The good: Rear done! The bad: Front rotor rusted.

Arrvaxx · 08-08-2013, 07:27 PM

Any tricks to getting the front rotors off when they are rusted to the hub? I've beat it with a rubber mallet so hard it almost flew out of my hand. I really don't want to have to get a rotor puller...hoping you guys have some tricks.

On the awesome side! The rear Swifts are in and the 20mm spacers are on. The rear looks badass even still up on jacks. >.<

Arrvaxx · 08-08-2013, 08:07 PM

How about if I use a metal mallet on a 2x4? Make my son put on my motorcycle helmet and take a 50' running start?

Cbtech · 08-08-2013, 08:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arrvaxx

How about if I use a metal mallet on a 2x4? Make my son put on my motorcycle helmet and take a 50' running start?

^^ lol 5 pound sledge with a2x4 is a good idea

Sent from my Palm Pilot circa 1997...

10MPlayer · 08-08-2013, 08:56 PM

I just remembered why don't work on cars anymore. Not having the right tools for the job. Thanks for the memories.

10MPlayer · 08-08-2013, 09:03 PM

Seriously though, have you tried some light oil like wd40 and applying some heat with a gas torch? They make a whole array of chemical tools to loosen rust -

Arrvaxx · 08-08-2013, 09:07 PM

I was hoping someone had a 'trick' before I tried chemicals and more brute force. But I will NOT be without my car this weekend.

DEpointfive0 · 08-08-2013, 09:23 PM

If you're replacing them, get a regular hammer and earplugs

MAYBE WD40, but I don't like WD on high heat areas

Arrvaxx · 08-09-2013, 07:20 AM

Ok, 2x4 and a metal hammer worked. Whew. Thanks for the help guys!

Sh0velMan · 08-09-2013, 07:28 AM

Could swear there was a hole that you can screw a bolt in to that forces the rotor off? Could be remembering completely wrong tho.

Glad you got it off

ChrisSlicks · 08-09-2013, 09:11 AM

Yep, only on the OEM rotors though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sh0velMan

Could swear there was a hole that you can screw a bolt in to that forces the rotor off? Could be remembering completely wrong tho.

Glad you got it off

Arrvaxx · 08-09-2013, 09:54 AM

Is that what that bolt is for? >.< How do you use it to take the rotor off? Pull? It was on too tight for that. It took 5 good whacks with the hammer to get it off.

So pumped. I was walking to my other car and looked back at the Z's back end and smiled. Even on jacks the new stance looks hot. Trying to sneak out of work early today so I can finish the front but people keep scheduling meetings! Who the hell schedules meetings on a Friday afternoon in the summer? Who! I'll tell you who...A-HOLES! Haha.

whittier · 08-09-2013, 10:06 AM

Not sure this will help on a 370, but previously I had the same issue on my 350z. I used the info below and this worked. I had tried everything else. It seemed like my rotor was welded to the hub.

1. release your e-brake
2. find a bolt to fit in the threaded hole near the hub on the face of the rotor
3. slowly screw it in and you will see the rotor move a little, if you have two holes on opposite sides switch between sides, screwing until the rotor moves toward you little by little, eventually it will pop and there goes the weasel.

Your basically using the bolt to press the rotor off, against the hub.

Special thanks to NolimitZ32 over at NicoClub..

kenchan · 08-09-2013, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

If you're replacing them, get a regular hammer and earplugs

hell yah, make sure you have earplugs and small sledgehammer. you will temporarily loose hearing.

WAT? waaat?

08-08-2013, 07:27 PM	#1 (permalink)
Arrvaxx A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Whore Island, MN Posts: 1,243 Drives: 40th F.I. Twin Turbo Rep Power: 17	The good: Rear done! The bad: Front rotor rusted. Any tricks to getting the front rotors off when they are rusted to the hub? I've beat it with a rubber mallet so hard it almost flew out of my hand. I really don't want to have to get a rotor puller...hoping you guys have some tricks. On the awesome side! The rear Swifts are in and the 20mm spacers are on. The rear looks badass even still up on jacks. >.< __________________ 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary (#480 born 1/19/2010) Fast Intentions Twin Turbo \| Varis Arising II \| Limited Edition Recaro Sportster \| Tuned by Specialty Z \| 604hp 525 torque @14lbs boost on 100 octane

08-08-2013, 08:07 PM	#2 (permalink)
Arrvaxx A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Whore Island, MN Posts: 1,243 Drives: 40th F.I. Twin Turbo Rep Power: 17	How about if I use a metal mallet on a 2x4? Make my son put on my motorcycle helmet and take a 50' running start? osbornsm likes this. __________________ 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary (#480 born 1/19/2010) Fast Intentions Twin Turbo \| Varis Arising II \| Limited Edition Recaro Sportster \| Tuned by Specialty Z \| 604hp 525 torque @14lbs boost on 100 octane

08-08-2013, 09:07 PM	#6 (permalink)
Arrvaxx A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Whore Island, MN Posts: 1,243 Drives: 40th F.I. Twin Turbo Rep Power: 17	I was hoping someone had a 'trick' before I tried chemicals and more brute force. But I will NOT be without my car this weekend. __________________ 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary (#480 born 1/19/2010) Fast Intentions Twin Turbo \| Varis Arising II \| Limited Edition Recaro Sportster \| Tuned by Specialty Z \| 604hp 525 torque @14lbs boost on 100 octane

08-08-2013, 09:23 PM	#7 (permalink)
DEpointfive0 Premium Member Bitches Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 14,824 Drives: a lot Rep Power: 17151	If you're replacing them, get a regular hammer and earplugs MAYBE WD40, but I don't like WD on high heat areas kenchan likes this. __________________ Do YOU want to know what/where I got my username from? ( Click to show/hide ) NSFW due to language:

08-09-2013, 07:20 AM	#8 (permalink)
Arrvaxx A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Whore Island, MN Posts: 1,243 Drives: 40th F.I. Twin Turbo Rep Power: 17	Ok, 2x4 and a metal hammer worked. Whew. Thanks for the help guys! __________________ 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary (#480 born 1/19/2010) Fast Intentions Twin Turbo \| Varis Arising II \| Limited Edition Recaro Sportster \| Tuned by Specialty Z \| 604hp 525 torque @14lbs boost on 100 octane

08-08-2013, 08:56 PM	#4 (permalink)
10MPlayer Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Sacratomato Posts: 309 Drives: your mama wild. Rep Power: 12	I just remembered why don't work on cars anymore. Not having the right tools for the job. Thanks for the memories.

08-08-2013, 09:03 PM	#5 (permalink)
10MPlayer Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2013 Location: Sacratomato Posts: 309 Drives: your mama wild. Rep Power: 12	Seriously though, have you tried some light oil like wd40 and applying some heat with a gas torch? They make a whole array of chemical tools to loosen rust -

08-09-2013, 07:28 AM	#9 (permalink)
Sh0velMan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Dallas/Ft.Worth Posts: 3,349 Drives: Noisily. Rep Power: 20	Could swear there was a hole that you can screw a bolt in to that forces the rotor off? Could be remembering completely wrong tho. Glad you got it off __________________ Buy My Car! \| Build Thread

08-09-2013, 09:54 AM	#11 (permalink)
Arrvaxx A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Whore Island, MN Posts: 1,243 Drives: 40th F.I. Twin Turbo Rep Power: 17	Is that what that bolt is for? >.< How do you use it to take the rotor off? Pull? It was on too tight for that. It took 5 good whacks with the hammer to get it off. So pumped. I was walking to my other car and looked back at the Z's back end and smiled. Even on jacks the new stance looks hot. Trying to sneak out of work early today so I can finish the front but people keep scheduling meetings! Who the hell schedules meetings on a Friday afternoon in the summer? Who! I'll tell you who...A-HOLES! Haha. __________________ 2010 370Z 40th Anniversary (#480 born 1/19/2010) Fast Intentions Twin Turbo \| Varis Arising II \| Limited Edition Recaro Sportster \| Tuned by Specialty Z \| 604hp 525 torque @14lbs boost on 100 octane Last edited by Arrvaxx; 08-09-2013 at 09:56 AM.

08-09-2013, 10:06 AM	#12 (permalink)
whittier Base Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Whittier Posts: 33 Drives: 2010 370Z Roadster Rep Power: 13	Not sure this will help on a 370, but previously I had the same issue on my 350z. I used the info below and this worked. I had tried everything else. It seemed like my rotor was welded to the hub. 1. release your e-brake 2. find a bolt to fit in the threaded hole near the hub on the face of the rotor 3. slowly screw it in and you will see the rotor move a little, if you have two holes on opposite sides switch between sides, screwing until the rotor moves toward you little by little, eventually it will pop and there goes the weasel. Your basically using the bolt to press the rotor off, against the hub. Special thanks to NolimitZ32 over at NicoClub..

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