be directly compared to yours because my meter is an iphone app not a calibrated meter. But for the sake of reference I get about a 66-67 db reading in the house (crickets outside an open window really show up on the dba scale) with the TV off yet there is no way that the car seems as quiet as the house.

Last edited by Guard Dad; 10-07-2011 at 09:43 PM.
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