Competitors to KW V3 and who ran Greddy X KW

SPDKING

It's ok man. You have some good advice, I'm sorry I bothered you.

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

k67p67

I'm quite happy with my Powertrix Ultra-Lite coilovers w/Swift 13/11 springs. Great for a daily and I'm confident they'll perform when I finally make it out to the track. Previously had a set of HKS Hipermax Max IV GT but the spring rates were too soft for my liking. I would have considered the Max IV SP but they were not available at the time.

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SOLD2017 370Z Nismo Tech 6MT PART OUT IN PROGRESS
Work | Motordyne | Powertrix | Swift | Michelin | Takeda | Hotchkis | RJM | Voodoo13 | SPL | SPC | Z1 Motorsports | ZSpeed | Morimoto | Craft Square

SPDKING

I actually ordered the HKS Hipermax IV SP Coilovers over the Fortune Auto 500 yesterday. Also ordered SPL Eccentric Lockout Bolts. The spring rates are really high at 14k front 16k rear but the few owners that have them all commented on how the ride quality is so good yet performance is phenomenal in aggressive driving situations because of the high spring rate.

That and the fact they are Japanese is the reason why I went over my budget and out of my way to get them. I would assume the Japanese know how to design things for Japanese cars vs American or German companies. Install posts coming soon when they arrive. This is my last handling upgrade. I'm not sharing my power mods.

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

OptionZero

those spring rates seem odd. stiffer in the rear that front?

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OptionZero Build Thread

SPDKING

That's what I said. A sales person from HKS who I spoke to said the reason for that is because the Japanese racing drivers tend to favor oversteer than understeer, that's why they tuned it to make sure the car will never understeer when coming out of a corner. For city driving, I will probably stiffen the front sway bars for safety reasons. I've never wrapped a car around a pole and don't plan on doing that anytime soon. For Willow Springs and Laguna, I'll switch to run to less stiff sway bar up front unless anyone has any suspension tuning ideas.

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

cv129

I don’t think you can compare the front and rear rates directly since the rear springs are inboard while the fronts are true coil spring over damper (or aka “true type” coilover).

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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

AlWakRa

A friend had those HKS SP, he didn't like them on street. He said they were very bouncy on the rear in street, even stiffer than his viper acr-e, but he was on very short tires (265/35/18-295/30/18) and sat it very low (which should affect the ride quality).

At the track they were nice.

And you need to get SPL FUCA if you don't have them.

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SPDKING

Did he stick with the settings they suggested at first? HKS assured me that as long as I stay with the pre determined range of adjustments I'll be fine. When you go even lower than the height they recommended, your on your own. I did see they designed it for "high grip radial tire" as well so I'm sticking with the tires I have now since they are the stock specs. What exactly is the advantage of the FUCA? I'm not going any lower than .5 of a inch which is what HKS automatically sets the coilover height at right out of the box

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

AlWakRa

He lowered it, he closed the gap between the fenders and tires, because he went with short tires, 25" vs 26.6" , it was very low. I attached the only photos I got for it.



Front upper control arms will give you the ability to change the camber in front, with .5 inch lower, I think it will not be a big change, but you will need it if you want to retain stock alignment or if you needed more negative camber in front for track use, the stock arms are not adjustable.

And I just remembered, you may not need eccentric lockouts at rear if you don't buy rear camber/midlink. It will lock alignment adjustability, at least stock bolts has some adjustability, you can dial it back if you got too much negative camber, but you may face an issue with toe which spc toe bolts could solve it (you will need to make some cutting in subframe)

Everything depends on your alignment after you install the coilovers.

Attached Images

	35534220_2106255093026857_5516150953520136192_n.jpg (241.7 KB, 17 views)
	32313066_616592098689151_2232476914734333952_o.jpg (161.9 KB, 20 views)

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SPDKING

I've read about with coilovers on 370Z's if you do some hard cornering the alignment will move in the rear which is why I got the lockout kit but I didn't care about having to adjust the rear, I just want it to stay in spec alignment. The front upper control arm I didn't know about. I'm going to look into getting them.

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

AlWakRa

It is nice to lock the alignment, but you won't have any adjustability, which means if the alignment got messed, your car handling will not be pleasant.

Naturally, when you lower your car, you will have more negative camber, the 370z rear will get more toe in as well (maybe all cars), if you ended up with too much rear toe in, you will get a slippery rear end with yaw sensor delete, if you didn't do yaw sensor delete, the traction control will hold you back. Also shorter tire life.


The real benefit of eccentric lockout kit is to have your alignment set where you want without slipping IF you have adjustable arms. Not recommended if you don't have arms.


So, to sum up, it is either using oem bolts to adjust (camber - toe), or using eccentric lock with SPL rear camber arms and midlink, if you don't want to spend money on midlink, you can use oem bolt, or spc toe bolt if the stock ones didn't dial the toe back to recommended setting.

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OptionZero

the rears have a small amount of adjustability

the fronts have none

thats why i tell EVERYONE to get the SPL FUCAs

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SPDKING

So the OEM bolt or spc bolt if I don't want to spend the money and the spc camber arms and midlink If I don't mind on doing it right. I'm going to look into both. I know for sure I don't want the increased tire wear or the crazy camber like those stance teenagers.

So essentially I can get away with what I already have or the spc bolts is what your saying? Are you positive the alignment won't get thrown off with aggressive driving with just the OEM bolt or the spc toe bolts?

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

OptionZero

It's SPL
Not SPC

SPC is an entirely different company

Camber doesn't cause increased wear, just uneven wear.
And camber is actually GOOD for handling, within limits

Have u ever been to any race track anywhere? Every car there has negative camber

There are some styles of car tuning that take it to an extreme

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OptionZero Build Thread

AlWakRa

Toe is the real killer for tires.

The car already has nearly -1.5 rear camber in stock form, with minimum drop it may add around 0.5 more negative camber, but the toe will increase as well. The target will be to get stock toe value (around 0.10) which may be achievable with stock toe bolts.

For track, more negative camber will make you use all the tire in turns, so you can get better heat distribution and even wear at track.



So it is either spending the money on SPL goodies or cheap out with the issue of slipping. I personally, tracked my car with SPL camber arm and SPC toe bolt, it was holding the alignment (but I was maxing the setting out).

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