DIY: Oil Pressure Gauge

Chiefish · 01-25-2016, 08:44 PM

Spearfish,
teflon tape has no business on straight threads, (BSP). I've seen it where people have put it on drain plugs, and it has gotten into the oil system. it is possible for some of the tape to make it into the fittings, and gum them up, rendering the readings innacurate.

Mozen · 01-26-2016, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chiefish

Spearfish,
teflon tape has no business on straight threads, (BSP). I've seen it where people have put it on drain plugs, and it has gotten into the oil system. it is possible for some of the tape to make it into the fittings, and gum them up, rendering the readings innacurate.

It's not that it had no business....because that's not true. When used correctly it's completely fine. Trick is to not put too much on and to ensure you don't let any roll over the edge of the fitting so that it would be in the oil stream. I use it sparingly and keep it neat and it's no issue. Also important to clean up any left on threads when taking parts apart that have it.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

ANMVQ · 03-29-2016, 06:44 AM

So just grabbed a pressure gauge myself today, Learing of another guys motor eating it after the rear timing cover gaskets failed.

Having warranty till 118k and 3 more years , the few hundred was worth it.

Wisper quiet and lighting fast Japanese Stepper Motor Movement
Analog and digital display
Pointer trailing LED's
Fully programmable Warning feature
Daisy chain
Premium waterproof sender
Includes wire harness (gauge to sender -plug and play)
2 color choices
includes mounting cup
includes Visor

Prosport JDM (Japanese dual series electrical Oil Pressure gauge

TBatt · 03-29-2016, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mozen

It's not that it had no business....because that's not true. When used correctly it's completely fine. Trick is to not put too much on and to ensure you don't let any roll over the edge of the fitting so that it would be in the oil stream. I use it sparingly and keep it neat and it's no issue. Also important to clean up any left on threads when taking parts apart that have it.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I agree with Mozen. The trick is to have the tape only on the threads and not at the end of the fitting. I've been doing this for as many years as I can remember having teflon tape. A sloppy taping job could cause problems.

TBatt · 03-30-2016, 12:40 PM

I wish I had read this before ordering my oil pressure gauge. I had already purchased a 1-100 psi so I had to return it for a 0-150. No big deal as I ordered it from Jegs and they have a great return policy.

barncobob · 03-30-2016, 05:18 PM

where do U mount this gauge w/o disturbing original dash..

40 to 332 · 06-10-2016, 10:47 AM

For those interested in having the dimming feature on an AEM or Defi Racer oil pressure gauge work, read on. Each of these gauges has a wire as part of the power harness that's supplied with the gauge that when connected results in the gauge dimming when the headlights are turned on. It's the grey wire in the AEM harness and the white wire in the Defi harness. In order to get this feature to work on my 2013 Z, I tapped into the red wire running from Terminal #9 of the M81 connector that connects into the audio unit. The wire is labelled "ILL(+)" in the FSM. You can find the details on p. PG-91 of the FSM for the 2013 model year. (Presumably, the FSMs for other model years will show the same type of connector and terminal, but they may be numbered differently (IDK) … anyway, look for the ILL(+) terminal on the audio connector). I ended up cutting the red wire, carefully trimming back the insulation on both ends, and then splicing in the wire from the gauge using a 22-18 AWG solder splice. Be advised that it's a bit of a labor-of-love since you have to remove a number of trim pieces in order to access the connector at the back of the audio unit … as well as run the gauge wire from the fuse box located in the driver foot well up and around the pedals and feed it to the back of the audio unit. Anyway for those interested, it works.

Girald · 12-16-2018, 01:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

Nice detailed writeup.

Any concern about something hitting the sensor/adapter assembly and breaking it off? Seems as though it would be somewhat more prone to damage now, even hash bumps could add a large load to the fittings.

Ive been on the track a full season after installing my fuel pressure gauge and plumbing it in... hasnt budged or had issues.

Girald · 12-16-2018, 01:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by barncobob

where do U mount this gauge w/o disturbing original dash..

A-Pillar...

Or just swap gauges

Girald · 12-16-2018, 02:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mozen

It's not that it had no business....because that's not true. When used correctly it's completely fine. Trick is to not put too much on and to ensure you don't let any roll over the edge of the fitting so that it would be in the oil stream. I use it sparingly and keep it neat and it's no issue. Also important to clean up any left on threads when taking parts apart that have it.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Yes and no

If its straight threaded, it should come with a grommet to ensure the seal, if not a smear of red rtv at the base... teflon can get ugly if a piece spits up into the pressure sender or get to travel around the system. if a fine strip is added at the base of the adapter thread, that should never happen, but if it covers all threads, theres a good chance of chewed up teflon floating aorund in in the system

Girald · 12-16-2018, 02:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cell

I would avoid cutting the grommet to lead the wire into the cabin. Seriously avoid it like the plague unless you want water leaking into the cabin.

That section is well covered and wont get water.... your air conditioner intake is right next to it.

If picky about it though, you can always hot glue the grommet after applying.

Girald · 12-16-2018, 02:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aszyd

Here is my final setup. I royally screwed myself attempting to integrate the aftermarket sensors with the oil pan. So for this go around, I opted for fittings that would attach to the oil cooler. I ordered them from Summit for $38.

Yeah you need to reconsider that...

For oil cooler Ideal is to get an oil pan spacer, tap it and get readings from there... other option: you can run an -8an with 1/8npt take off (add a 1/8npt male to 1/8"npt female to add space) in line with sandwich plate for an oil cooler setup, but aluminum tape the fitting to isolate it from airflow.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Russell-P...xoCuGwQAvD_BwE

For oil pressure, Ideally, you would want to Tee it off from the block , so that you are are getting the exact same reading that the OEM is sending to the motor.

Tedmeister · 08-01-2021, 09:56 AM

I would recommend against installing the aftermarket sensor using a T at the factory pressure sensor location. I used the brass T from Z1 and an Autometer pressure sensor, and I not only had the brass T fail, it also cracked the port.
So now I have to replace the upper oil pan.

JARblue · 08-01-2021, 03:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tedmeister

I used the brass T from Z1 and an Autometer pressure sensor, and I not only had the brass T fail, it also cracked the port.

Did I read in your other thread that you had an impact with something?

The brass T was not a good choice to begin. But the port shouldn't have cracked on it's own just from track abuse. Plenty of guys are running oil pressure sensor tee'd off the factory location with no issues for years.

redondoaveb · 08-01-2021, 04:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tedmeister

I would recommend against installing the aftermarket sensor using a T at the factory pressure sensor location. I used the brass T from Z1 and an Autometer pressure sensor, and I not only had the brass T fail, it also cracked the port.
So now I have to replace the upper oil pan.

Why not just get a sandwich plate that's threaded for a 1/8" npt fitting?

03-30-2016, 12:40 PM	#95 (permalink)
TBatt Premium Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Huntsville, AL Posts: 832 Drives: 2019 GT-R Rep Power: 20168	I wish I had read this before ordering my oil pressure gauge. I had already purchased a 1-100 psi so I had to return it for a 0-150. No big deal as I ordered it from Jegs and they have a great return policy. __________________ RJM pedal, Hotchkis Sway Bars, FI TDX, FOG Light, Z1 Slotted Drilled rotors, Stillen SC, Quaife ATB, Z1 Oil cooler, AEM Gauge Set, Galeforce gauge mount, Avant Garde M590 Hypersilver w/RE-11, TopgunZ A2A kit., ECUtek tuned by Seb: ROLL TIDE!

08-01-2021, 09:56 AM	#103 (permalink)
Tedmeister Base Member Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Florida Posts: 68 Drives: 12 M6 Rep Power: 6776	I would recommend against installing the aftermarket sensor using a T at the factory pressure sensor location. I used the brass T from Z1 and an Autometer pressure sensor, and I not only had the brass T fail, it also cracked the port. So now I have to replace the upper oil pan. Spartan 1771 likes this.

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01-25-2016, 08:44 PM	#91 (permalink)
Chiefish Base Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Connecticut Posts: 10 Drives: 2013 370Z Nismo Magm Rep Power: 10	Spearfish, teflon tape has no business on straight threads, (BSP). I've seen it where people have put it on drain plugs, and it has gotten into the oil system. it is possible for some of the tape to make it into the fittings, and gum them up, rendering the readings innacurate.

03-30-2016, 05:18 PM	#96 (permalink)
barncobob A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2015 Location: hangtown, CA Posts: 1,164 Drives: 16 370Z auto Rep Power: 589	where do U mount this gauge w/o disturbing original dash..

06-10-2016, 10:47 AM	#97 (permalink)
40 to 332 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Kimberley, BC, CANADA Posts: 439 Drives: 13 370Z BS M6 Sport Rep Power: 138	For those interested in having the dimming feature on an AEM or Defi Racer oil pressure gauge work, read on. Each of these gauges has a wire as part of the power harness that's supplied with the gauge that when connected results in the gauge dimming when the headlights are turned on. It's the grey wire in the AEM harness and the white wire in the Defi harness. In order to get this feature to work on my 2013 Z, I tapped into the red wire running from Terminal #9 of the M81 connector that connects into the audio unit. The wire is labelled "ILL(+)" in the FSM. You can find the details on p. PG-91 of the FSM for the 2013 model year. (Presumably, the FSMs for other model years will show the same type of connector and terminal, but they may be numbered differently (IDK) … anyway, look for the ILL(+) terminal on the audio connector). I ended up cutting the red wire, carefully trimming back the insulation on both ends, and then splicing in the wire from the gauge using a 22-18 AWG solder splice. Be advised that it's a bit of a labor-of-love since you have to remove a number of trim pieces in order to access the connector at the back of the audio unit … as well as run the gauge wire from the fuse box located in the driver foot well up and around the pedals and feed it to the back of the audio unit. Anyway for those interested, it works.