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Please look at my alignment settings

I'm only confused on toe -- too much toe in the rear can make the car handle unpredictably; but if "thrust angle" is the effective toe, the rest looks okay.

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Old 04-04-2014, 02:25 PM   #1 (permalink)
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I'm only confused on toe -- too much toe in the rear can make the car handle unpredictably; but if "thrust angle" is the effective toe, the rest looks okay.

My settings on koni yellows and swift springs are -1.65*camber in front, -2.38* in rear (thanks, in part, to SPC adjustable rear camber arms), and +.1* toe all around, so we actually have very similar settings and my car handles great!
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Jordo! View Post
I'm only confused on toe -- too much toe in the rear can make the car handle unpredictably; but if "thrust angle" is the effective toe, the rest looks okay.

My settings on koni yellows and swift springs are -1.65*camber in front, -2.38* in rear (thanks, in part, to SPC adjustable rear camber arms), and +.1* toe all around, so we actually have very similar settings and my car handles great!
Why does the rear toe confuse you? His numbers or what it means?

Why in the world are you running that much rear camber? You saying SPC is maxed out and you can't go lower?



I just got mine done. Everything factory in the front but swift spec-r springs and the rear is SPL traction links, camber arms and mid links with my lockout toe and camber bolt kit and 65mm by 6" 10k linear swift springs lowered to about 26.18" each side. If I do a corner balance I'll probably have to raise or lower a side then get another alignment.

I don't know how yours feels with so much rear camber and so little front but mine feels great on the street. I still need front arms to even caster out and get more camber. I shot for a little toe-out in the front and a little toe-in in the rear. I love it.

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Old 04-06-2014, 07:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
Why does the rear toe confuse you? His numbers or what it means?

Why in the world are you running that much rear camber? You saying SPC is maxed out and you can't go lower?



I just got mine done. Everything factory in the front but swift spec-r springs and the rear is SPL traction links, camber arms and mid links with my lockout toe and camber bolt kit and 65mm by 6" 10k linear swift springs lowered to about 26.18" each side. If I do a corner balance I'll probably have to raise or lower a side then get another alignment.

I don't know how yours feels with so much rear camber and so little front but mine feels great on the street. I still need front arms to even caster out and get more camber. I shot for a little toe-out in the front and a little toe-in in the rear. I love it.

I was confused on the meaning of toe vs thrust angle.

Turn in grip is excellent -- I was under the impression that more rear camber was desirable relative to front since you can turn the front wheels in, but not the rear.

Notwithstanding my limited comprehension of these matters, the car handles very well and very neutrally.

I was under the impression that caster was rarely tweaked on cars relative to motorbikes -- maybe I'm wrong here?
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
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It all depends on what your goal is. Different alignments meet different goals.

For street and daily you want one thing for track you want something else.

Caster is most definitely adjusted more commonly on track setups. Since you normally will do a bit of toe in on a track setup, the added caster will add a little bit of the turn in sharpness back. Think about how a shopping cart steers-it has a ton of front caster(hence the name of the wheels on the shopping cart).

Again it's all a little subjective, but just like you don't need racing slicks to drive to work, nor would you want to go to the track with a set of $50.00 UTQG 800 Tire Guy Specials, most track cars tend to do a little toe in on the front for high speed stability, then compensate for that by adding caster. The SPL front camber arms can dial in I think up to -8 or -9 caster for this exact reason.

I can definitely see why at speeds <45MPH toe out in the front and little extra rear camber would work well, would really make the car turn on a dime(and easy to fit into small parking spots lol). It would definitely make the car turn in sharper. But I sure as hell wouldn't want to run that at a track on a windy day going 120 MPH+.
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Old 04-14-2014, 09:22 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Sorry for the hijacking but it's on the same subject, i just didn't want to open a new thread yet:

My car is a stock 2010 with 19 inch wheels and original alignment.
I don't wish to change suspension currently but i do want to improve handling.
amount of grip is no problem - the car has tons of it. it's the delivery that annoys me.

1. i'd like better turn-in, but i understand there is not much to do in the front with original suspension. what numbers should i aim for?
2. i'd like some more playfulness in the back but without eating the tires too much in regular driving. is that possible?
3. is there a recommended aftermarket improvement that won't dry my pocket but give me good value for money handling-wise? (don't say tires ;-) )

Thanks

Roni
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Old 04-14-2014, 05:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sronis View Post
Sorry for the hijacking but it's on the same subject, i just didn't want to open a new thread yet:

My car is a stock 2010 with 19 inch wheels and original alignment.
I don't wish to change suspension currently but i do want to improve handling.
amount of grip is no problem - the car has tons of it. it's the delivery that annoys me.

1. i'd like better turn-in, but i understand there is not much to do in the front with original suspension. what numbers should i aim for?
2. i'd like some more playfulness in the back but without eating the tires too much in regular driving. is that possible?
3. is there a recommended aftermarket improvement that won't dry my pocket but give me good value for money handling-wise? (don't say tires ;-) )

Thanks

Roni
1. Zero toe in the front.
2. Rear, Camber -1.75, Toe- Min spec on toe in. Shoot for close to zero.
3. Hotchkis sway bars. Around $400 for a pair.
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Old 04-15-2014, 03:46 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty View Post
1. Zero toe in the front.
2. Rear, Camber -1.75, Toe- Min spec on toe in. Shoot for close to zero.
3. Hotchkis sway bars. Around $400 for a pair.
Excellent! short and to the point.

Regarding sway bars. saw this vid (even has same color as mine :-) )
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugztIcdW2ms
looks very impressive.
Question is: how much more uncomfortable does it make the car? Where i live the roads are terrible and i would not like the car to be worse than it already is...

Thanks

Roni
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