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-   -   DIY: ** Rear 20mm stud replacement spacers (http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-do-yourself/17455-diy-rear-20mm-stud-replacement-spacers.html)

NuffZed 06-21-2012 03:14 AM

This write up is spot on but there are some small variations with a 2012. Nothing that will affect how you do this however. I read through this DIY guide a few times to understand what I was getting into. Luckily for me I have the great fortune to live in the same city as Wheee! who offered to help me with this. :happydance:

We did 20mm rear and 15mm front in his garage last night on my roadster. By we I mean he did it and I assisted breathing a huge sigh of relief I could watch how its done properly. Could I do it now myself? Yes. But it was nice to watch someone with the know-how to go through it. :tup: A little over 2 hours to do the whole thing and the car looks great. Pics to follow in an album.

Thanks Wheee!

wheee! 06-21-2012 07:16 AM

My pleasure!
The differences I noticed were in the design of the dust shield on the front rotor and I believe the front brake line is routed a little different around the caliper than on my 2010.
Nothing to cause issue with the installation, but subtle changes in design.
Also installed his Gen II CAI from Stillen. Stillen CBE and HFC's to go!

LinPark 06-22-2012 09:20 AM

You guys both need to move to Florida so all 3 of us can work on my car. :)

wheee! 06-22-2012 03:48 PM

Just come back to Alberta but bring your car this time!!

bonfire 07-17-2012 10:04 PM

Just finished the 20mm on the rear. I didn't need to take the parking break assembly off either. I just angled the studs and slowly turned the hub until I could just slide the stud in place. Hopefully I seated them well enough. I'm pretty sure I got them all flush but I sometimes don't trust myself.

I noticed that the driver side was really dirty/greasy and the passenger side was not. Anyone know if I should be worried about the bearings or something of that nature??

I'll have to finish the 15mm front after work tomorrow. I will be sporting the fat rear end on the road tomorrow :)-

Wheee, thanks for the write up. It was a huge help.... also gave me a reason to buy an impact wrench, I would have been cussing myself had I not.

happytheman 07-17-2012 10:06 PM

Can't imagine doing this job without an impact wrench. :tup:

wheee! 07-18-2012 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bonfire (Post 1825668)
Just finished the 20mm on the rear. I didn't need to take the parking break assembly off either. I just angled the studs and slowly turned the hub until I could just slide the stud in place. Hopefully I seated them well enough. I'm pretty sure I got them all flush but I sometimes don't trust myself.

I have found that it is not necessary to remove the rear brake spring assembly, but that it does make it easier to do. The assembly is really nothing but a spring and a star-wheel expander.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bonfire (Post 1825668)
I noticed that the driver side was really dirty/greasy and the passenger side was not. Anyone know if I should be worried about the bearings or something of that nature??

That is strange.... I have never seen a dirty /greasy rear brake assembly on the cars I have serviced, but it may just have been a sloppy grease job from the factory. Just make sure the inner part of the rear brake drum is NOT contaminated with any grease and there is none on the pads either.


On a side note, a friend came over to have his spacers done a while ago and we encountered an issue with wheel studs. He had bought new wheel studs from a parts store and used spacers from a forum friend. The wheel studs he bought were too long and had a slightly longer 'collar' on them that interfered with the seating of the rotors. The spacers were not going to work without the correct size and length of stud, similar to what H&R ships in the package with the spacers.

Bottom line is: Use the correct stud sizes for these installs! Maybe someone that has an uninstalled set can measure the studs for us and post the correct lengths for people that are having to buy them separately.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bonfire (Post 1825668)
Wheee, thanks for the write up. It was a huge help.... also gave me a reason to buy an impact wrench, I would have been cussing myself had I not.

Definitely an excellent idea to have the impact wrench! And you're welcome
for the write-up! I enjoyed doing it.

LinPark 07-18-2012 07:16 AM

Wow, I feel really lucky then because I did all 4 tires without an impact wrench and nothing has gone flying off the car yet. LOL

scruffydog 04-13-2013 09:52 PM

Has anyone here aside from Rusty have done a rear ARP stud replacement? I believe they're 28 mm and this method doesn't work as the new stud cannot be inserted behind the hub assembly. Any help would be great. I'm having trouble removing the rear hub due to the 17mm socket is interfering with the CV Joint drum.

SurfDog 09-17-2013 11:22 PM

subd. thanks!

wheee! 09-18-2013 07:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scruffydog (Post 2266047)
Has anyone here aside from Rusty have done a rear ARP stud replacement? I believe they're 28 mm and this method doesn't work as the new stud cannot be inserted behind the hub assembly. Any help would be great. I'm having trouble removing the rear hub due to the 17mm socket is interfering with the CV Joint drum.

Sorry, I have not seen the ARP studs. I know it is tight with the ones supplied in the 20mm kit so I would imagine the bearing hub would have to be removed for that....

Quote:

Originally Posted by SurfDog (Post 2492924)
subd. thanks!

Thanks and good luck!

Thorazine_IM 12-05-2013 06:01 PM

thinking about getting 5 mm spacers all around for my set up. my question is is it absolutely necessary to swap out to longer studs even with just 5 mm spacers? i dont track my car.

wheee! 12-05-2013 06:50 PM

I would think that five mm spacers would work with stock studs, but I may be wrong. It may also depend on the thickness of the wheel material between the lugnuts and the spacer as well. YMMV


Sent from Canadia

rjsf 05-03-2014 08:53 PM

Tried to do this today
 
Ok, total noob at modding here.

I tried to do this mod today, putting 20mm H&Rs on the rear. I started with my rear right wheel. I had no problems with the removal and all, but when I got to the point where I'm putting back the brake assembly, I got stuck - the brake pads came close, leaving only about a 2mm gap, not enough for the whole assembly to fit on the rotor again.

http://i.imgur.com/THRcL2i.jpg

Has anyone run into this issue before, and how did you fix it? Anything I can do to have them move apart? :confused:

rjsf 05-03-2014 09:05 PM

Tried to do this today
 
Figured it out...

kornflake7 06-16-2014 10:11 PM

Not sure what I'm doing wrong I did the fronts no problem and rear
Left no problem but the right rear after finally getting it all back together it sounds as though the pads are rubbing the inside of the rotor how do I adjust it so it's not rubbing anymore? I can't seem to get it lined up again?

wheee! 06-17-2014 07:15 AM

There is a star wheel adjuster that you can access thru the rear brake rotor. Remove the small rubber plug and then tighten the brake shoes up against the inner drum. When they are tight, THEN back them off about 3 or 4 clicks for freedom of movement.
Of course this is all done WITHOUT THE PARK BRAKE ENGAGED...

See step 2 in first post.

kornflake7 06-17-2014 12:41 PM

Ok awesome will try when I get home thanks

AviatorTim 10-15-2014 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheee! (Post 490236)
4) Remove the tensioning spring holding the brake shoes together.

http://www.the370z.com/members/wheee...-tensioner.jpg

Are the small brake pads inside the rotor only used by the emergency brake?

wheee! 10-15-2014 06:01 PM

Yes.


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