Gearing up for SS install. Couple questions.

JustinP

The Goodridge G-Stop SS kit is in the mail, so I'm reading about doing the swap of OEM brake lines to stainless steel.
I've checked out a couple of threads here which are helpful.
Brake Bleeding by AK370z

and This SS install thread.

I wish the SS install still had photos up but I haven't had luck finding another thread of the install w/ pics.

My question is this...I have the Motive Power Bleeder in the mail as well. While I'm replacing the lines....should I have the power bleeder connected? Or not connect the bleeder until I'm ready to start the bleeding process?

Question 2: I've heard of people 'stopping the fluid leak' while replacing the lines to prevent the whole system (specifically ABS) from losing all fluid. Is there a good way to do this?

I'll be replacing the fluid with motul 600...which I'll do after I install the lines.

Anything else I'm missing? (I'm aware of the inner and outer bleeding nipples on the calipers.) Other threads / videos to look at?

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It's been a while since I replaced my stock brake lines with the Goodridge SS lines, but here's what I can recall:

Make sure you have the right Goodridge SS kit. The brake line configuration changed in mid to late 2012. I was initially sent the wrong kit. Check to make sure you have the right kit before you begin.

Use flare nut wrenches when removing and installing the lines. They will prevent the nuts from being rounded. IIRC some of the stock fittings were quite tight. Don't over-torque the new lines or you'll run the risk of stripping the fittings.

Make sure that you route the new lines so that they don't rub against any of the suspension components. At each wheel, move the brake rotor fully inward and outward to ensure that the lines are free from any obstructions.

I didn't worry about the loss of brake fluid when removing the stock lines. I simply placed a catch basin under each line and collected any fluid that drained out and later discarded it. Any air introduced into the system will be removed when the system is bled ... especially if you're using a Motive bleeder. In response to your question, change the lines, make sure all of the fittings are snug, and then bleed the system.

I found the adapter cap that comes with the Motive bleeder was difficult to get on and off of the brake fluid reservoir. It can be quite tricky. I ended up ordering the universal adapter kit, which I find is simple to use and, as the name implies, can be used on any vehicle.

There is a sequence for bleeding the system. It's outlined in the FSM. I think it's passenger rear - driver front - driver rear -passenger front. Apparently, there is also a sequence in terms of the outer and inner bleeder valves ... but I can't remember which one should be bled first. Someone else can chime in. Also, don't over-torque the bleeder valves.

That's about it for now. If I think of anything else, I'll add it later. Trust this helps!

Rusty

To stop the fluid from going every where. I broke the line at the body first. Then stuffed a vacuum hose cap over the end. I started with the RR. After installing the lines. I left the bleeders open on that caliper. Then moved on to the RL. I kept an eye on the RR. When I started to see fluid coming out. I closed the bleeders. After the LR, go to the RF. Then LF. Repeat the open bleeders for each caliper. Saves time on bleeding.

Bleeding sequence I did. Start with the RR inner, RR outer, check fluid level. LR inner, LR outer, check fluid level. RF inner, RF outer, check fluid level. LF inner, LF outer, check fluid level. DON"T LET THE reservoir GO DRY!!! Repeat atleast 3 times. Have a clear hose over the nipple so that you can see if there is any bubbles in the fluid. Bubbles in fluid means air.

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