I got mine from you best lowered spring I have ever owned on any car I've had.

Thanks:hello:

Photos due out soon.

NP glad to be of service :tiphat:

dang, evy1's getting swiftified...

its what all the kids are doing these days :eekdance:

For anyone interested, post-install, my alignment specs were:

Driver Front:
Camber: -1.4
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.4*

Pass Front:
Camber:-1.5
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.7*

Driver Rear:
Camber: -3.1
Toe: .31

Pass Rear:
Camber: -3.1
Toe: .05*


Only modification I made to the fronts was setting toe to zero for both front tires. Turn in is significantly crisper, and the car is MUCH more responsive. I doubt most dealers will align the car like that, but I HIGHLY recommend it.

I aligned the rear tires to .13* of toe, and -2.6* of camber on both sides.

Somewhat similiar to my set up. My ideal set up for toe is that, although the dealer was reluctant to straighten out the toe to zero. I had my redone and brought the rears out on camber , more like my previuos setup. Althought the toe will have to wait for a redo.

My springs had actully settled again after the first alignmment. Spring install + 260 miles = 1st alignment. Then after 120 miles = 2nd alignment and the adjustments did change in the short period of time. I would suggest to anyone getting Swift springs to drive them about 500 miles before your first alignment. You will save $$.

As I have said previously my ideal setup would be: Fr -1.3 to 1-.5 toe at Zero and Rears at -1.0 to -1.2 and toe at 0.2


Red_Zed,nice setup, into the fun zone. I would be curiuos to what the tires look like after 500 miles with this setup as I am running a bit conservative on the toe.

1-1.2* of camber is far too mild for the rear IMO. I think around 2 would fit well with 1.5* up front.

Not if you are running -1.3 to -1.5 in the fronts. Ideally you want a 0.3 difference from the fronts to the rear with the fronts having MORE negative camber than the rears. IMO.

Yes, you want more camber front than rear, but 1 degree Is far too upright for how the car is setup.

Here is what my Swifts looks like - installed 8 days ago (not too much driving). No alignment yet.

Well, with the limitations of camber on the fronts (non adjustable) the best we could get in negative camber is -1.5 Fr. Therefore to keep the fronts with MORE negative camber the rears would have to be set at no more or less but right at -1.2.

Front Control Arms will open up much more possiblities with adjusting the camber +/-.

speedworks, the wheel tire combo you selected really fill up the wheel well. Stance looks great. :tup: What is your first driving impression? Were you on stock springs prior to Swift?

I haven't driven it yet with the Forgestars, but I did have OEM before the Swifts. My first impressions, are that they are great. You hear on this site that they are better (softer) then OEM on normal driving, but I don't agree with that; I think they are equal or maybe a smidge stiffer then stock. As for aggressive driving, they are definately stiffer, less body roll. I like the overall stance of the vehicle a lot, and the ride is great. Having driven on many different mfgrs of springs over my lifetime (even owned a speed shop for 5 years), I think Swift has a done a great job on developing these springs - especially since they are made for the OEM shocks, which in the long run is more affordable. Even though they cost more out of the box, overall they are cheaper because they don't require new shocks (they should market that!). I think Swift has a home-run here, and you can tell because everyone who is buying just springs is going that way.

I'll chime in and agree with speedworks that I find the ride a tad firmer on the small stuff as well. I expected that, and I am not disappointed. The reduction in body roll is substantial and the overall feel is excellent. Nothing but compliments from the other Z owners in our club and have still not rubbed or scraped over anything!

another stock update: only about 6-7 sets left that aren't presold!!! if you already have a set ignore me :)

Checked my ride height today and it seems the springs have settled some more on the passenger side and it more or less matches the driver side. Current height: 26.625" front, 26.875" rear. That works out to 1.245" drop front, 1.115" drop rear.

Man all I hear is great stuff bout these springs, cant wait to get mine. Lets get this shipment in :)

speedworks, great feedback. I too after the intial placebo effect wore off and have about 600 miles on the Swift springs with new paws felt it to be little stiffer than OEM, but much softer than Eibachs. Body roll, no chance can Eibachs compare to these, they are awesome.

I wish I had those numbers. Maybe I can achieve those numbers after a few hundred more miles and some hard twisties coming up on this weekends run. Or maybe I need a fat passenger to drop the passenger side ride height...haha

Has anyone gone competitive with these springs on yet?

Jon and I just ran the dragon with the swifts. Have to say that I was very pleased with how planted the Z felt, and how well they held up.

I ran into some alignment issues, as well as issues with the base front tires, but the springs were flawless as far as I could tell. Jon might be able to chime in more since his setup seemed to be working well.


Whenever I get home, I have video of his car on the dragon, so you can see how planted it stays.

Please do tell, I am going for my third alignment tomorrow and would like to know what part of your setup is the issue.

I just want more camber up front to match the rear. Couldn't grip enough up front.

That means installing an Upper Control Arm. I also wonder if the 18's contribute to the non grip?

I love seeing canyon run videos, definitely post them up! I was able to get plenty of camber in the front, the car refuses to oversteer now which is so much nicer especially in tighter low speed corners since turn in is sharper. I think the limitations of the base wheels are the smaller tires as they are just not up to task even with the stock suspension. Add sways and springs and they become an even bigger weak link in my opinion, my sport package Rays are a night and day difference.

POST VIDS!!!

I will post up a few actions shots I have at the track and autocross events as well.

:iagree: Read somewhere probably Car & Driver a couple years back that the 18' wheel cannot compare nor keep up with the 19 sport rims. I have been hearing more folks that bought the Base model are now looking for sport rims. Sometimes it does not pay to cut corners.

the 18's don't, but the tires on them certainly do. I have nowhere near enough tire up front to handle these turns.

I know you have already gone for 2 alignments...but you may want to try my set up to give you more front tire grip. That is to back off the rear camber to a difference of 0.3 more postive from what you are running up front.

If I recall you are runnming:

Driver Front:
Camber: -1.4
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.4*

Pass Front:
Camber:-1.5
Toe: xx
Caster: 5.7*


I would suggest running the Rear camber at -1.1 drivers side and -1.2 passenger side.

I don't have enough grip up front. Why would I want to reduce front camber?

My plan is to go with a front camber kit, and I think I'm going to try to run around 2.5* of camber up front. I'm also looking to go with a square setup, which should help dial out understeer as well.

Why do you suggest different camber on each side?

Less on the drivers side because with you in the car, it evens out

I do alignment with me in the car...it's the only way to do it right.

No not the front camber but the rear. Different camber on rears based on non adjustable control arms up front. It makes the rear the 0.3 difference from the front.

So if you have up front (drivers side) -1.4 then the drivers side rear should be 0.3 difference which places it at -1.1. Same would go for the passenger side, whatever the non adjustable front is then minus 0.3 and you get your setting for the rear camber. Therefore no matter what the fronts are reading on camber the rears would be 0.3 difference on both sides on the rear.


As far as the 0.3 degrees difference goes, thats about normal for a front engine rear drive street car. The reason you need more negative camber up front....that's because the car has a front biased weight distribution (as front engine cars usually do). That means that in corners, the front is going to have more inertia than the rear, so it will fight you a bit when you are turning. That means that it will want to understeer slightly. To fight that tendency, we add a little more camber up front than in the rear.

It's only a suggestion as it appears you have a grip on the issue and a sound plan of attack to resolve it. Don't mind my yammering, I am still learning this stuff and I know you have more knowledge and experience.
So as to not throw a monkey wrench into it, I will gracefiully bow out and listen and learn. :tiphat:

Anyone have creaking from the rear springs?

Did you reuse the rubber from the OEM springs?

Yep. For me, it's from the lower spring mount being a bit loose and moving, not from the spring itself. I'll be working on it when I install my rear camber/toe kit in the next week or so.

Now that I have read several posts I would like to thank all of you guinea pigs (I mean that politely = P) because I was going to buy the h&r springs n now I'm placing an order for the swift springs, so much props for your posts!! One other thought for all of you that have the swift springs, which camber and toe kit do you recommend?....

I purchased the Ichiba one from ebay. FYI- from what I've seen the 370 takes the same rear kit as the 350. Strangely enough, people charge more for the "370" arms than the 350.

Whatever, I guess.

As far as the front, you should be fine. I was in spec for both camber and toe post-install. My rear camber was out too far by about a degree. The rear toe is in alignment but the bolts come with the kit, so I guess I'll go ahead and install those while I'm down there (just in case).

I don't think the rear springs have stock rubbers - its just for the McPherson struts in the front...

yup they do... the rubber boots at the bottom of the spring.