|
Quote:
The PG had about 50 miles on Swift springs, still settling, fronts are at 26.75" from ground to top of fender with a 1.25" gap from top of tire to fender. They still need to settle. But here they are with 20mm & 25 mm spacers. Sacramento Driven Authority 3rd Anniv BBQ/Meet - MY350Z.COM Forums |
will 20mm upfront and 25mm out back be ok on sport 19' rims?
|
Yup, they will. That's also a popular combination.
|
how bout with swift spec-r springs?
|
^Yup, have them on mine for over a year now. Check the link on previous post, better yet go to the Swift reviewed thread for more photos.
|
Update: After almost two years of driving with these spacers, I have had zero issues with them on either the sport rims or my winter rims. No freezing to the hub or wheel, no cracking or rounding at all. Top quality product and super easy to do. Big thumbs up to H&R!
|
What, no thumbs up to the free living space under my deck? :icon17:
|
smells like horses under there....
|
Quote:
Good to know your spacers are holding up. :tup: |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Ya. I think i'd rather 'pony' up the change to go to the closest motel instead... lol
|
giddy up!
|
Excellent write-up, rep point :tiphat:http://www.qhd95598.com.cn/us.jpg
|
Yep, after 1.5 years on both Z's, no issues what so ever. H&R FTW!
|
+rep for the diy
I ran into two problems: 1. The toe arm was in the way to reach the bottom 19mm caliper bolt, but that was an easy solution. By using the jack, I got the arm to lift up, out of the way for the socket to fit. https://photos-1.dropbox.com/i/l/fjF...8_155138.jpg#1 2. I was tightening the wheel locks before using the torque wrench and both are effed! One is stripped and spinning freely and the other, the top of the nut just twisted off. WTF?! Nothing happened to the regular lugs. Nissan has some dinky wheel locks. :shakes head: |
whoa! check to make sure you have the right wheel locks!! A lot of people got the wrong ones from the dealer! You need ones with the proper washer type end!
Like these: http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...front-view.jpg |
Oh my. Looks like they gave me the wrong ones. What do I do now? Take it to the dealer and complain? What information do I bring forth?
|
They should know better! Take them back and get them replaced..... then rep me again! lol
|
On the topic of adding spacers, someone told me adding spacers can lead to wheel bearing failure. Can anyone confirm or deny if this is accurate?
|
Improperly designed or manufactured spacers may be an issue, but I have have had zero issues with the H&R spacers.
|
Quote:
|
Forged Performance and Josh@Stillen are two sources that I've had personal dealings with that carry H&R, and I can vouch for their customer service. FBNissan seems to be well-liked too. Not to exclude other sponsor vendors, but those three are at the top of my head right now.
|
^ what he said!...
If you followed the DIY from the beginning you might have read where I reference sourcing these from Josh. Plus their website blog has the full DIY with pictures that I took during front and rear installs. |
Yep, all should just avoid the issues involved with some of the other inferior spacers out there and just fork over the extra $ for H&R spacers. You get what you pay for, so just go with the best.
No issues and I have about 10k miles on them. Josh / Stillen is da man for spacers. |
It isn't a big deal to do but can the studs be removed without the rotor/caliper being pulled?
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
Great write up, install went smooth as can be. Def somewhat time consuming but I personally feel better having the DRS spacers vs the bolt on. +1 rep and also a shout out to Z1 for great prices and a great product. Tested the 15/20 mm spacers today at 110mph and not an ounce of vibration what so ever. |
hey guys, couple of questions
i took the calliperss off my saab and it required special hex wrenches, Im guessing this isn't the case with nissan? and finally, when I do the rear end, in order to rotate the hub, will i need both wheels off the ground? haven't done any work on a rwd before. much appreciated! |
no hex required. tools required listed at the first post.
you can do it with one wheel on the ground in neutral with an open diff (base) but not with the sport model (I think)... but jackstands are better..... |
^^ appreciated! yes I do have the viscous diff, so this saves me a bit of time this knowledge =) thanks!
|
Quote:
|
Ahh, this is good to know for when I do mine! Thanks Chris!
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Ditto on the VSLD however make sure you have the parking brake disengaged and the car in neutral... I was attempting to remove rotor with the parking brake still on... :rolleyes:
The other thing is that since you are taking the car out of gear and removing the brake you better block the front wheels or jack the entire car at once to avoid rolling. |
:iagree: Otherwise, this will happen! BWAHAHHAHAHA
|
:roflpuke2::roflpuke2::roflpuke2::roflpuke2:
|
Thanks for the right up
|
Thanks, did my rears tonight and it was easy with your thread.
I didn't need an impact wrench for the rears but I'm sure I'll need one for the fronts which I'll do tomorrow morning. I went with Z1 motorsports hub centric spacers. -Ray |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:20 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2