You are most welcome!

Impact wrench isn't necessary on either end but it does make it a lot quicker. I replaced a set of front studs in the middle of an air field with just hand tools after I had one fail, and it was raining and only 50 degrees :) Definitely prefer a warm garage though.

Yea, I just learned about that yesterday. My impact wrench was not up to the job so I had to get creative without damaging the studs.

I used lug nuts and a breakbar to hold the hub steady so I could tighten down the new stud. All in all, pretty easy without an impact wrench as long as I sprayed some lubricant on the base of the new stud. I think I did the fronts without impact wrench in about 1 hour and a half or less.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...2-31122644.jpg

-Ray

Make sure you re-tourque those studs a few times in the next month. I don't like lubricating the studs themselves..... too much risk of them working loose.

Yea, definitely, I check them often because it is a new install...lubricant shouldn't affect it much...after all it is torqued on constantly so it wouldn't just slide out. If my lugs fall out, then I can see more of a chance the stud would back out, but since I check torque, that won't be a problem.

Thanks for the tip still

-Ray

SiRay, what did you end up going with, size-wise? I'm sure you said, but I'm too lazy to search! :)

:pics:

Thanks for posting this pic!
I was trying to explain how to do this without an impact wrench, but your picture is much more effective than my written explanation :tup:

+1 on NOT lubing the studs.

Repped.

You might consider putting a pipe fitting over the studs where the breaker bar touches them because you don't want to damage the threads. Great pic by the way! And nice garage flooring also.

LOL, look at the first post pictures.... I have the same floor!

I went with 20mm front/rear...stock suspension.

I was in a pinch because my little impact wrench couldn't do it...I guess I'm not as creative as I thought since others seem to have accomplished this without impact also :hello:

How did you other guys hold the hub while doing the fronts. The rears I just put it into gear and it held fine...not sure if this is bad...but I got it done without putting too much force on the studs.

Also for the front studs..I made sure my breaker bar did not touch any of the threads of the new studs. The breaker bar rested only on the lug nuts and the stock hub ring. I was very careful about this as I did not want threads to be damaged.

Regarding the garage flooring...I like the flooring but it was done wrong by the guy I hired...I don't think he put a layer to protect the floor so I have brown spots burnt in from hot tires :shakes head: It is not suppose to change colors from hot tires.

-Ray

That's what I thought when I first saw the picture. It's a pretty nifty idea if you don't have (or want to use) an impact wrench, but I'd definitely want to protect the threads.

Have you posted up pics of your before/after results anywhere? :pics:

put mine today, H&R 15mm front and 20 rear:icon17:

looks good! side pics!

Looks good! Now put the Swift Springs on!!!

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...ped-swifts.jpg

^ that looks really good. I wanna do this but I'm going to be buying a front lip and I know I'm going to crack that mofo if my car is any lower.

/\ This! :tup:

Went to Nissan to price this change up. $600+ and 5.5 hours. It claims the whole hub assembly has to "be disassembled" in order to remove and replace studs. I laughed. Spoke to him, explained what I saw and read in this thread, then I showed him all the pictures. He was surprised and agreed to put the car up on the lift and give it a try by following these instructions.

Ah, the ole "We'll take a whack at it!" - I'd be hesitant to let these guys put my son's bicycle up on the lift. :bowrofl:

All kidding aside, I did the job without a lift in less than 5 hours and that included ample drink breaks (if you show him this, make sure he knows the difference between breaks and brakes). :stirthepot:

What kinda times this realistically take?! Based on pics and having a lift and proper equipment I'd of guessed less then two hours!!

At dealer now, they looking at it, hope they don't pull some BS.

Realistically, since I've done it before and know what to do, if I had a lift, I could get all 4 done in less than 2 hours without alcohol and kids around.

Agree with LinPark on this. Simple mod with hand tools and can be done faster with a lift for sure. But still easily done in 2 hours. :tiphat:

Glad your mechanic has the DIY to walk him thru it though... shouldn't be an issue once they see how simple it is. I was scared sh!tless about doing it myself at first too, now I do it over a beer (literally one beer's worth of conversation) and I'm done.

Well after sitting at dealer for an hour they came out an told me they couldn't do it today. Said the only lift they could fit my car on was occupied and would be occupied till Monday. Don't kno I this was true or not. So, I started thinking just do it yourself! I already had plans to install y Stillen intake (which I did) figured why not try and dedicate the day to the car. Went to Home Depot and Lowes to pick up some washers and a open ended lug, 12 x 1.50 and neither had the lug/nut needed! Stupid question but, where can I find one? And do I NEED a torque gun to seat the studs or can it be done with ratchet? Might give it a go Sunday. Hell, I'm sure it's recommended but I'm only doing 10mm, do I even NEED the extended studs?

Buy the nuts at an autoparts store, AutoZone, PepBoys, Advanced, etc. It can be done with a ratchet, but it will take a lot longer. You'll need one 18" long or so to make it easier as you need about 100-120 ft/lbs minimum torque to get things seated properly. With a 5mm spacer you'd be fine with the stock lugs, but at 10mm I would be a little concerned.

I agree on changing the studs to be safe. But seriously, once you've done this mod yourself you will wonder why you hesitated... really quite simple and fast. Save the cash and install them yourself!

I just recently installed 15mm on the front and 20mm on the rear. The front is perfect, but the rear.... Might be sticking out too far for my taste. Anyone else think so too?

Im thinking about swapping out the rears for 15mm also.

I just dont like seeing the tires poke out from the rear view mirror.

I had 20mm on the rear and liked them. Definitely the most I would go, though.

Simple solution is to get Swift Spec R springs to complement those spacers!
Seriously though, the 20mm is perfect IMHO

How annoying! After spending a good 2 hours on just one side (removed entire emergency brake assembly, PITA to reinstall@!!).... I realized after installing one spacer that.... I could have gone even bigger than a 10mm in which case I could have bought the spacers with extended studs built in.... and saved a whole lotta time! Dont even have it in me to do the other wheel... might wait till Friday.

lol! 2 hours! I have done all four corners in less time than that! Were the rotors seized on?, bolts on the calipers stuck? What happened?

2 hrs max.

I just got my rear spacers on today, using the wheee! DIY here was a HUGE help!
It took me about an hour to do the right rear (1st timer), but only 1/2 hour doing the left rear. Having a impact wrench is key!

I went the unconventional route by going 15mm in the back and 5mm in the front.

http://www.the370z.com/members/icorm...-5mm-front.jpg

stock height and stock 245's/275's on sports rays

Is that stock ride height and tire width? Looks good man! :tup:

it is, stock height and stock 245's/275's... original tires. I just hit 8000 miles the other day.

Looks great! Glad the write up helped! :tiphat:

I just ordered a set of four H&R's 20mm for front and rear from a Canadian distributor. Not cheap. I'm not going to do a whole lot of expensive modding. Funny thing is, I don't even have the car yet hahaha and I'm ordering goodies.

Got mine for a good deal thru Josh at Stillen online here....

I could afford ALOT more goodies if I didn't have to pay for the car! :bowrofl:

Famous last words! :rofl2: