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He lowered it, he closed the gap between the fenders and tires, because he went with short tires, 25" vs 26.6" , it was very low. I attached the only

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Old 05-03-2019, 04:34 PM   #1 (permalink)
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He lowered it, he closed the gap between the fenders and tires, because he went with short tires, 25" vs 26.6" , it was very low. I attached the only photos I got for it.



Front upper control arms will give you the ability to change the camber in front, with .5 inch lower, I think it will not be a big change, but you will need it if you want to retain stock alignment or if you needed more negative camber in front for track use, the stock arms are not adjustable.

And I just remembered, you may not need eccentric lockouts at rear if you don't buy rear camber/midlink. It will lock alignment adjustability, at least stock bolts has some adjustability, you can dial it back if you got too much negative camber, but you may face an issue with toe which spc toe bolts could solve it (you will need to make some cutting in subframe)

Everything depends on your alignment after you install the coilovers.
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Old 05-03-2019, 05:28 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AlWakRa View Post
He lowered it, he closed the gap between the fenders and tires, because he went with short tires, 25" vs 26.6" , it was very low. I attached the only photos I got for it.



Front upper control arms will give you the ability to change the camber in front, with .5 inch lower, I think it will not be a big change, but you will need it if you want to retain stock alignment or if you needed more negative camber in front for track use, the stock arms are not adjustable.

And I just remembered, you may not need eccentric lockouts at rear if you don't buy rear camber/midlink. It will lock alignment adjustability, at least stock bolts has some adjustability, you can dial it back if you got too much negative camber, but you may face an issue with toe which spc toe bolts could solve it (you will need to make some cutting in subframe)

Everything depends on your alignment after you install the coilovers.
I've read about with coilovers on 370Z's if you do some hard cornering the alignment will move in the rear which is why I got the lockout kit but I didn't care about having to adjust the rear, I just want it to stay in spec alignment. The front upper control arm I didn't know about. I'm going to look into getting them.
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Old 05-03-2019, 09:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I've read about with coilovers on 370Z's if you do some hard cornering the alignment will move in the rear which is why I got the lockout kit but I didn't care about having to adjust the rear, I just want it to stay in spec alignment. The front upper control arm I didn't know about. I'm going to look into getting them.
It is nice to lock the alignment, but you won't have any adjustability, which means if the alignment got messed, your car handling will not be pleasant.

Naturally, when you lower your car, you will have more negative camber, the 370z rear will get more toe in as well (maybe all cars), if you ended up with too much rear toe in, you will get a slippery rear end with yaw sensor delete, if you didn't do yaw sensor delete, the traction control will hold you back. Also shorter tire life.


The real benefit of eccentric lockout kit is to have your alignment set where you want without slipping IF you have adjustable arms. Not recommended if you don't have arms.


So, to sum up, it is either using oem bolts to adjust (camber - toe), or using eccentric lock with SPL rear camber arms and midlink, if you don't want to spend money on midlink, you can use oem bolt, or spc toe bolt if the stock ones didn't dial the toe back to recommended setting.
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