Brake Upgrade Recommendation

wstar · 07-08-2013, 07:50 PM

Honestly, the stock Sport brake system on this car is more than anyone needs on any road. You really don't need to upgrade the type of rotors or pads, and certainly not calipers. At 67K miles it's not shocking for the original rotors to be toast, but that doesn't necessarily mean they were substandard for what you're doing.

The biggest impact on the rate at which rotors become "warped" feeling is whether new pads/rotors were properly bedded and broken in, and whether you stand on them at a stop while hot. When you do your hard braking and the brakes heat up, don't then come down to a stop at a red light and sit there with your foot on the floor - the hot rotor is getting cooked on just one side where the pads are, which leads to "warping" (what actually happens is more complicated, but the simple explanation of "warping" works fine for what we're after here). After 10-15 minutes of lighter driving with no hard braking they're back to normal temps.

If you want to do some small easy upgrades to the system:

1) RBF600 brake fluid: better boiling temp protection, and your system undoubtedly needs a full fluid change by now anyways. Unless you were boiling your fluid before (as in, your brakes just stopped working on you), though, you won't notice a difference from "better" fluid. It's a nice insurance policy if you plan to really heat up the brakes hard, though.

2) Stillen's Front Brake Duct kit - to get more airflow to the front rotors, reducing overheating of the whole system, including the rotors.

3) Pads/Rotors: I'd stick with the OEM pads + rotors on the street, they're pretty good. Or if you want a cheap slight upgrade on the rotors, look at the slotted (not drilled!) ones that Z1 sells here for $200/pair: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors

Mostly, your system just needs parts replaced from wear more than it needs upgrades.

BrianMSmith · 07-08-2013, 09:12 PM

Can anyone provide installation instructions for the Stilllen brake cooling kit, I'd like to see what I'm in for with this option?

I found a pair of DBA two piece rotors, 5000XS series, for $288 per rotor. Seems like a good deal for a much improved rotor over OEM.

Thanks for the help.

markthomas69 · 07-16-2013, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Honestly, the stock Sport brake system on this car is more than anyone needs on any road. You really don't need to upgrade the type of rotors or pads, and certainly not calipers. At 67K miles it's not shocking for the original rotors to be toast, but that doesn't necessarily mean they were substandard for what you're doing.

The biggest impact on the rate at which rotors become "warped" feeling is whether new pads/rotors were properly bedded and broken in, and whether you stand on them at a stop while hot. When you do your hard braking and the brakes heat up, don't then come down to a stop at a red light and sit there with your foot on the floor - the hot rotor is getting cooked on just one side where the pads are, which leads to "warping" (what actually happens is more complicated, but the simple explanation of "warping" works fine for what we're after here). After 10-15 minutes of lighter driving with no hard braking they're back to normal temps.

If you want to do some small easy upgrades to the system:

1) RBF600 brake fluid: better boiling temp protection, and your system undoubtedly needs a full fluid change by now anyways. Unless you were boiling your fluid before (as in, your brakes just stopped working on you), though, you won't notice a difference from "better" fluid. It's a nice insurance policy if you plan to really heat up the brakes hard, though.

2) Stillen's Front Brake Duct kit - to get more airflow to the front rotors, reducing overheating of the whole system, including the rotors.

3) Pads/Rotors: I'd stick with the OEM pads + rotors on the street, they're pretty good. Or if you want a cheap slight upgrade on the rotors, look at the slotted (not drilled!) ones that Z1 sells here for $200/pair: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors

Mostly, your system just needs parts replaced from wear more than it needs upgrades.

I am upgrading to the Sport brake kit (coming FedEx tomorrow) I am going to fabricate my own brake cooling kit based on what I have read in this thread.

I will post pics along the way during the install which should happen by the end of this week.

370Zsteve · 07-16-2013, 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markthomas69

I am upgrading to the Sport brake kit (coming FedEx tomorrow) I am going to fabricate my own brake cooling kit based on what I have read in this thread.

I will post pics along the way during the install which should happen by the end of this week.

Did you see Modshack's brake cooling duct DIY on the Forum?

DLSTR · 07-16-2013, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Honestly, the stock Sport brake system on this car is more than anyone needs on any road. You really don't need to upgrade the type of rotors or pads, and certainly not calipers. At 67K miles it's not shocking for the original rotors to be toast, but that doesn't necessarily mean they were substandard for what you're doing.

The biggest impact on the rate at which rotors become "warped" feeling is whether new pads/rotors were properly bedded and broken in, and whether you stand on them at a stop while hot. When you do your hard braking and the brakes heat up, don't then come down to a stop at a red light and sit there with your foot on the floor - the hot rotor is getting cooked on just one side where the pads are, which leads to "warping" (what actually happens is more complicated, but the simple explanation of "warping" works fine for what we're after here). After 10-15 minutes of lighter driving with no hard braking they're back to normal temps.

If you want to do some small easy upgrades to the system:

1) RBF600 brake fluid: better boiling temp protection, and your system undoubtedly needs a full fluid change by now anyways. Unless you were boiling your fluid before (as in, your brakes just stopped working on you), though, you won't notice a difference from "better" fluid. It's a nice insurance policy if you plan to really heat up the brakes hard, though.

2) Stillen's Front Brake Duct kit - to get more airflow to the front rotors, reducing overheating of the whole system, including the rotors.

3) Pads/Rotors: I'd stick with the OEM pads + rotors on the street, they're pretty good. Or if you want a cheap slight upgrade on the rotors, look at the slotted (not drilled!) ones that Z1 sells here for $200/pair: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors

Mostly, your system just needs parts replaced from wear more than it needs upgrades.

Best post here on brakes for this car and the basics about our system. The only real deficiency is cooling as you mentioned!

07-08-2013, 07:50 PM	#1 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3596	Honestly, the stock Sport brake system on this car is more than anyone needs on any road. You really don't need to upgrade the type of rotors or pads, and certainly not calipers. At 67K miles it's not shocking for the original rotors to be toast, but that doesn't necessarily mean they were substandard for what you're doing. The biggest impact on the rate at which rotors become "warped" feeling is whether new pads/rotors were properly bedded and broken in, and whether you stand on them at a stop while hot. When you do your hard braking and the brakes heat up, don't then come down to a stop at a red light and sit there with your foot on the floor - the hot rotor is getting cooked on just one side where the pads are, which leads to "warping" (what actually happens is more complicated, but the simple explanation of "warping" works fine for what we're after here). After 10-15 minutes of lighter driving with no hard braking they're back to normal temps. If you want to do some small easy upgrades to the system: 1) RBF600 brake fluid: better boiling temp protection, and your system undoubtedly needs a full fluid change by now anyways. Unless you were boiling your fluid before (as in, your brakes just stopped working on you), though, you won't notice a difference from "better" fluid. It's a nice insurance policy if you plan to really heat up the brakes hard, though. 2) Stillen's Front Brake Duct kit - to get more airflow to the front rotors, reducing overheating of the whole system, including the rotors. 3) Pads/Rotors: I'd stick with the OEM pads + rotors on the street, they're pretty good. Or if you want a cheap slight upgrade on the rotors, look at the slotted (not drilled!) ones that Z1 sells here for $200/pair: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors Mostly, your system just needs parts replaced from wear more than it needs upgrades. fuct, 370Zsteve, DLSTR and 2 others like this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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07-08-2013, 09:12 PM	#2 (permalink)
BrianMSmith Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: secret Posts: 267 Drives: 370Z, Ducati 748S Rep Power: 17	Can anyone provide installation instructions for the Stilllen brake cooling kit, I'd like to see what I'm in for with this option? I found a pair of DBA two piece rotors, 5000XS series, for $288 per rotor. Seems like a good deal for a much improved rotor over OEM. Thanks for the help.