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Originally Posted by NewYorkJon34 Ok guy, ya I did bed them in properly, I had both the local Nissan techs & a trusted shop where I get my stuff done
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Track Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Virginia
Posts: 564
Drives: 09 RACING HEN
Rep Power: 340 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
I have heard well respected auto mechanics use the term “warped” when diagnosing brake judder. The upside to all of this is that, regardless of what you call it, the solution is basically the same. The rotor needs to be resurfaced. However, if you, with your infinite knowledge gleamed from this site, understands that judder is caused by uneven pad deposits, you can save some money (gasp! That was a long sentence). How you ask? Most rotor resurfacing will cost you from $25 to $50 per rotor. New rotors will cost you $150. 50 sheets of Garnet sandpaper will cost you $25 and allow you to resurface you and your entire families rotors (and look like a hero) for years to come. Caveat. You cannot buy Garnet sandpaper at Lowes or Home Depot. Here is the link. 3M? Paper 110N Sheets Store bought sand paper is aluminum oxide and could make the problem worse. I understand that this goes against a very common belief on this forum. Trust the guys who track our cars. We go through rotors exponentially faster than anyone who drives on the street. And we don’t lathe or trash our rotors every time we get brake judder. And we do get brake judder. I have a poorly fitting set of Porterfield R-4 full race pads if your are interested.
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