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QuickJack Lift System

First dyno pull was 400whp. The boost was 8.4 psi which is lower than expected so I'm in search of a leak. The boost should be around 10 psi. The

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Old 08-08-2016, 05:23 PM   #76 (permalink)
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First dyno pull was 400whp. The boost was 8.4 psi which is lower than expected so I'm in search of a leak. The boost should be around 10 psi. The car is still a beast.

Now that the car is fast I needed to slow it down as well. I used my QJ this weekend to install the Akebono sport brakes. They sure look good with the red calipers!

I can now setup the QJ from a stored location in about 5-7 minutes. It really is a Quick Jack!
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Old 02-07-2017, 11:39 PM   #77 (permalink)
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I know this is reviving an old thread, but does anyone have photos of exactly where you place the blocks on the Quickjack? Meaning, where do they contact under the car?
Mine is on its way and I wanted to pre-plan.

I'm always leary when jacking up the car since I've managed to drop it off of jack stands twice.
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Old 02-08-2017, 06:59 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Anyone? Helloooooo!
Everybody join in and "row, row..."
Sorry. Long day.
Help out a middle-aged fat guy. It'll make you feel better.
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Old 02-08-2017, 08:52 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Read owners manual for jack points. Pop up pictures in there too.
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Old 02-08-2017, 08:54 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Those points aren't particularly applicable for the Quickjack, but thanks for the atttempt.
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:25 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Hello, did anyone here get the QJ 5000 model? Curious if the length worked out ok.
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Old 04-10-2017, 12:14 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TreeSemdyZee View Post
Those points aren't particularly applicable for the Quickjack, but thanks for the atttempt.
Yes, they are exactly where the rubber blocks will go. It is important that the jacks are used on the correct side of the car so that the lock arm can be reached. I have labeled my jacks left and right and also put an arrow showing which direction they should go. Look at the picture of my car on the QJ. The car should move forward during the lift.

I place the jacks about one inch BEHIND each front wheel. Place the front rubber block as far forward as it will go. It should be where the notches are for the front lift point. The rear blocks are about midway in the tray to line up with the rear jacking point. Lift QJ up a little and make sure the rubber blocks are centered on the pinch weld and then go on up.

After a couple of lifts you will get the hang of it.
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Old 04-10-2017, 01:04 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Yep. Had mine up in the air all day yesterday. New brake calipers and stainless lines. I love 'em.
Proper bleeding is definitely a must I found out.


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Old 07-08-2017, 11:34 AM   #84 (permalink)
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Quick Jack to the rescue for my 1977 Fiat Spider. I'm doing a bunch of maintenance on it including rebuilding the carbs (dual Webers), a valve adjustment, new brake fluid, new coolant and a general going over.

I'm the third owner of this car so it has been well taken care of all of its life. At 80K miles I did a complete restoration of all of the drivetrain, interior and suspension. That was now 17 years ago......... She is still holding up well and only has 95K miles total on her so about 15K miles since the rebuild.

Both cars get about the same reaction when I take them out.
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:35 AM   #85 (permalink)
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Nice this would help a lot when working on the Z. Would there be any issues if the ground it's on has just a slight downhill slope?
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Old 07-17-2017, 11:45 AM   #86 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Nice this would help a lot when working on the Z. Would there be any issues if the ground it's on has just a slight downhill slope?
Depends on "how slight" you mean. It would need to be very little. You still have a car over 3,300 pounds over your head.
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