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Originally Posted by sportblack13Z Have any of you guys had issues with any wheel hop after installing the springs? I tried to track the car 1/4 mile and had some
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#1 (permalink) | |
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![]() But tires can too. Whats the pressure?
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Better diff bushings will help a lot the pumpkin won't want to rotate as much. I would recommend going a solid poly bushing (Energy, White-line) instead of the aluminium ones.
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I have a 13z with sports package. Shocks and dampers are oem. i started at 25 psi and lowered to 22 psi but couldnt get rid of wheel hop unless i launched very soft. i was thinking maybe i have to ride the clutch more but honestly its been doing it even from a rolling start. Thanks synolimit, what kind do you recommend? Im thinking that and some traction bars might help?
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#6 (permalink) | |
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I have spl and no issues with NVH but install was a nightmare! The solid rear bushing was impossible to get in. I have a spare set of whitelines though.
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13 370z- Last edited by synolimit; 07-17-2014 at 12:39 AM. |
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The thing is that i installed the tires and the springs at the same time so im not sure yet if its a tire issue or the springs or a combination. ive been on the street rolling at like 20mph and taken off aggresively and ill still hop the tires and thats at 35 psi. So yea i just need to figure out what it is. i am a bit nervous about installing the bushings though.
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What are your alignment settings?
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I think im at around -2.4 camber in the rear. I havnt tried 38 psi maybe that will help. As far as the bushings, im just gonna pull the trigger already synolimit. I keep reading about fast i tentions and how they like to add them when they install their turbo kits.
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That's a little rich for rear camber. Most guys shoot for just under -2. Toe settings are what's more important from what I've experienced. Most run a touch toe in, in the back. I run 1/16" total toe in the rear... 1/32" each side. The OEM specs are slight toe out in the rear, which don't seem to work very good after lowering.
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I need camber arms
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